6. Remove alternator securing nut and bolt (don’t disconnect electrical connection); 14 mm nut and 14mm bolt, slide alternator forward off stud and let it hang
udublf: I was able to remove the top bolt and just loosen the lower alternator bolt to tilt/pivot the alternator enough to the left to slide in/out the tensioner pulley. I do have a replaced alternator so not sure if that's the reason why I didn't have to remove the whole alternator assembly.
7. Remove passenger side timing belt cover; 3 bolts @ 10mm and 1 nut @ 10mm, release 2 hoses from keeper
8. Remove small center timing belt cover; 2 bolts @ 12mm; it is tricky to work the cover out of the tight space below the cooling water pipe and even trickier to work it back in
9. Remove the serpentine belt tensioner; 2 nuts and 1 bolt at 10mm
10. Assembly is the reverse order except position the center timing belt cover under the cooling water pipe before installing the tensioner
Power Steering Pump Pulley Holding Tool Description (homemade):
Take a piece of steel bar stock 16” long x 1” wide x ¼” thick. Drill a ½” hold in ¾” from one end. Drill a second ½” hole three inches over from the first hole. Insert a 7/16 x 1 ½” or longer bolt in each hole and screw a nut on to each. Run the nuts down to the bar. The two bolt ends fit into the holes in the power steering pump pulley face. Hold the bar stationary while loosening the pulley nut with a 17mm box end wrench. A piece of Unistrut could be substituted for the steel bar
www.unistrut.com
Notes:
1. Tensioner is Part No.16620-0W100; List $71.73; Wholesale $57.38 (the tensioner comes with the pulley as one unit)
2. The new tensioner was made in the USA and the original equipment was
made in Canada by Litens Automotive Group, model 4-121.
3. The new tensioner has a slightly different design, primarily the spring
4. The tensioner was replaced at 139,918 miles.
5. The bearing in the original tensioner pulley was replaced at approximately 125,000 miles (bearing number 6203 by NSK) due to a rough spot. The replacement bearing had a rough spot and a screech at 139,918 miles. The bearing seal was removed and it was dry (no grease).
6. The tensioner spring in the OE tensioner was weak. The pulley was bouncing when the engine was idling, causing the drive belt to chirp. With the new tensioner, the pulley was stable and the chirp was gone.
7. A serpentine belt routing diagram is located on the bottom side of the hood, passenger side
8. Instructions assume a left-hand drive
9. Bolt and nut sizes given are head sizes