LC200 LX570 brake rotor replacement time - go OEM, tundra, or aftermarket? (1 Viewer)

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I've got 50k miles on my 2013 LX570. It's time for a brake pad change. Since I've developed shuddering while braking. I think it would be worthwhile to just change the rotors.


what did you guys do? go the oem route? The tundra upgrade seems a bit much.

LMK what you think
 
I've got 50k miles on my 2013 LX570. It's time for a brake pad change. Since I've developed shuddering while braking. I think it would be worthwhile to just change the rotors.


what did you guys do? go the oem route? The tundra upgrade seems a bit much.

LMK what you think

You should be able to just have the rotors turned. No need to replace them if you haven't turned them at least once or twice.

I just had my original rotors turned at 77k, and they are perfect now. Strong...no pulsing...no problem heating them up on mountain roads/downhill.
 
I would stick to your initial plan and change them due to the pulsation/excessive runout. They will most likely have to take out too much and the rotor will be below minimum specs.

And you can't go wrong with oem parts in most cases.
 
I had 60k on my 2013 Cruiser and had warped rotors also, for 150 bucks you can get 2 brand new Toyota rotors, money well spent, problem solved...
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On my 100 series, I noticed a huge difference when I went drilled slotted Power Stop Rotors.

I think you can still machine them with no issues. Normally you can get a couple of machine cycles out of a Rotor. If they are too warped, the shop should let you know. This would be the inexpensive route along with new Pads
 
I highly doubt your rotors are warped, unless you've been taking your truck to the track. Most likely some of the pad material has fused to the rotors. Turning them should remove the excess material. Either way as soon as the pads are replaced make sure they get broken in correctly or the problem will reoccur

-Warped- Brake Disc and Other Myths
 
Yeah, at 50k miles you should be able to turn them at least once. The rotors Toyota uses for the LC are so much better than most other "average" vehicles out there. I just replaced my pads at 38k miles and the rotor was almost like new...and I'm tough on brakes.
 
Using a on-the-car brake lathe to machine the rotors is the route I would go. It gets them perfectly straight. I believe rotors are less prone to warping if machined this way. Lexus and Toyota rotors can be machined quite a bit unless you have a F sport brake system from one of their sports cars, those cannot be machined. 50k miles is about right for such a large vehicle for the front brakes to need changed. Some go through them sooner if a lot of mountain driving is the case. If you are from one of the road salt regions, then likely you have stuck sliders too.
 
so, I bought everything. OEM front and rear rotors, OEM front and rear pads for $377 shipped. After I clicked on the buy button, I realized I really don't need to replace the rear rotors. too bad, because shipping them back will defeat the purpose of a good deal.
 
Did you buy from one of our Mud vendors who give us a real good discount, 20-25%?
 
so, I bought everything. OEM front and rear rotors, OEM front and rear pads for $377 shipped. After I clicked on the buy button, I realized I really don't need to replace the rear rotors. too bad, because shipping them back will defeat the purpose of a good deal.

So throw em in a drawer and you're covered when they finally need it. ;)

Same here though... Just had my front rotors turned, but the rears were fine. I'll replace the fronts next go round, but they were fine still at 77k.
 
so, I just replaced all 4 rotors and pads this morning. seemed easy enough, except parking brake not as strong now.

when I removed the rear rotors I didn't bother to "flick" down the "star" wheel for the parking brake and the rotor moved freely when suv was in neutral before I took the original rotor off. so I thought I was safe. anyway, should I bother to pull off the wheel again or adjust the parking brake via the center console?
 
so, I bought everything. OEM front and rear rotors, OEM front and rear pads for $377 shipped. After I clicked on the buy button, I realized I really don't need to replace the rear rotors. too bad, because shipping them back will defeat the purpose of a good deal.


Where did you order the OEM rotors and pads from?

thanks
 
I did StopTech Stage 3 slotted rotors (front) and pads this last weekend on my '14. Love them - super quiet and they bite really well.

My OEM rotors had a shudder and the pads were nearly gone at 25k. The whole kit was $230'ish and took about an hour.
 
Did you buy from one of our Mud vendors who give us a real good discount, 20-25%?
Romer, Which Mud vendors for brakes? And how does one get the discount? Thx.

OP, where did you purchase your replacement OEM parts ?
 
I've gone through enough brake threads here that my brain is close to exploding. After a lot of searching, I'm thinking of Hawk Pads Direct "Superduty" pads, and their drilled / slotted / plated rotors. Total with shipping around $650...I'd like budget to be < $750...you know how that goes. ;)

Comments from users or suggestions for alternatives would be appreciated. I'd definitely like a shorter stopping distance than OEM, and 3/4 of mileage is in the mountains. Rear pads are due for replacement, along with adjustment of parking brake shoes and general cleanup. Fronts probably have another 20K or so left.

Thanks

Steve
 
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there are two screw holes in the rotor. If you google you can find the bolt size. You run bolts through those two holes and it pushed the rotor off so you can remove
 
@kreiten I can't get the rotor off mine. Do you have to take that round cap at the center of the rotor off before you can remove the rotor itself? I have it all apart but I can't get the rotor off.

The cap doesn’t have to come off. I had to tap mine with a 5lb sledge to break them loose.
 

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