Series 200 Brake Rotor Replacement(s) (1 Viewer)

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Shedkept

Shedkept

Joined
May 23, 2017
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My '16 has had pulsing brakes since it had under 10K on it. It's now at 43K and they've all been replaced once.
I gave up on dealing with it due to warranty bs and the fact that they will turn them vs. replacing them. It is tolerable other than the high speed pulsing at interstate speeds. The fact that I cannot make a slow stop without feeling a "hitch" bothers me more.

Looking for the "be-all-end-all" brake rotor/pad setup.

Thanks in advance.
 
Ditto. What he said. Same situation for me. Completely brand new stock 2018 started brake shaking at like 5k miles. Dealer resurfaced and so far so good though another 5k but I imagine its only a matter of time. I'd be happy to replace with better aftermarket rotors and pads I just don't know what route to take. Help a new guy out...
 
FYI if you have a habit of stopping hard from high speeds then sitting with your foot on the brake pretty much any brake system will have trouble dealing with it. Sometimes this is hard to avoid due to traffic patterns in a particular area.

My 200 has glass-smooth brakes despite inch taller than stock tires and me driving it pretty hard. I religiously avoid hard braking then sitting still.. either leave room to roll forward slowly while they are still hot or at the very least put the transmission in neutral and take my foot off the brake if possible when I can’t avoid a hard stop before a stand-still.

That said I have a 13 with smaller front brakes than either of your rigs but in theory this should make mine more prone to the issue.. unless toyota did something to make the larger rotors less robust
 
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I had the same issues as the first two posters- pulsing front brakes at 48K miles. I was going to simply replace the rotors and pads, but with possible towing and mountain roads in the future, I decided to contact Brian Jowett and go big- Jowett's big brake kit! Very happy with this set up, butter smooth but really stops fast when I get on it.

Brian: thanks for researching and putting this brake kit together.
 
2016+ already has the very same big brakes.
 
Improper wheel torque can rotors to warp. Make sure you always torque your wheels to spec.and in the proper sequence.

One of the many reasons I always rotate my wheels myself.
 
DBA T3 Rotors, QFM pads

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The OR rotors are pretty darn good...
I’ve actually been pretty amazed with the longevity if mine. I finally replaced my fronts at 11 years old on my 08...and that was only because I hit metal on a long trip with bad pads and screwed them up (my bad! Always check your pads before a big wheeling trip!)

I installed another set of OE front rotors that a fellow mudder gave me when they upgraded theirs early in their 200’s life. Once turned to scrape off rust from sitting in my garage...they are absolutely great. Avoid cheapo pads, and there is more than enough stopping power.

Pretty impressive considering the weight of my truck...35” tires...and lots of abuse.

Side blathering re brakes—
One thing you DO learn when running heavy & especially with big tires is...down-shifting is super important on long, steep slopes like the 70 into Denver when wheeling in places like Ouray or Moab with long, steep descents.

But anyway— original rotors are surprisingly robust...and inexpensive.
 
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Went with Bosch rotors recently and very pleased.

My OEM rear rotors started causing vibration after about 30k.

It seems this is an issue on the Tundra owners site as well with OEM rotors. Many recommended the Bosch. That’s what I am testing now. Have about 10k on them now. Time will tell...
 
NHouston said:
Went with Bosch rotors recently and very pleased.

My OEM rear rotors started causing vibration after about 30k.
Click to expand...

OEM rotors can easily be turned and recovered at least once. Some will say never do that, but the OE are super thick. My originals were turned a couple mild times and kept going great until my bad pads ate into them.
 
Markuson said:
OEM rotors can easily be turned and recovered at least once. Some will say never do that, but the OE are super thick. My originals were turned a couple mild times and kept going great until my bad pads ate into them.
Click to expand...
Can’t remember my runout when I measured, but it was where if I turned them I didn’t think I would get that much for use out of them. I might could have been wrong.
 
Mine were turned around 65k and new pads installed. Starting vibrating mildly at 75k (about 5 months after I purchased the 200). Tolerated it until about 97k. Bought new rotors and pads from Camelbak Toyota for about $155 using the twpartz coupon. Put on when swapping to winter wheels. Took about an hour for the fronts. Simple install.

Not a big expense to stay OEM. Will have to see how long these last.

I would guess the answer is no, but has anyone had trouble with vibration on the.rear pad/rotors, or just the fronts?
 
bamma said:
Mine were turned around 65k and new pads installed. Starting vibrating mildly at 75k (about 5 months after I purchased the 200). Tolerated it until about 97k. Bought new rotors and pads from Camelbak Toyota for about $155 using the twpartz coupon. Put on when swapping to winter wheels. Took about an hour for the fronts. Simple install.

Not a big expense to stay OEM. Will have to see how long these last.

I would guess the answer is no, but has anyone had trouble with vibration on the.rear pad/rotors, or just the fronts?
Click to expand...

If you abuse your brakes on descents, you can warp anything. Remember to lay off & use downshifts and they’ll last a reeeeally long time.

My 2008 beast is still on **original** REAR rotors. Not even close to needing replacement and no warping.
 
Markuson said:
If you abuse your brakes on descents, you can warp anything. Remember to lay off & use downshifts and they’ll last a reeeeally long time.

My 2008 beast is still on **original** REAR rotors. Not even close to needing replacement and no warping.
Click to expand...

Understood, just wanted to see if anyone had rear warpage.
I think the issue with mine is the prior owner warped the fronts and had them turned which just masked to issue. I properly bedded the new ones and am not heavy on brakes. Never had brake issues with rotors and pads I installed (or cars I bought new). I definitely downshift offroad, but onroad I would rather put more heat in the brakes than the tranny. Brakes are a cheap replacement. I also refuse to turn rotors. It is cheap to do, but for the $120 for a couple new OEM rotors, I always go new, even if I don't have vibration.
 
bamma said:
Understood, just wanted to see if anyone had rear warpage.
I think the issue with mine is the prior owner warped the fronts and had them turned which just masked to issue. I properly bedded the new ones and am not heavy on brakes. Never had brake issues with rotors and pads I installed (or cars I bought new). I definitely downshift offroad, but onroad I would rather put more heat in the brakes than the tranny. Brakes are a cheap replacement. I also refuse to turn rotors. It is cheap to do, but for the $120 for a couple new OEM rotors, I always go new, even if I don't have vibration.
Click to expand...

Ya, rotors are one of the only LC parts that seem reasonably priced.
 
Mogwai said:
What pads are you using?
Click to expand...
Now, hawk lts pads. Was running trd pads and frozen rotors - rotors. some material transferred from the trd pads to the rotor. Caused a pulsation. Spoke with frozen rotors and they replaced my rotors for free. Told me not to use the trd pads with their rotors. I ditched the trd pads and purchased hawk lts pads from them. No issues since. Ill stick with those from now on.
 
Willy beamin said:
Now, hawk lts pads. Was running trd pads and frozen rotors - rotors. some material transferred from the trd pads to the rotor. Caused a pulsation. Spoke with frozen rotors and they replaced my rotors for free. Told me not to use the trd pads with their rotors. I ditched the trd pads and purchased hawk lts pads from them. No issues since. Ill stick with those from now on.
Click to expand...

How are the Hawks compared to the TRD? Dust? Rotor wear? Noise? Initial bite?

My TRD pads with new OE rotors have a significant lip on the rotor after only 15k miles.
 
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