Separating the rotor from the hub (1 Viewer)

[HemiAlex]

What am I missing? I have a feeling there is corrosion around the studs, so I'm cleaning it in evaporust right now to loosen things up.


Do I need to use the studs to push the hub down by beating them, and then lay the hub against ground to beat the studs out?

 

[red66toy]

Pound, or press, the wheel studs out and the rotor should come off no problem.

 

[Dridge]

If I remember right I got 2 4x4 pieces of wood and put of each side or rotor so it wasn't touching the ground while pounding out the studs with a big hammer. Also pretty sure I remember 2 bolts holding rotor to hub.

 

[Dridge]

Also when installing new studs your going to need a big punch to beat them in with I had to use a 1/2" extension, at the time I didn't have a punch set.

 

[Skniper]

Alex, the wheel studs hold the rotor to the hub...and the two retaining bolts if still there.

The serrations on the studs bite into the hub and lock everything together. All the studs have to be removed to separate the rotor and hub. Hth.

 

[gregnash]

Unless you have a good press or can come up with a way to do it properly I would just bite the bullet and take it to a shop that can take care of the new rotor as well as the wheel bearings for you.

 

[MANUCHAO]

^^^ 2nd this.

 

[Output Shaft]

If at all possible, press the wheel studs in instead of wailing on them w a hammer.

Hammer is fine to pound them out.
Best not reuse wheel studs once they've been pounded out. but guys do....

 

[richxd87]

@HemiAlex i have a 20ton press if you need to use it, lmk.

 

[HemiAlex]

@HemiAlex i have a 20ton press if you need to use it, lmk.

I got stuck today. I bought "front" studs from rockauto months ago along with lug nuts. Those are completely wrong.

Fast forward to being almost done with one side of the truck and I find out the studs are completely wrong. Once I realized the rock auto studs wouldn't work, then I found raybestos at oreillys. that matched the factory stud completely except for the od of the shank before the knurl being too big.

They won't fit like the oem stud.

Now I'm stuck. I may be able to salvage my factory studs but I really don't want to. Need to see where I can get oem wheel studs locally or order online. thankfully @Output Shaft already sent me the part numbers.

I'll knock out the drivers side while I wait for pats.

 

[HemiAlex]

@richxd87 ill let you know. If I can get oem studs I'm pressing them in instead of drawing them in slowly with the impact.

 

[HemiAlex]

Unless you have a good press or can come up with a way to do it properly I would just bite the bullet and take it to a shop that can take care of the new rotor as well as the wheel bearings for you.

Wheel bearing races were a breeze!

I sanded down the old races and used them as an installer tool for the new race. Was easier than I'm used to lol.

 

[Spike Strip]

So the Raybestos studs won't press in?

 

[HemiAlex]

They won't seat by drawing the nut down. I'm going to mic them at work tomorrow to see if they're anywhere near the same dimensions. They may press in if I do this properly.

 

[klinetime574]

Drawing the studs through by tightening the nut isn't advised. I've read that it stretches the thread spacing at the end of the stud. This would lead to premature failure down the line. I used Dorman 610-264 front wheel studs. O'Reillys should have those. Just a little bit shorter than stock studs, but not an issue if you are running stock wheels. I'm running them with my alloy wheels, been many years worry free.

 

[Spike Strip]

I've only used the OE Toyota studs, but I've read a few threads where people have had this issue as even the Raybestos are a couple thousands off. They seemed to work ok if pressed in, and the underside of the rotor properly supported.