Sheila's evisceration and birth of an HJ62 -> Tofudebeest
- Thread starter Tofudebeest
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- Thread starter
- #302
Well, she ain't particularly purdy just yet, but with time, Tofu will be ready for showing off. ROTW is quite a ways off...
But, I think I stand a decent chance of getting some free bedliner and Damplifier materials to jump start the cosmetic makeover...
I'm noodling about how I might finagle a set of bumpers and maybe a roof rack.
I may just make 'em myself...
But, I think I stand a decent chance of getting some free bedliner and Damplifier materials to jump start the cosmetic makeover...
I'm noodling about how I might finagle a set of bumpers and maybe a roof rack.
I may just make 'em myself...
- Thread starter
- #303
Marv's got another $100 of mine. The new EDIC relay works precisely as badly as my original one. So, after much thought and consideration, I said:
SCREW THIS EDIC NONSENSE!!!
And so I devised a simple plan.
Behold, the KILL SWITCH...
To the right of the xm receiver. I had a spare hand brake adjust knob, that is it poking through the blank dash switch cover. I'll look for a sexier knob, but for now, it works perfectly. You just push it in to shut the motor down. Passengers will wonder, and so long as I am not sitting at a red light, it will do nothing if they push it.
On another note: I could not figure out why my stereo was not working. Upon close inspection, I realized that the mounting brackets have a little picture of a screw on them that says "8mm max". I peeked in through some of the vents and realized one of my mounting screws was touching a circuit board. I swapped out that screw for a shorter one and PRESTO! TUNES!!!
Glow far L, Kill far R.
New EDIC arm (kill rod), with lovely S curves. As you can see, the rod is static and is spring loaded because the OFF lever is spring loaded. SLICK, huh?
Another closer shot, you can see I used the EDIC arm's ball joint end, and threaded the end of the rod to take that end piece (same for the knob end). Fits like a glove. Please ignore the leaky oil filter and injector diaphragm gasket (it is on the to-do list).
Nice grommet has the rod pass through the firewall just below the brake lines.
Odd thing: Depending on what style knob is on the kill rod, it changes the sound. The rod is a sound conductor and the knob the speaker. Not a rattle, but it is actually transmitting the engine sound. It is subtle, but noticable by me. I think I will place a rubber grommet in the dash switch blank hole to absorb these sounds.
So, I will buy and install a low oil pressure dash light (from the low oil pressure switch) as well as an oil temp and oil pressure gauge. Also an EGT gauge as well as a boost gauge for when I turbo.
My EDIC system is now (or soon to be) TOTALLY OBSOLETE.
_____________
Do you think these shackles will be retarded? Will they change the angle of my driveshaft so much that I will need to cut and turn? Are they just TOO big?
The glow system works well, but the start ups are a bit rough. I discovered that I need my injectors cleaned or rebuilt. With some of the questionable quality biodiesel I've runned through this bitch, I am not surprised. The starter is reliable and strong.
With no floor covering and no exhaust past the down tube, the cabin is a bit noisy, but not as bad as I thought it would be. The turbo, Damplifier Pro, an exhaust and some bedliner on the floor...and she'll be whisper quiet.
Last thing...
I replaced the rear output shaft seal and gasket as well as the speedo gear/cable seal. That is ~90% of the leaks, There is still a small leak coming through the idler shaft hole around the O ring, but I can live with it for now, to avoid having to split the case. I'll put some Lucas in there and see if the leak slows down. Once the fluid level drops about a half-inch, that leak will stop anyhow, unless the gear oil gets swirled around in there so much, fluid level doesn't matter.
TOFU IS BACK ON THE ROAD!
SCREW THIS EDIC NONSENSE!!!
And so I devised a simple plan.
Behold, the KILL SWITCH...
To the right of the xm receiver. I had a spare hand brake adjust knob, that is it poking through the blank dash switch cover. I'll look for a sexier knob, but for now, it works perfectly. You just push it in to shut the motor down. Passengers will wonder, and so long as I am not sitting at a red light, it will do nothing if they push it.
On another note: I could not figure out why my stereo was not working. Upon close inspection, I realized that the mounting brackets have a little picture of a screw on them that says "8mm max". I peeked in through some of the vents and realized one of my mounting screws was touching a circuit board. I swapped out that screw for a shorter one and PRESTO! TUNES!!!
Glow far L, Kill far R.
New EDIC arm (kill rod), with lovely S curves. As you can see, the rod is static and is spring loaded because the OFF lever is spring loaded. SLICK, huh?
Another closer shot, you can see I used the EDIC arm's ball joint end, and threaded the end of the rod to take that end piece (same for the knob end). Fits like a glove. Please ignore the leaky oil filter and injector diaphragm gasket (it is on the to-do list).
Nice grommet has the rod pass through the firewall just below the brake lines.
Odd thing: Depending on what style knob is on the kill rod, it changes the sound. The rod is a sound conductor and the knob the speaker. Not a rattle, but it is actually transmitting the engine sound. It is subtle, but noticable by me. I think I will place a rubber grommet in the dash switch blank hole to absorb these sounds.
So, I will buy and install a low oil pressure dash light (from the low oil pressure switch) as well as an oil temp and oil pressure gauge. Also an EGT gauge as well as a boost gauge for when I turbo.
My EDIC system is now (or soon to be) TOTALLY OBSOLETE.
_____________
Do you think these shackles will be retarded? Will they change the angle of my driveshaft so much that I will need to cut and turn? Are they just TOO big?
The glow system works well, but the start ups are a bit rough. I discovered that I need my injectors cleaned or rebuilt. With some of the questionable quality biodiesel I've runned through this bitch, I am not surprised. The starter is reliable and strong.
With no floor covering and no exhaust past the down tube, the cabin is a bit noisy, but not as bad as I thought it would be. The turbo, Damplifier Pro, an exhaust and some bedliner on the floor...and she'll be whisper quiet.
Last thing...
I replaced the rear output shaft seal and gasket as well as the speedo gear/cable seal. That is ~90% of the leaks, There is still a small leak coming through the idler shaft hole around the O ring, but I can live with it for now, to avoid having to split the case. I'll put some Lucas in there and see if the leak slows down. Once the fluid level drops about a half-inch, that leak will stop anyhow, unless the gear oil gets swirled around in there so much, fluid level doesn't matter.
TOFU IS BACK ON THE ROAD!
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Yes. Trash those shackles. They will make the truck steer like crap (slack side to side), ride rougher than your mom and the truck will follow every every tiny little groove in the highway because the castor will be so off. Not to mention how much fun we will make fun of you.
Nice solution on the cut-off. Occam's razor wins again.
Same xm receiver I have in my rig.
Keep up the good work.
Nice solution on the cut-off. Occam's razor wins again.
Same xm receiver I have in my rig.
Keep up the good work.
- Thread starter
- #305
Maybe I can use those shackles for my bumper fab, or maybe sliders. Good, heavy steel...i'll find a use for them...
Good googly moogly Batman! Those shackles are HUGE! 
Scrap those - find another use for the metal.
Scrap those - find another use for the metal.
- Thread starter
- #308
Hmmm. I wonder if the wrap ends will still fit with the holes so close to the cross bar. I have time to experiment with them...
But good thinking.
But good thinking.
- Thread starter
- #311
About eight inches. I measured them with a special tool. The tool has no measurement marks, but it is about that long.
to the mods.
- Thread starter
- #312
Threw Sheila's 2.5-3" Terrain Tamer lift springs under Tofu with the help of Mel Lowe yesterday. Thanks Bro. What did that take, 3.5, 4 hours?
Reused my U bolts. They were in great shape, the threads were bright and still gold.
Compared to the tired springs under the 62, the lift seems more like 4 inches. But, the shocks were done done, so the ride is sloppy, loose and bouncey (joke withheld).
Anyone have a part number for a decent set of shocks for a 62 with 3" of lift?
Photos to come.
Reused my U bolts. They were in great shape, the threads were bright and still gold.
Compared to the tired springs under the 62, the lift seems more like 4 inches. But, the shocks were done done, so the ride is sloppy, loose and bouncey (joke withheld).
Anyone have a part number for a decent set of shocks for a 62 with 3" of lift?
Photos to come.
- Thread starter
- #313
Boy, how I love Cruiser Karma. Give parts, get parts. Thank you Dynosaur.
- Thread starter
- #315
Yep. A pair. Pro Comps. Low mile. I'm not familiar with them, but whatever they are, the price is oh so right. I'm wondering if I should complete the set with the same units or go with a different make/model and if so, which should go on the front and which the rear...
Pics tonight...
Pics tonight...
- Thread starter
- #316
Appears stinkbug, but is level. The rear wheels are up on a dirt mound about 12" high.
Craftsman magnetic tool tray, fits nicely here.
Note my replacement for the lift gate handle. I had to install it painstakingly with bolts though the threaded nutcerts from inside the panel. I was missing one above the driver's door and used the stock liftgate handle to complete the set in the passenger area.
My only body damage. The vehicle came to me with this minor ding.
And again, this is the current condition of the only ding that happened since I have had the rig. I'll get filled and resprayed...
Craftsman magnetic tool tray, fits nicely here.
Note my replacement for the lift gate handle. I had to install it painstakingly with bolts though the threaded nutcerts from inside the panel. I was missing one above the driver's door and used the stock liftgate handle to complete the set in the passenger area.
My only body damage. The vehicle came to me with this minor ding.
And again, this is the current condition of the only ding that happened since I have had the rig. I'll get filled and resprayed...
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- Thread starter
- #318
That's gear oil slung back from the leaky transfercase. No fuel leak... The leak was severe and the coating it left has not been cleaned yet. Once that known leak is fully fixed, I'll pressure wash the entire undercarriage to give me a clean, blank slate and then see if there are any other minor leaks...
- Thread starter
- #320
I appreciate the kind and generous gesture. I was going to replace them with quick-release pins, actually, at some point. I know they're currently short, but the short-term consequence is that it makes for a sloppier drive and nothing more, right? That and the fact that I have no shocks...
Which part should be horizontal? The part that attaches to the link?
Which part should be horizontal? The part that attaches to the link?