Seized 1972 F eng after distributor work (1 Viewer)

Dec7140

SILVER Star
Joined
Feb 28, 2016
Messages
30
Location
The Woodlands, Texas (Houston)
There are lots of engines where the distributor runs the oil pump, so they should have been aware of this issue. On many, like the small block Chevy V8, it is hard to be unaware that the distributor has not engaged the oil pump drive because you can’t get the hold down on, but still they should have known.
You are so correct, in fact, the picture shows that the clamp does not have a good hold on the dizzy base.
 

flee

SILVER Star
Joined
May 27, 2020
Messages
184
Location
Chatsworth
I want to weigh in: repair your engine. The rod bearings are easily accessed and may be all you need.
Find out what is causing the clutch problem. If it is oil find out where it is coming from.
 

dlzadl

SILVER Star
Joined
Aug 13, 2012
Messages
383
Location
Akron, OH
First impression, even tho toyota engines are simple, they are complex. I have a 12/68 40 that is as close to original as yours. I blew the engine this summer on my way home from vacation. I decided to upgrade to a "dumbed down 1986 2F". You use all your F parts and other than the valve cover you can't tell it is different. The difference is great, I was so happy to get away from the F tractor motor. It is much quieter and performs well at highway speeds. Definitely an upgrade. Something to consider. Check with the shop and see if they are willing to help you out since they made a mistake.
 

Dec7140

SILVER Star
Joined
Feb 28, 2016
Messages
30
Location
The Woodlands, Texas (Houston)
First impression, even tho toyota engines are simple, they are complex. I have a 12/68 40 that is as close to original as yours. I blew the engine this summer on my way home from vacation. I decided to upgrade to a "dumbed down 1986 2F". You use all your F parts and other than the valve cover you can't tell it is different. The difference is great, I was so happy to get away from the F tractor motor. It is much quieter and performs well at highway speeds. Definitely an upgrade. Something to consider. Check with the shop and see if they are willing to help you out since they made a mistake.
You have provided some valuable information that I will seriously consider. Like you, I sometimes want to take that route as well and just go 2F and 4 speed.
Thank you for your input and good intel.
 

Dec7140

SILVER Star
Joined
Feb 28, 2016
Messages
30
Location
The Woodlands, Texas (Houston)
I want to weigh in: repair your engine. The rod bearings are easily accessed and may be all you need.
Find out what is causing the clutch problem. If it is oil find out where it is coming from.
I am waiting to see what it looks like internally when the shop does a tear down or at least removes the pan and rod end caps to see the journals. Blue=bad if there is any. Hopefully it is just a case of damaged main and rod bearings. Thanks for the information
 

Dec7140

SILVER Star
Joined
Feb 28, 2016
Messages
30
Location
The Woodlands, Texas (Houston)
UPDATE JANUARY 2021

The Toyota dealer of Conroe, Texas has taken a very admirable approach and will be performing a complete engine overhaul. The delay was not there fault but due to the fact that I was hospitalized because of COVID.
Since the engine, tranny, and Tbox will be out, what obvious other things should be done at this time?

1, As stated on my original thread, my clutch sometimes chatters a little disengaging out of 1st gear. I have occasionally heard that changing to a 74 flywheel, disc and plate with the multi prong pressure plate vs the original 72 3 prong plate is an option? Any thoughts on this? If this is the “obvious or preferred“ path I will take it but it is expensive. About $1000 total.
Or, I will as a minimum purchase a complete new clutch kit $300 as well as for $160 a new OEM clutch master and slave with new lines?
2, New U joints for the shafts?
3, Should I take the tranny to a tranny shop and have them inspect and repair as needed? I would like the shaft end seals all changed since it is out and easy.
4, Regarding the 90 weight oil component like the tranny, tbox and diffs, I am seriously considering changing all to synthetic? In fact, the entire car to include the brakes and clutch. NOT the new engine of course as it will have break in oil.
5, The brake master cylinder is about 7 years old and has no leaks. Is is due for replacement?
6, Of course I will have them replace rubber fuel lines and the such.
7, Am I missing any other logical work that should be done at this opportune moment?

Thank you for the input as the work has already started.

Looking forward to driving her again and I will post some pics of this original paint mostly OEM gem!!
 

Steamer

SILVER Star
Joined
Jul 20, 2009
Messages
1,450
Location
Miami, FL
Congrats on your Covid recovery and the soon to be engine recovery.

I believe (but not certain) that the 74 flywheel is heavier and desirable for low rpm crawling. I have a 74 and I believe it’s stepped and needs to be mated with the 3-prong pressure plate which I have. I never have issues with it.
 

flee

SILVER Star
Joined
May 27, 2020
Messages
184
Location
Chatsworth
If the condition warrants it, replace the clutch disk and pressure plate, throwout and pilot bearings and have your flywheel surfaced.
There is a minimum spec for the flywheel thickness after surfacing. If yours will end up too thin then you'll have a reason to upgrade it.

The master and slave are easy to change with the engine in place so there's no compelling reason to renew them now unless they are leaking.

If there are no major leaks from the transmission, just change the input shaft seal and cover gasket. These are cheap and easy to change yourself.
You should know by now where any fluid is leaking from, if any, especially on a rig as clean as yours is!
 
Last edited:
Joined
Jan 17, 2005
Messages
5,471
Location
Southern Colorado
You may find new leaks if you put synthetic oil in that truck (gear oil). All the sealing approaches and technologies used on that vehicle are for dino oil. YMMV, but I had leaks in my '78 when I switched to synthetic.
 

Dec7140

SILVER Star
Joined
Feb 28, 2016
Messages
30
Location
The Woodlands, Texas (Houston)
Congrats on your Covid recovery and the soon to be engine recovery.

I believe (but not certain) that the 74 flywheel is heavier and desirable for low rpm crawling. I have a 74 and I believe it’s stepped and needs to be mated with the 3-prong pressure plate which I have. I never have issues with it.
Thank you for your information and well wishes
 

Dec7140

SILVER Star
Joined
Feb 28, 2016
Messages
30
Location
The Woodlands, Texas (Houston)
If the condition warrants it, replace the clutch disk and pressure plate, throwout and pilot bearings and have your flywheel surfaced.
There is a minimum spec for the flywheel thickness after surfacing. If yours will end up too thin then you'll have a reason to upgrade it.

The master and slave are easy to change with the engine in place so there's no compelling reason to renew them now unless they are leaking.

If there are no major leaks from the transmission, just change the input shaft seal and cover gasket. These are cheap and easy to change yourself.
You should know by now where any fluid is leaking from, if any, especially on a rig as clean as yours is!
I just ordered a clutch kit, Tbox front and rear seals as well as clutch master and slave kit that comes with new lines. The mechanic already had all of this out so ideal time to renew at this opportune moment. A small investment but long term results I will gain.

Oh yes, all new hoses and and I have to either replace my radiator with aftermarket aluminum or try to have my OEM brass overhauled. I prefer OEM overhauled to keep the look.
Thank you for your information.
 

Mtntopper

SILVER Star
Joined
Aug 9, 2020
Messages
125
Location
Vail, CO
You may find new leaks if you put synthetic oil in that truck (gear oil). All the sealing approaches and technologies used on that vehicle are for dino oil. YMMV, but I had leaks in my '78 when I switched to synthetic.

You may find new leaks if you put synthetic oil in that truck (gear oil). All the sealing approaches and technologies used on that vehicle are for dino oil. YMMV, but I had leaks in my '78 when I switched to synthetic.
Correct. I swear I've said that to people a hundred times and gotten in a hundred arguments...whats a couple more? The secret is the gaskets, they need to be compatible with synthetic oil to be successfully used with synthetic oil.
 

Dec7140

SILVER Star
Joined
Feb 28, 2016
Messages
30
Location
The Woodlands, Texas (Houston)
Correct. I swear I've said that to people a hundred times and gotten in a hundred arguments...whats a couple more? The secret is the gaskets, they need to be compatible with synthetic oil to be successfully used with synthetic oil.
I am going with the good old fashion oils on the entire rig except the new clutch and brakes system. Those 2 are going synthetic.
Thank you for your information
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Top Bottom