My rear latch broke sooner than expected after picking up the sequoia. It was one of the problems I read about in researching the vehicle so I didnt get too pissed. A few notes from the replacement.
I used a metal replacement. The factory design has a seemingly needless complication of a plastic arm that pushes down on a metal arm that pulls the release cable. The plastic piece is what breaks.
All the youtube vids I watched showed a special tool to reach in through the small opeing where the plastic arm goes into the hatch and pull down on the cable arm. My 80 has a handle on the inside but the Sequoia does not. 2 differences in my application:
1: My piece broke inside and did not leave room to get a tool inside. I cup the remaining plastic nub with some dikes to gain access.
2: No special tool here. A skinny, long screwdriver was used to reach inside, feel for the lever, then lift the driver handle while pulling down on the front to get enough movement to pop the latch.
It looked like this may be the 2nd latch as there were some signs of someone in there before. 2 broken plastic tabs and a stripped screw. Be sure to spend some time removing all the nuts and loosening everything before lifting out the assembly. This includes the lock tumbler bracket, hatch cable, and wire harnesses.
One of the handle mount screws was stripped in the plastic and both were rusty. I had some ss machine screws that were slighly larger and cut them to the right depth. Worked great.
I spent some time with lithium grease and silicone spray lubing up some components while everything was out. The window gears needed sime attention.
Button everything up in reverse. DONT FORGET TO REATTACH THE CABLE. I closed the door when done and went to open it but it wouldnt. A moment of panic started, but then I tried to hit unlock on the remote first. Success! Doh.
That's all. Pretty easy. 10mm socket w/extension and philips screwdriver is all that is needed once the hatch is open. Sorry, no pics as this has been well documented already.
I used a metal replacement. The factory design has a seemingly needless complication of a plastic arm that pushes down on a metal arm that pulls the release cable. The plastic piece is what breaks.
All the youtube vids I watched showed a special tool to reach in through the small opeing where the plastic arm goes into the hatch and pull down on the cable arm. My 80 has a handle on the inside but the Sequoia does not. 2 differences in my application:
1: My piece broke inside and did not leave room to get a tool inside. I cup the remaining plastic nub with some dikes to gain access.
2: No special tool here. A skinny, long screwdriver was used to reach inside, feel for the lever, then lift the driver handle while pulling down on the front to get enough movement to pop the latch.
It looked like this may be the 2nd latch as there were some signs of someone in there before. 2 broken plastic tabs and a stripped screw. Be sure to spend some time removing all the nuts and loosening everything before lifting out the assembly. This includes the lock tumbler bracket, hatch cable, and wire harnesses.
One of the handle mount screws was stripped in the plastic and both were rusty. I had some ss machine screws that were slighly larger and cut them to the right depth. Worked great.
I spent some time with lithium grease and silicone spray lubing up some components while everything was out. The window gears needed sime attention.
Button everything up in reverse. DONT FORGET TO REATTACH THE CABLE. I closed the door when done and went to open it but it wouldnt. A moment of panic started, but then I tried to hit unlock on the remote first. Success! Doh.
That's all. Pretty easy. 10mm socket w/extension and philips screwdriver is all that is needed once the hatch is open. Sorry, no pics as this has been well documented already.
