I'm pretty confident I know the input that I'll receive on this but I'm going to put it out there anyway. I'm in need of brakes and rotors. I purchased the vehicle with a Brembo 405mm big brake kit on it. Braking has been great, the only downfall I really had was having to go with 20" wheels for clearance. Replacement cost for pads and rotors is about $2200. They lasted about 78,000 miles. Any other brake setups that you guys are liking right now? How is the Tundra setup? Seems that I could do the whole thing calipers and all for half the cost. Let me know your thoughts. Thanks
Could use some brake input..... (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter coastalaggro
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That quote for pads and rotors sounds extremely high. Look elsewhere. My ISF uses Brembo all around, rotors are about $100 each and a set of pads runs about $500. That less than $1k for a full job. And they only last 15,000 mi! LOL
Are the 405MM's 2 piece ? Racing Brake might have an option on rotors... I went with their 2 piece rotors/ pads/lines on my C63 for under 2k, and it saved roughly 36lbs !
barring that - the Stoptech drilled slotted rotors w/ new lines and EBC pads work really well on my 200..... I recall the OEM calipers are under 200 new so you'd be able to redo everything for well under a grand.....
Any pics of the setup ?
barring that - the Stoptech drilled slotted rotors w/ new lines and EBC pads work really well on my 200..... I recall the OEM calipers are under 200 new so you'd be able to redo everything for well under a grand.....
Any pics of the setup ?
- Thread starter
- #4
That's surprising to hear. When I replaced pads and rotors on my IS-F it ran me about $1800
FinallyGotOne!
SILVER Star
On my IS F I have 50K on my rotors and 25K on the pads. I highly recommend Project Mu pads Project Mu Co., Ltd. - PRODUCTS
TexAZ
NEW???? It's BETTER than new!!!
I did the tundra swap and the brake feel is pretty close to stock.
Light pressure on the brake pedal seems like it isn't doing much, then it finally starts to bite as you increase pedal pressure.
The added performance is instantly noticeable when you need to stop in a hurry, or if you tow anything.
Having upgraded brakes has saved a couple drivers that pulled bone headed moves and wound up sitting in Front of a 7000 lb brick bearing down with 35s clawing and scratching for traction .
If you aren't running oversize tires or tow much and want to go back to stock, I've got the calipers, backing plates and stainless lines sitting in my garage.
Light pressure on the brake pedal seems like it isn't doing much, then it finally starts to bite as you increase pedal pressure.
The added performance is instantly noticeable when you need to stop in a hurry, or if you tow anything.
Having upgraded brakes has saved a couple drivers that pulled bone headed moves and wound up sitting in Front of a 7000 lb brick bearing down with 35s clawing and scratching for traction .
If you aren't running oversize tires or tow much and want to go back to stock, I've got the calipers, backing plates and stainless lines sitting in my garage.
just out of curiosity what is typical wear life of 200 series OEM rotors?
I use the ap racing radi-cal bbk and love them. Although it didnt clear my 20 inch bbs wheels so i had to upgrade to 22 inch wheels.
Curious myself. Anyone have input?
Taco2Cruiser
Crazy American Off Road
I'm at 105,500 miles and have 65% of pad material left and rotors have no runout.
Mine are either original or were replaced at 48k when the vehicle was sold CPO. I have 75k on my vehicle and the front and rear are both around 50% according to my mechanic. So either 50k or 150k
I think the issues mentioned earlier on and elsewhere with the brake system response (slow to start then wham, full stop) is a characteristic of the master cylinder more than that of rotors and pads. Although semi-metallic pads will offer more bite than the OEM ceramic.
Taco2Cruiser
Crazy American Off Road
Life of everything truck related is really dependent on the driver.
I remember long ago when I was working on a guys clutch from 400k of towing, mentioning how towing is tough on trucks. He told me he’s never replaced the brakes, he just uses the transmission gears for engine braking.
I remember long ago when I was working on a guys clutch from 400k of towing, mentioning how towing is tough on trucks. He told me he’s never replaced the brakes, he just uses the transmission gears for engine braking.
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I have ~25,000 miles on my '17 and it feels like the front rotors are starting to warp (steering wheel starting to give light shake during braking). I know it all depends on driving habits, conditions, etc. but I drive a lot of highway and feel that this is a little premature. From other responses it sounds like they are getting better results from the OEM rotors. I would of thought I could get more mileage out of them....
Taco2Cruiser
Crazy American Off Road
That is upsetting. I will say between my ‘11 and my parents ‘18, they both brake with the same force and stopping distance.
But... the ‘18 has a much harder bite earlier on. I wonder if that has something to do with it?
indycole
GOLD Star
My brake evolution and comments...
Stock rotors and pads => no complaints (truck was much lighter in those days) but the rotors and pads needed service within 15k
Stock rotors and TRD pads => good performance but the TRD pads were noisy
Stock rotors and terrain tamer pads => better performance though the TT pads were a little noisy (not as much as TRDs) and create a lot of brake dust (not a huge deal to me, though)
Terrain tamer rotors and terrain tamer pads => best performance but still had some minor noise (to be expected with performance pads) but also a weird high-pitched squeal that led me to swap in OEM pads (more on this below)
Terrain tamer rotors and stock pads => current setup which seems to be a solid combination but I don't have as many miles on it yet
Regarding the terrain tamer pads and the squeal I mentioned, I'm likely to try out the TT pads again when the opportunity arises. The performance with a heavy truck was great but the high pitched noise was a problem that seemed to be correct by swapping pads. I'm not sure if there was something unique about the TT pads as I just haven't had enough time to try out new TT pads yet.
Stock rotors and pads => no complaints (truck was much lighter in those days) but the rotors and pads needed service within 15k
Stock rotors and TRD pads => good performance but the TRD pads were noisy
Stock rotors and terrain tamer pads => better performance though the TT pads were a little noisy (not as much as TRDs) and create a lot of brake dust (not a huge deal to me, though)
Terrain tamer rotors and terrain tamer pads => best performance but still had some minor noise (to be expected with performance pads) but also a weird high-pitched squeal that led me to swap in OEM pads (more on this below)
Terrain tamer rotors and stock pads => current setup which seems to be a solid combination but I don't have as many miles on it yet
Regarding the terrain tamer pads and the squeal I mentioned, I'm likely to try out the TT pads again when the opportunity arises. The performance with a heavy truck was great but the high pitched noise was a problem that seemed to be correct by swapping pads. I'm not sure if there was something unique about the TT pads as I just haven't had enough time to try out new TT pads yet.
It is premature. Bring it to the dealer, they will resurface the rotors under warranty.
Ain’t that the truth
Honestly, I would just keep what you have.
I have a Tundra and feel like the brakes are too soft.
I like the bite of the performance brakes on a performance car or whatever.
Not to offend anyone but from what I know manufacture Brembos that come with cars from the dealership are not the same as production Brembos.
Am I wrong on this? So if you have aftermarket Brembos they are worth the money all the way around.
bloc
SILVER Star
It's technically in the context of track cars but does transfer over to any vehicle that is properly maintained.. GREAT read for anyone dealing with "warped" rotors: -Warped- Brake Disc and Other Myths
