One of these makes a HUGE difference. Amazon product ASIN B0002KO0TA
Series 200 Brake Rotor Replacement(s) (9 Viewers)
- Thread starter Shedkept
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Everyone morning to get out of my neighborhood I have to go down 2 big hills. I usually have to constantly hit the breaks to avoid speeding. Would you guys/gals recommend I switch to 1st/2nd and use engine braking instead?
Just had my front rotors/pads replaced recently with ceramic pads, and the bite has been great. My rears are still original too
It wouldn’t hurt but the truth is at 1st/2nd gear speeds you’re likely to have minuscule wear and heat build-up (the true enemy of brakes). At higher speeds downshifting would have a real value.Everyone morning to get out of my neighborhood I have to go down 2 big hills. I usually have to constantly hit the breaks to avoid speeding. Would you guys/gals recommend I switch to 1st/2nd and use engine braking instead?
Just had my front rotors/pads replaced recently with ceramic pads, and the bite has been great. My rears are still original too
I could argue low RPM with a cold engine (like leaving your neighborhood) is higher priority than trying to avoid low speed braking if your talking overall longevity.
Just my $.02
Markuson
SILVER Star
Everyone morning to get out of my neighborhood I have to go down 2 big hills. I usually have to constantly hit the breaks to avoid speeding. Would you guys/gals recommend I switch to 1st/2nd and use engine braking instead?
Just had my front rotors/pads replaced recently with ceramic pads, and the bite has been great. My rears are still original too
How big are these two big hills?
i-70 into Denver big?
Not familiar with I-70 and Denver.
But steep enough where most cars get stranded near the bottom during snow storms, and big enough that with snow/ice most people are usually too afraid to leave their houses during winter snow storms.
But how long are they? 1/8 mile down or 2mi down?
Markuson
SILVER Star
Simple answer is... Just don’t ride the brakes.
Shift into S mode and use the engine.
It’s a much bigger deal for trucks like mine that are on larger tires and much heavier weight than stock...but anyone can fry their brakes.
There’s nothing complicated about it. By default, the 6 speed transmission starts in 4th gear when you shove the shifter leftward into S mode. Don’t know what the 8-speed defaults to, but probably 4th.
If you attempt to shift too low, it will beep and won’t shift lower than it can handle...so it’s pretty safe to go for it and experiment. Only you know the hill and your speed.....
Meh. Brake parts are cheaper than engine and transmission parts.
Unless you risk overheating your brakes because it is a 5 mile long grade or your rig weighs 7,500 lbs, go ahead and use your brakes.
Unless you risk overheating your brakes because it is a 5 mile long grade or your rig weighs 7,500 lbs, go ahead and use your brakes.
Markuson
SILVER Star
Overheating is real though & if you ride the breaks hard & long enough, they get mushy and suddenly they can fail to stop you.
Saw it in Ouray a few years ago and it's scary. Also experienced it when my 100 was new to me.
Plus, it's no fun driving around on warped rotors... Even if new rotors are cheap, who wants to prematurely wreck stuff?
I went with the power stop kit on amazon! Been very happy with them! The mess on the ground is an underbody coating I sprayed on.
Depends upon the steepness and length of the hill. If he is just going a couple blocks down a steep hill, that’s not going to overheat the brakes.
Markuson
SILVER Star
Breaks are vastly cheaper than transmission. Ceramic has less stopping power than metal. Just use the brakes.Everyone morning to get out of my neighborhood I have to go down 2 big hills. I usually have to constantly hit the breaks to avoid speeding. Would you guys/gals recommend I switch to 1st/2nd and use engine braking instead?
Just had my front rotors/pads replaced recently with ceramic pads, and the bite has been great. My rears are still original too
Am I the only one that finds that pumping the brakes once gives much better pedal feel? Pressing once and waiting for the accumulator to do its magic produces the same effect, but I like to have an actual brake pedal that I can feel.
Or is my accumulator going bad or something else?!
Or is my accumulator going bad or something else?!
IDK if part #’s match (I doubt it) but my ‘07 4Runner and my ‘13 LX are similar with regard to functionality and the pedal feel phenomena you‘re mentioning. What I found is an annual-18mos bleed with good DOT4 fluid makes all the difference and eliminates the need for the first pump or the delay. The pedal remains high & firm even as pad thickness gets into the last 1/3.
I have no idea why but on motorcycles and both Toyota products I’ve had first-hand experience with even the brand of fluid can play into it. I have found of the non-boutique fluids Castrol DOT4 is my favorite. It works noticeably better IMHO (no, I don’t work for BP).
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Markuson
SILVER Star
I don’t think anyone is suggesting using gears to *slow down* in place of brakes.
-Its more about using lower gears to *prevent * excessive speeds from developing in the first place...so that you don’t end up super-heating your brake pads.
Super-heated brake pads are usually truckers end up using those sketchy runaway-truck ramps...because they relied to heavily on brakes (instead of lower gears) to prevent excessive speed on descent. Then they have to ride the brakes...and the brakes fail from heat.
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I second the DBA rotors.
I paired then with the Tundra TRD Pro pads. Love the set up. But, as posted previously in this thread, the TRD break in is just ridiculous.
I've put about 40K on my raybestos s groove with the EBT hybrid pad (rock auto). I kept warping my factory rotors and the brake dust was a real PIA. Just had some maintence done and I still have 10mm up front and 8mm in back. I do a fair amount of mountain driving and I warped the factory rotors one time in under 5K. I'm sure there are other good products, but the factory rotors do not hold up well. One set was stamped with Bosch. Oh, brake fluid is hydroscopic which is why it needs to be flushed. You dont want rust in these high dollar anti lock systems.
Interesting comments on the factory rotors. I always go completely OEM - pads, rotors, and calipers. OEM has always worked for me, driving Cascade and Rocky Mountain roads, often pulling a trailer. I have over 60k on my current set (originals replaced at 91k miles) and am still 4mm front and rear.
