OEM brother. Not worth having one of the bearings or springs in the tensioner wear out on you. It's enough of a pain in the ass to get to to justify the extra $$$
Serpentine Belt Tensioner Replacement (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter jp213a
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Rolocado,
Appreciate the response. I hear ya. But. The parts are going to be almost $400. I thought someone with experience might chime in. I’ve even read that OEM is Dayco. Just wanting to verify before I make a move. If someone had a good experience with the Dayco fitment I can live with it only lasting 100,000 miles vs 150 since the body will be long gone by then!
Appreciate the response. I hear ya. But. The parts are going to be almost $400. I thought someone with experience might chime in. I’ve even read that OEM is Dayco. Just wanting to verify before I make a move. If someone had a good experience with the Dayco fitment I can live with it only lasting 100,000 miles vs 150 since the body will be long gone by then!
If the tensioner still has good tension and your only issue is the bearing in pulley, just replace the bearing.
Tensioner is wore out. Figured I’d replace idlers at the same time.
www.partsouq.com or Toyota Parts | Toyota Online Parts | Genuine Toyota Parts | Toyota Parts Online are just a few places you can buy OEM from. I saw tensioner for $62.
OEM Idler pulley is best, but aftermarket is fine. I've used Hayden 5021 RockAuto They don't last as long as OEM but good enough for such a easy part to replace.
OEM Idler pulley is best, but aftermarket is fine. I've used Hayden 5021 RockAuto They don't last as long as OEM but good enough for such a easy part to replace.
Didn't we try to find a true equivalent of the Toyota bearing without success? The OE is a double row, and the aftermarket ones are all single row bearings. So, if you want performance and longevity of Toyota, keep buying their pulleys. AT least, they last around 200k miles in my experience. I will be glad, if anybody corrects me.
[ I was looking into National, SKF, Nachi lines and was able to fine one double-row listing in Ukraine, but it wasn't available.]
It is not a high-tech item really.
[ I was looking into National, SKF, Nachi lines and was able to fine one double-row listing in Ukraine, but it wasn't available.]
It is not a high-tech item really.
ranma21
Supporting Vendor
If you like to keep your truck for long run and do expedition trip, always go Genuine OEM or OEM supplier parts. Only Genuine parts keep your truck to be reliable and long lasting as it should. Enough said your choice.
I pay for quality, not the name. If the Toyota part is the best, I will buy it. if you really want the best QA-verified part, procure the OE Lexus part, just be sitting down before you hear the price. They select around 5% of "Toyota Genuine Watever" before it enters the line.
[Just examples]
Continental 4060882 and Gates K060882RPM drive belts served me longer that Toyota Genuine (Mitsuboshi). And both were quiter.
Thermostat made by Toyota trumps anything else.
It all depends, and doing your homework can be fun on top of it.
[Just examples]
Continental 4060882 and Gates K060882RPM drive belts served me longer that Toyota Genuine (Mitsuboshi). And both were quiter.
Thermostat made by Toyota trumps anything else.
It all depends, and doing your homework can be fun on top of it.
These bearings give very early warning 50K, 60K or even 90K miles before failure. So no need to worry about some sudden failure.
I find the OEMs bearings start getting noisy around 60 to 90K miles, earlier if you get them wet. You can take these bearings way past noisy to the point of failure, but I don't recommend it. Besides I like the front of my engine quite, so I replace these bearings often.
Idler bearing, is the one we can't readily get. I have found two sources for exact replacement OEM bearing, but between cost and difficulty in obtaining it's not worth the effort. So OEM pulley/bearing or aftermarket like Hayden as decent second is what I use. Hayden is the same pulley, just different bearing in it, which get noisy around 30K to 50K miles. There was a report of back to back failures of the Hayden in under 5K miles. But I suspect they were installed wrong (easy to do).
Tensioner bearing, is a very common type bearing. I've purchased from NAPA & Advance Auto. Most all parts stores or bearing suppliers have them on hand. They range from $7 to $15 dollars. I replace these very often.
Tensioner, I only buy OEM. This is only when I need the whole tensioner assembly, which includes the pulley. That is a time consuming part to replace and not worth going aftermarket. Additional, it tells us when we need a new belt.
Belt, I only buy OEM.
I find the OEMs bearings start getting noisy around 60 to 90K miles, earlier if you get them wet. You can take these bearings way past noisy to the point of failure, but I don't recommend it. Besides I like the front of my engine quite, so I replace these bearings often.
Idler bearing, is the one we can't readily get. I have found two sources for exact replacement OEM bearing, but between cost and difficulty in obtaining it's not worth the effort. So OEM pulley/bearing or aftermarket like Hayden as decent second is what I use. Hayden is the same pulley, just different bearing in it, which get noisy around 30K to 50K miles. There was a report of back to back failures of the Hayden in under 5K miles. But I suspect they were installed wrong (easy to do).
Tensioner bearing, is a very common type bearing. I've purchased from NAPA & Advance Auto. Most all parts stores or bearing suppliers have them on hand. They range from $7 to $15 dollars. I replace these very often.
Tensioner, I only buy OEM. This is only when I need the whole tensioner assembly, which includes the pulley. That is a time consuming part to replace and not worth going aftermarket. Additional, it tells us when we need a new belt.
Belt, I only buy OEM.
I think I am also having issue with my 2005 LX with 230miles pulley.
My serpentine belt came off the pulley last week and I was able to get this back on as the belt did not have any cracks or damage etc. There are no wobbles etc. with the engine running so I think the belt is ok and everything is aligned.
I am noticing some noise at the belt area lately and thinking maybe it's time for a new tensioner and idler. My mechanic told me to keep a spare belt in the car in case the belt comes off again and gets chewed up. I did notice two different part number for the belts 90916-02585 and 90916-02586. The 90916-02585 is $70 while the 90916-02586 is $40. I read somewhere about the production date being over 10 years old for the 90916-02585 and that's why it's cheaper. Just wondering if anyone is coming across this?
My serpentine belt came off the pulley last week and I was able to get this back on as the belt did not have any cracks or damage etc. There are no wobbles etc. with the engine running so I think the belt is ok and everything is aligned.
I am noticing some noise at the belt area lately and thinking maybe it's time for a new tensioner and idler. My mechanic told me to keep a spare belt in the car in case the belt comes off again and gets chewed up. I did notice two different part number for the belts 90916-02585 and 90916-02586. The 90916-02585 is $70 while the 90916-02586 is $40. I read somewhere about the production date being over 10 years old for the 90916-02585 and that's why it's cheaper. Just wondering if anyone is coming across this?
James Bentley
SILVER Star
I see the break in Prod Date, but has anyone confirmed the belt IS different (longer or wider by a few mm or different rib/groove count)?
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Bando (brand) is OE spec. Same part number for all years 98-2007. 6PK2240
Bando USA Mobile
$17 on Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/Bando-6PK224...ds=6pk2240&dpPl=1&dpID=41d4VhIbnJL&ref=plSrch
Bando USA Mobile
$17 on Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/Bando-6PK224...ds=6pk2240&dpPl=1&dpID=41d4VhIbnJL&ref=plSrch
For the record I just ordered all OEM parts. Haven’t installed them yet but In total for belt tensioner 2 pulleys was 460 plus tax. Hopefully the install goes well. Minimal wrench time on cars.
Can you give a breakdown on this? $460 sounds like double the price I’m seeing...just curious...
What is the part number/spec on that bearing? Thinking of doing this today instead of changing the entire tensioner. I have a timing belt service in the next few months so thinking this is a good fix for the noise in the meantime.
James Bentley
SILVER Star
@Poncherelli For the tensioner, get the whole assembly. The tension spring does lose tension and the entire design has been updated by Toyota. Yes, it is around $60 on Amazon. If you are doing this anyway, then consider doing the idler pulley (another $65 bucks) as well. Mine was grabby with notches and would not turn smoothly. If you plan to do the T-belt in the next few months, I'd just wait and do it all at one time. Someone had video showing what a weak tension spring does = lets pulley flop back and forth. Might be easiest and cheap to pull the belt and check the idler and tensioner to see if one feels worse than the other. Stethoscope or long screwdriver can be helpful in isolating some noises. HTH
There are a number of suppliers for the tensioner pulley bearing. Video above shows just one of those PN #'s. This is one more thread of discussion of both drive belt pulleys Idler Pulley Bearing, Drive belt (AKA Serpentine or fan belt)
A weak tensioner should be replaced, so test it before buying anything. Just by placing a socket with breaker bar wrench on tensioner pulley bolt and turning CCW (left hand thread), just as done to remove belt. You can feel the tensions or lack of while doing that. A new tensioner has a good amount of force to rotate it with a socket wrench.
If tensioner spring is still halve-way decent, just replacing bearing of pulley is fast and cheap.
FSM gives us a test with force of ~22 lb.
A weak tensioner should be replaced, so test it before buying anything. Just by placing a socket with breaker bar wrench on tensioner pulley bolt and turning CCW (left hand thread), just as done to remove belt. You can feel the tensions or lack of while doing that. A new tensioner has a good amount of force to rotate it with a socket wrench.
If tensioner spring is still halve-way decent, just replacing bearing of pulley is fast and cheap.
FSM gives us a test with force of ~22 lb.
Hey guys I’m a bit of an amateur when it comes to working on the hundy but I figured I could handle replacing the tensioner given such detailed instructions by you all. I got the alternator out of the way but the damn tensioner is not coming out. Here are some pics for reference. Any advice is greatly appreciated I’ve definitely hit a wall here.
