Shackle lift

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Joined
Nov 9, 2010
Threads
6
Messages
13
Location
Willis texas
Has any one ever lifted a fj or a truck or anything for that matter by removeing the shackles and welding blocks to the frame and reinstalling the shackles? I really dont mean for this to be a dumb question, it just seems a bit safer than the 6 inch long shackles that the previous owner of my fj installed. I am guessing that since I can find a picture or procedure anywhere that maybe there is a good reason. Any idea's?
 
Responses should be interesting, since I have been running 2 inch blocks and 2 inch shackles for over 30 yrs with stock springs. Frame is boxed around around the blocks. Some states might frown on frame modifications. Not much different than a MAF spring reversal, except the springs aren't reversed. Spector had a military 40 in there yard in the 70,s with a factory block setup like you discribe.
 
Willis, TX.......is Blair's still open? teeth optional, curlers in the hair mandatory.
 
I can't imagine doing that when you can buy a set of 2" springs, that would probably give you 4" lift over your sagged stockers.

Marvin has blocks welded to the frame for the shackle reversal. Click the "after" thread in my signature.
 
I have seen several pictures of this done on the Internet. I often think about it, but something just does not seem vary safe to me. I also saw someone stacked one frame on top of another for a lift. That would be crazy heavy, it also just did not look right at all.
 
the person who installs it worries me at times...most of the ones that i have seen are normally poor weld jobs...and some were because of rotten rear frame that had been 'so called' fixed...

as with anything....done properly would be fine
 
I can't imagine doing that when you can buy a set of 2" springs, that would probably give you 4" lift over your sagged stockers.

If I were doing it today, I would use the after market springs. But lifted springs for a cruiser were pretty hard to find in 78. Some back yard shop in El cajon CA , rearched springs for that AMC 4 wheel drive (also know as Jeep). I think their name was Rancho. In my old maf catalog, nothing is listed for springs. Could have thrown on some stupid long shackles, but that screws up the steering geometry. So, remanufactered the solid spring perch.
 
If I were doing it today, I would use the after market springs. But lifted springs for a cruiser were pretty hard to find in 78. Some back yard shop in El cajon CA , rearched springs for that AMC 4 wheel drive (also know as Jeep). I think their name was Rancho. In my old maf catalog, nothing is listed for springs. Could have thrown on some stupid long shackles, but that screws up the steering geometry. So, remanufactered the solid spring perch.

Unless you put blocks under the shackles AND the fixed end, then adding blocks screws up the geometry in most of the same ways that long shackles do.
 
Unless you put blocks under the shackles AND the fixed end, then adding blocks screws up the geometry in most of the same ways that long shackles do.

That is why I put in 2 inch blocks between the frame and solid perch (boxed in frame) and 2 inch longer shackles. Every thing was increased by 2 inches.
 
YUP! Blares is still there, but it is called the Willis Supermarket now. Los Pericos is still next door serving up there grande margarita's.
 
I can't imagine doing that when you can buy a set of 2" springs, that would probably give you 4" lift over your sagged stockers.

Marvin has blocks welded to the frame for the shackle reversal. Click the "after" thread in my signature.

I agree with you on that, I am more curious why you never see it than anything. I didn't know if there was some huge safty reason for it, kind of like the unwritten rule of not putting lift blocks under front springs.
 
Go Crazy!!! ;-)
Toyota-Land-Cruiser-Modified.jpg
 
I can't imagine doing that when you can buy a set of 2" springs, that would probably give you 4" lift over your sagged stockers.

Marvin has blocks welded to the frame for the shackle reversal. Click the "after" thread in my signature.

This is an interesting topic to me, as I spend a fair amount of time thinking about suspensions. I have had a few trucks in the shop thru the years that have had this mod done.

When I saw the first one back in 1990, I asked the fellow about it, who's dad had bought the truck new in '72. Like Plowboy, it was done when there just wasn't sheit for options for the cruiser. I scratched my head and generally poo-pooed it at the time, but I didn't forget about it.

The next one was like Johnny C mentions, really a hack job with booger welds that looked very unsafe. To make matters worse, there were TWO 2" blocks stacked ONE ON TOP OF THE OTHER for 4" of lift!:eek: The guy tried to tell me it was 'engineered' because the block closer to the frame was much longer than the one the hanger was attached to, so the stress was more evenly spread out!:bang: All I could do was roll my eyes and walk away: he hadn't actually asked me to work on the truck.

Then about 10 years ago I had a visit from a guy who was building a very different kind of trail rig. He had installed longer boxed tubing like the 4" guy, but only the single 2" tube. I just asked him for his reasons, as there were now multiple companies offering aftermarket lifted leaf springs. His response was that yes, there were multiple options, but that NOTHING FLEXED as well as the stock springs. On this point, I had to agree.

Soooo, a few years ago, I actually did this mod to the back of Ruftoys...kind of. Just the 2" reciever tubes, one on each REAR shackle hanger, with the twin purposes of being able to reset my hangers further forwards for more droop, and to provide a platform for a removable rear slider for the trail instead of the 4+ bumper that sticks out like a back porch when I run Rubicon and Dusy!:eek:

That said, I would like to also add that this is the ONLY position that I would consider this mod for. Caster issues in the front end are far better resolved with a C&T or a custom set of springs from Alcan.

Best

Mark A.
 

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