Good morning to all,
I just had the ignition changed to electronic ignition. As I drove home, I noticed the original 1972 F engine did not sound as smooth as it normally does and the oil pressure was a Zero. Of course, I pulled over and was AAA towed home.
Upon reading some threads, I have established that the oil pump is driven by the distributor (dizzy). The engine is definitely seized and I am at a fork in the road as to what to do in terms of what engine to put in it if this one is not rebuildable do to excessive damage or lack of parts availability. I would prefer having this original engine being rebuilt if reasonably possible.
Based on the pictures I am providing, it looks like the dizzy is not seated all the way in as the clamp wear marks are about 8mm above the top of the clamp. Also the color differences of the old oil that is visible between the clamp and the base of the dizzy is about 8mm or so.
I have many questions as it shocked me to not have oil pressure since it has always been a reliable classic car for our family weekend fun.
1)Can anyone tell me if the dizzy is fully seated into the block/clamp as it should be based on the pictures I am providing?
2)This is the OEM engine in the car with matching numbers but is it worth it at this fork in the road to go with a 2F. The omni present 2F or not 2F question!
3)Are parts available for the rebuild of the OEM 72' F engine and if so, does anyone know where I can source parts like main bearings, rod bearings, pistons and rings and some of the other hard to find parts. I always prefer OEM if available but I am perfectly fine with aftermarket parts if that is what is needed to get the 40 back on the road.
4)Since the eng/tranny will be out: when I let the clutch out in 1st gear, the tranny sometimes is very grabby or jumpy (I am trying to find the right words) as I let the clutch pedal out to get the car moving. It was grabby or chattery before I had the clutch job done but it is now starting to do it again albeit not as bad as with the old clutch. I have an OEM 3 prong clutch and matching pressure plate.
Does anyone know if the newer multi prong (Aug 74‘ and newer I believe) pressure plate, flywheel, fork and matching disc would provide for a smooth clutch.
If I do convert to a newer pressure plate and disc, what other parts besides clutch disc and pressure plate do I need? Is there a different fork, flywheel or bearings, etc?
SO Many questions now that the engine is seized in a car I hope to pass down to our younger boys one day.
I hope some of you that have much more experience than I may have clearer answers to my questions and concerns as I am attempting to make smart long term decisions without major modifications.
Please let me know if there are some wiser or preferable paths I should take in terms of rebuild or complete replacement with a 2F .5F and/or 4 speed.
Thank you all for your expertise and input.
I just had the ignition changed to electronic ignition. As I drove home, I noticed the original 1972 F engine did not sound as smooth as it normally does and the oil pressure was a Zero. Of course, I pulled over and was AAA towed home.
Upon reading some threads, I have established that the oil pump is driven by the distributor (dizzy). The engine is definitely seized and I am at a fork in the road as to what to do in terms of what engine to put in it if this one is not rebuildable do to excessive damage or lack of parts availability. I would prefer having this original engine being rebuilt if reasonably possible.
Based on the pictures I am providing, it looks like the dizzy is not seated all the way in as the clamp wear marks are about 8mm above the top of the clamp. Also the color differences of the old oil that is visible between the clamp and the base of the dizzy is about 8mm or so.
I have many questions as it shocked me to not have oil pressure since it has always been a reliable classic car for our family weekend fun.
1)Can anyone tell me if the dizzy is fully seated into the block/clamp as it should be based on the pictures I am providing?
2)This is the OEM engine in the car with matching numbers but is it worth it at this fork in the road to go with a 2F. The omni present 2F or not 2F question!
3)Are parts available for the rebuild of the OEM 72' F engine and if so, does anyone know where I can source parts like main bearings, rod bearings, pistons and rings and some of the other hard to find parts. I always prefer OEM if available but I am perfectly fine with aftermarket parts if that is what is needed to get the 40 back on the road.
4)Since the eng/tranny will be out: when I let the clutch out in 1st gear, the tranny sometimes is very grabby or jumpy (I am trying to find the right words) as I let the clutch pedal out to get the car moving. It was grabby or chattery before I had the clutch job done but it is now starting to do it again albeit not as bad as with the old clutch. I have an OEM 3 prong clutch and matching pressure plate.
Does anyone know if the newer multi prong (Aug 74‘ and newer I believe) pressure plate, flywheel, fork and matching disc would provide for a smooth clutch.
If I do convert to a newer pressure plate and disc, what other parts besides clutch disc and pressure plate do I need? Is there a different fork, flywheel or bearings, etc?
SO Many questions now that the engine is seized in a car I hope to pass down to our younger boys one day.
I hope some of you that have much more experience than I may have clearer answers to my questions and concerns as I am attempting to make smart long term decisions without major modifications.
Please let me know if there are some wiser or preferable paths I should take in terms of rebuild or complete replacement with a 2F .5F and/or 4 speed.
Thank you all for your expertise and input.