Seized parking brake pins

[js47]

I’m sure someone else has had a similar issue so hopefully there is some good beta out there. I’ve been rebuilding the handbrake on my 100 and everything was going smoothly until I attempted removing the old bell cranks. After removing the clips I went to bang out the pins with a hammer, but they are completely seized with rust.

I’ve tried PB blaster, heat, and combining the two, but they just won’t budge. I’ve attached pictures of the pins in question. The first is inside the drum whereas the following two are on the exterior part of the bell crank.

Does anyone have any ideas? I’m looking for something minimally destructive since I think I need to reuse some of these parts....

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Replace them. In addition to normal corrision you're getting a dissimilar metals reaction with the aluminum and steel. Few threads on this very thing, one from me I know in both the 100 and 80 sections.

 

[RND1]

I have to address my parking brake as well. Does Toyota call the bell crank "parking brake control"? Are there 2 on the LC?

Parking Brake for 2003 Toyota Land Cruiser | Ourisman Toyota Parts

toyotaparts.mcgeorgetoyota.com

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Use Partsouq or Toyodiy, they have diagrams.

PARKING BRAKE & CABLE | Toyota LAND CRUISER UZJ100W-GNPEK HDJ101,UZJ100 | Parts Catalogs | PartSouq

If you are looking for PARKING BRAKE & CABLE Parts for Toyota LAND CRUISER UZJ100W-GNPEK HDJ101,UZJ100 then we advise you to pay attention to the range of our spare parts catalog for Toyota!

partsouq.com

 

[RND1]

Just ordered them - thanks @Trunk Monkey!

 

[NewbieOverland]

I’m sure someone else has had a similar issue so hopefully there is some good beta out there. I’ve been rebuilding the handbrake on my 100 and everything was going smoothly until I attempted removing the old bell cranks. After removing the clips I went to bang out the pins with a hammer, but they are completely seized with rust.

I’ve tried PB blaster, heat, and combining the two, but they just won’t budge. I’ve attached pictures of the pins in question. The first is inside the drum whereas the following two are on the exterior part of the bell crank.

Does anyone have any ideas? I’m looking for something minimally destructive since I think I need to reuse some of these parts....

View attachment 2135224View attachment 2135225

 

[NewbieOverland]

I had the same problem with the pin rusted shut. Use the mat pro gas and Torch the hell out of it. It finally broke free. Just remove or move the rubber dust boot off to the side as far as you can.

 

[abuck99]

During re-assembly coat the bell cranks and fill the rubber boots with this stuff- it will help minimize corrosion and won't break down or wash out like lithium grease.

 

[js47]

I think taking the grinder to it is most likely to work, but will require several replacement parts:

1x 46420-60010 (diagram reference 46420, “cable assembly #2”)
2x 90213-04001 (diagram reference 47616A, “parking brake wire”)
2x 47616-60020 (diagram reference 47616B, “washer type c for wire”)
2x 90249-07074 (diagram reference 47616C, “pin for wire”)

(Parts diagrams attached)

I’ll grind along the red line which will permit me to remove the bell crank (albeit with “cable assembly #2” still attached).

I want to be sure I have all the parts I need before I start. Is anyone familiar with what exactly comes with part 46420-60010 “cable assembly #2”? Does it come with all of the new pins and fasteners that will be needed to fully replace all the handbrake components along the rear axle? I already have replacements for the bell cranks as well as everything that lives inside the drums aside from 47616.

 

[NewbieOverland]

Unless you really want to replace it with the new one. Torch the hell out of it will break it free. By far it is the much easier method to get it working again. You really have nothing to lose. Here is the torch from amazon, Lowe’s or homedepot.

 

[js47]

Unless you really want to replace it with the new one. Torch the hell out of it will break it free. By far it is the much easier method to get it working again. You really have nothing to lose. Here is the torch from amazon, Lowe’s or homedepot.

I considered your torch method, but $55 for something that might work doesn‘t seem as appealing as $100 for something that will definitely work. Plus I’ve read there is a very high chance of the turnbuckle breaking when trying to adjust it so I might end up needing to go the 46420 route anyway....

 

[NewbieOverland]

I considered your torch method, but $55 for something that might work doesn‘t seem as appealing as $100 for something that will definitely work. Plus I’ve read there is a very high chance of the turnbuckle breaking when trying to adjust it so I might end up needing to go the 46420 route anyway....

Good luck. Let me know how it turns out. I have yet to do my too.

 

[js47]

@NewbieOverland I’m going to torch it. I’ve been studying the diagrams and it looks like the white cable is actually the main handbrake cable that goes all the way to the handle, which I have very little interest in replacing.... Really hope the torch works. Though I’m going to try it with my MSR camp stove in place of a torch since I already own it.

During re-assembly coat the bell cranks and fill the rubber boots with this stuff- it will help minimize corrosion and won't break down or wash out like lithium grease.

View attachment 2136091

@abuck99 Just got some ceramic grease in the mail today, thanks for the suggestion. Though I went with the purple permatex since that’s what I saw OTRAMM using in his video.

 

[NewbieOverland]

Let me give you a word of confident. I got my broke free with the torch. It took me a few min with the mat pro gas. Spray it with penetrating oil as soon as it brought free. The torch Is a magic wrench if you are planning to work on rusty nut or bolt.

 

[js47]

Ok, I got it apart. After a week of marinating in the PB Blaster, the pin that connects the main wire to the bracket (rightmost pin in last picture I posted) was freely rotating within the bracket holes. The pin was still seized inside the eye at the end of the wire, but some creative vice grip work ended up getting it free. I mangled the bracket in the process but that’s okay since it’s only a $5 part.

I tried my butane torch on it as well but I’m not convinced that did anything other than smoke the PB.

I partially cut the bell crank arm with a dremel as shown in post #9 and then broke it off with vice grips. I left the remaining pin attached (leftmost pin in last picture) since I’m replacing the bracket and bell crank anyway.

 

[js47]

For anyone reading this in the future, I recommend going with abuck99’s suggestion for a silicone grease such as CRC Silaramic or Permatex Silicone Ceramic Extreme (the red stuff not the purple stuff). I’ve also read good things about Sil-Glyde but as far as I can tell it’s only good for 425˚F as opposed to 3000˚F for the other two. I bought the purple Permatex (non-silicone) because that’s what OTRAMM was using in his video but apparently it reacts with rubber (such as the bell crank arm and caliper pin boots). Now I’m using Silaramic.