Series 200 Brake Rotor Replacement(s)

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No dust compared to the trd’s. Trd’s are dirty, nature of that beast. No noises either. The bite is great. No different then the trd’s that i can tell. Both bite well. Originally i had oem rotors and trd pads. Warped the rotors so went frozen rotors and a new set of trd pads then the rest Of the story is outlined above.
 
I'm going to try the Bosch, why not. $325 including tax and shipping for new front and rear rotors and pads. OEM wasn't much more though, ~$425+ tax. Whatever... we'll see how it goes!
 
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bloc said:
How are the Hawks compared to the TRD? Dust? Rotor wear? Noise? Initial bite?

My TRD pads with new OE rotors have a significant lip on the rotor after only 15k miles.
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TRD pad break in. I thankfully found a road that was not busy near the dealership. I am not that happy with them.
fullsizeoutput_adf.webp
 
I’ve pretty much eliminated further investment in the
T-oyota
R-aking-in
D-ollars
...line of products...with the fantastic exception of their excellent wheels...i.e. Rock Warriors... :hillbilly:
 
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Anyone know off the top of their head what the torque is for the brake caliper bolts?

Edit: never mind I found a post from taco that says 73-ft pounds.
 
Since this might come up.. rear caliper bracket to axle bolts 70ft-lb, rear caliper to caliper bracket bolts 65ft-lb.
 
What's the trick to get the rear rotors off? There look to be a few places where you could put some set screws in to push the rotor off the hub, is that what they are for? If so, any idea size/pitch?

I assume mine is just seized as the rubber mallet isn't working like it did on the front. Maybe just need a bigger hammer?

Edit: just get 2 M8x1.25 bolts, sooo easy to remove the rotors this way and then you aren't banging around with a big hammer. Everything else was straight forward. You will need to adjust the parking brake as others have said.
 
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Mogwai said:
What's the trick to get the rear rotors off? There look to be a few places where you could put some set screws in to push the rotor off the hub, is that what they are for? If so, any idea size/pitch?

I assume mine is just seized as the rubber mallet isn't working like it did on the front. Maybe just need a bigger hammer?
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Much bigger hammer... I’ll give a healthy whack with the backside of my wood splitting maul. If it’s the rear brakes make sure the p-brake is off.
 
Mogwai said:
What's the trick to get the rear rotors off? There look to be a few places where you could put some set screws in to push the rotor off the hub, is that what they are for? If so, any idea size/pitch?

I assume mine is just seized as the rubber mallet isn't working like it did on the front. Maybe just need a bigger hammer?
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Yes, it is designed to put one or two bolts into the smaller holes. They will press against the hub flange and break the rotor loose. I don't remember exactly, but it is probably something like an M6.
Oh, and yes, be sure to release the parking brake.
 
DirtNap said:
Yes, it is designed to put one or two bolts into the smaller holes. They will press against the hub flange and break the rotor loose. I don't remember exactly, but it is probably something like an M6.
Oh, and yes, be sure to release the parking brake.
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Do you have to release it via the hole where the rubber thing is or just from the inside of the truck?
 
I recently chose the Raybestos "Element3" pads and rotors.
980584FZN
980671FZN
EHT1303H
EHT1304H
I went specifically looking for non-slotted/non-drilled since everything I read said those were no longer necessary with modern pad tech. Solid rotors have more mass to absorb heat and none of the stress concentrations from the holes. Just reporting what I read.

The Raybestos Element Rotors are coated so no rust. Pads are "GG" rated, a notch better than most. They were pretty well priced on Rock Auto.

Only 1,000 or so miles but the feel and performance is good, and I don't notice any dust. Of course I don't know if it would show on my dark gray wheels.

Finally, I went ahead and replaced the parking brake shoes at the same time. Was advised to do so since the new rotor would be slightly different diameter than the outgoing old one due to p-brake wear. IDK if that is really necessary, but my p-brake shoes looked kind of glazed after 130k so I did it anyway
 
Mogwai said:
Do you have to release it via the hole where the rubber thing is or just from the inside of the truck?
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Just the handle inside. Sounds like you are familiar with the rubber plug over the parking brake shoe adjuster. You'll end up diddling around with that soon enough...I found it to be a pain. The FSM has you adjusting the p-brake shoes after reinstalling the calipers and pads. I found it hard to tell whether resistance was from the pads dragging or the shoes. So I adjusted the shoes with the caliper and pads off. Was way easier, and as a bonus my parking brake now actually will hold the truck.

PS. There is a decent video of a Tundra guy adjusting the p-brake, since the overall setup is pretty similar. Key difference is the LC cable adjustment is only inside under the cupholder. The Tundra also has a cable adjuster under the body. So we set the shoe drag with the brake handle released and the cable backed all the way off. Then adjust the cable by tightening the nut under the cupholder until the handle gets hard to pull past about 8 clicks, IIRC
 
DirtNap said:
Just the handle inside. Sounds like you are familiar with the rubber plug over the parking brake shoe adjuster. You'll end up diddling around with that soon enough...I found it to be a pain. The FSM has you adjusting the p-brake shoes after reinstalling the calipers and pads. I found it hard to tell whether resistance was from the pads dragging or the shoes. So I adjusted the shoes with the caliper and pads off. Was way easier, and as a bonus my parking brake now actually will hold the truck.

PS. There is a decent video of a Tundra guy adjusting the p-brake, since the overall setup is pretty similar. Key difference is the LC cable adjustment is only inside under the cupholder. The Tundra also has a cable adjuster under the body. So we set the shoe drag with the brake handle released and the cable backed all the way off. Then adjust the cable by tightening the nut under the cupholder until the handle gets hard to pull past about 8 clicks, IIRC
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Much appreciated!! If you have the FSM pages can you post them up? I'll look for the Tundra vid. Glad I stopped for the night 😆
 
Just checked. The bolt size to press off the rotor is an 8mm, in case you end up digging for them or buying from the Borg.
 
Mogwai said:
Much appreciated!! If you have the FSM pages can you post them up? I'll look for the Tundra vid. Glad I stopped for the night 😆
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Glad to help with one of the few things I can (-:
Will try to get the pages in the morning.
If you remove the p-brake shoes: There is a special place in hell for whichever engineer designed the p-brake spring/pin/retaining cup-washer thingy. Best approach I found was to use Vis-Grips to hold the retaining thingy.
 
I've had my 2017 in twice for the same problem. Second time was just yesterday and the dealer said they called Toyota and my 200 was two of four total times this had ever been reported nationally on the LC200. This thread suggests that BS, unless you guys were just out of warranty and not taking it in.

Anyway, first time run out was out of spec so they turned the rotors. This time it was "slightly off" but not bad enough to warranty. I'm starting to think it's an overboost problem as much as its the rotors. I'm going to see how it feels after the 34's go on. Have read reports of that helping with brake feel.

This commenet perfectly summarizes my main frustration. "The fact that I cannot make a slow stop without feeling a "hitch" bothers me more." Even brake pressure does not smoothly stop the LC. You have to finesse it and reduce/modulate pressure as the vehicle slows in order to stop smoothly, and it doesn't always let you.
 
Slee solved my brake problems. They put on some heat treated Aussie rotors. Yeesh they’re perfect.
 
chiplee said:
I've had my 2017 in twice for the same problem. Second time was just yesterday and the dealer said they called Toyota and my 200 was two of four total times this had ever been reported nationally on the LC200. This thread suggests that BS, unless you guys were just out of warranty and not taking it in.

Anyway, first time run out was out of spec so they turned the rotors. This time it was "slightly off" but not bad enough to warranty. I'm starting to think it's an overboost problem as much as its the rotors. I'm going to see how it feels after the 34's go on. Have read reports of that helping with brake feel.

This commenet perfectly summarizes my main frustration. "The fact that I cannot make a slow stop without feeling a "hitch" bothers me more." Even brake pressure does not smoothly stop the LC. You have to finesse it and reduce/modulate pressure as the vehicle slows in order to stop smoothly, and it doesn't always let you.
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Sounds like different issues than just pads/rotors. I don't know what this "hitch" is, also seems more common the hitch is mentioned from people with newer trucks, maybe a part changed w/ the "bigger" brakes? So far so good with the Bosch, really like them in fact, very even braking at both slow and fast speeds. Only a thousand miles though so who knows...
 
As part of my Fall maintenance project, I'm replacing the rotors/pads with the Power Stop Z36 Truck & Tow product. They are drilled, grooved, and slotted. All 4 rotors/pads delivered via Amazon was about $355. I'll install them next week. Two years ago I replaced the rotors on my prior Subaru Outback 3.6R with a Power Stop product. The difference in braking between the Subaru OEM and the Power Stop was incredible. Of course the LC is a totally different vehicle. My perspective that if the Z36 will perform satisfactorily, due to the low cost (compared to high-end rotors) I'll probably replace them every two years.
 
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