Seized 1972 F eng after distributor work (1 Viewer)

Dec7140

SILVER Star
Joined
Feb 28, 2016
Messages
30
Location
The Woodlands, Texas (Houston)
Good morning to all,

I just had the ignition changed to electronic ignition. As I drove home, I noticed the original 1972 F engine did not sound as smooth as it normally does and the oil pressure was a Zero. Of course, I pulled over and was AAA towed home.
Upon reading some threads, I have established that the oil pump is driven by the distributor (dizzy). The engine is definitely seized and I am at a fork in the road as to what to do in terms of what engine to put in it if this one is not rebuildable do to excessive damage or lack of parts availability. I would prefer having this original engine being rebuilt if reasonably possible.
Based on the pictures I am providing, it looks like the dizzy is not seated all the way in as the clamp wear marks are about 8mm above the top of the clamp. Also the color differences of the old oil that is visible between the clamp and the base of the dizzy is about 8mm or so.
I have many questions as it shocked me to not have oil pressure since it has always been a reliable classic car for our family weekend fun.

1)Can anyone tell me if the dizzy is fully seated into the block/clamp as it should be based on the pictures I am providing?

2)This is the OEM engine in the car with matching numbers but is it worth it at this fork in the road to go with a 2F. The omni present 2F or not 2F question!

3)Are parts available for the rebuild of the OEM 72' F engine and if so, does anyone know where I can source parts like main bearings, rod bearings, pistons and rings and some of the other hard to find parts. I always prefer OEM if available but I am perfectly fine with aftermarket parts if that is what is needed to get the 40 back on the road.

4)Since the eng/tranny will be out: when I let the clutch out in 1st gear, the tranny sometimes is very grabby or jumpy (I am trying to find the right words) as I let the clutch pedal out to get the car moving. It was grabby or chattery before I had the clutch job done but it is now starting to do it again albeit not as bad as with the old clutch. I have an OEM 3 prong clutch and matching pressure plate.
Does anyone know if the newer multi prong (Aug 74‘ and newer I believe) pressure plate, flywheel, fork and matching disc would provide for a smooth clutch.
If I do convert to a newer pressure plate and disc, what other parts besides clutch disc and pressure plate do I need? Is there a different fork, flywheel or bearings, etc?


SO Many questions now that the engine is seized in a car I hope to pass down to our younger boys one day.

I hope some of you that have much more experience than I may have clearer answers to my questions and concerns as I am attempting to make smart long term decisions without major modifications.
Please let me know if there are some wiser or preferable paths I should take in terms of rebuild or complete replacement with a 2F .5F and/or 4 speed.

Thank you all for your expertise and input.

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Joined
Oct 16, 2006
Messages
831
Location
Houston, TX
If the rest of your truck is all original- if it were me, I would definitely want to keep it that way. It looks like a really nice Land Cruiser. The parts are probably available. As for the clutch, migrating to a later model won’t make it work better. Your description sounds like you have oil leaking onto the clutch disk. The seal is usually, and should have, been replaced when the new clutch was done. If the mechanic who did your clutch is the same guy who replaced your distributor, he’s twice demonstrated his incompetence.
 
Joined
Jun 10, 2017
Messages
204
Location
Washington
Rebuild it....Parts’s are available...find a competent machine shop and have at it. If you’ve never done a rebuild yourself....it’s worth the experience.

If you had a shop install the ignition....take them to small claims court...that distributed is not seated....there are enough experts here on Mud that would probably write several letters in your favor just based on the picture....that distributed is defiantly NOT seated in the oil pump.
 
Joined
May 14, 2016
Messages
1,577
Location
Arizona
Agree, that distributor is NOT seated in the slot. A lot of work but keep it original as it is a nice rig. The oil thing is a real deal with these early rigs. I have one as well.
 
Joined
Oct 16, 2006
Messages
831
Location
Houston, TX
That distributor isn’t fully seated into the engine block, or if it is, the shaft is too short to engage the oil pump. In either case the work performed on your truck caused you to have a non functioning oil pump.
 

Dec7140

SILVER Star
Joined
Feb 28, 2016
Messages
30
Location
The Woodlands, Texas (Houston)
It is mostly original and I go out of my way to buy OEM. I do settle for aftermarket as a temporary fix until an OEM part arrives.
The only modification I have done is a Pertronix Electronic Ignition, 4 wheel disc brakes, a weber carb with the OEM air intake. TrollHole had the canvas top made for me and he as always did an outstanding job in the manufacturing as well has his guidance in enlarging the windows for ease of driving visibility for me and our kids.
This 40 has only a minimal amount of very superficial rust under some small parts and according to the local Land Cruiser specialist shop, it is the rig with the least amount of rust they have seen. It lived in Nevada most of it's life until I purchased it 5 years ago and trucked it to TX.
Lastly, the paint according to 2 shops is original so hence, my desire to keep it original and the matching number engine with some safety and reliability upgrades that I am ok with such as the ones stated above.

Thank you all for you input as this helps me make a smart long term decision on what to do with the engine which is the big problem.
Secondly, thanks for the clutch and pressure plate input as I was ready to start my search for a 74 flywheel, disc and plate.

I will attach some pics that shows the slow restoration to OEM. The engine pic is old and has greatly improved since. The picture of the rust is probably the worst spot I found on the rig. The undercarriage is a pic during the rebuild with new seals and hardware along the way. As seen, I reluctantly painted under the tub and between the frame rails satin black. Outside of the frame rails it is the original tan paint.

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Mtntopper

SILVER Star
Joined
Aug 9, 2020
Messages
125
Location
Vail, CO
It is mostly original and I go out of my way to buy OEM. I do settle for aftermarket as a temporary fix until an OEM part arrives.
The only modification I have done is a Pertronix Electronic Ignition, 4 wheel disc brakes, a weber carb with the OEM air intake. TrollHole had the canvas top made for me and he as always did an outstanding job in the manufacturing as well has his guidance in enlarging the windows for ease of driving visibility for me and our kids.
This 40 has only a minimal amount of very superficial rust under some small parts and according to the local Land Cruiser specialist shop, it is the rig with the least amount of rust they have seen. It lived in Nevada most of it's life until I purchased it 5 years ago and trucked it to TX.
Lastly, the paint according to 2 shops is original so hence, my desire to keep it original and the matching number engine with some safety and reliability upgrades that I am ok with such as the ones stated above.

Thank you all for you input as this helps me make a smart long term decision on what to do with the engine which is the big problem.
Secondly, thanks for the clutch and pressure plate input as I was ready to start my search for a 74 flywheel, disc and plate.

I will attach some pics that shows the slow restoration to OEM. The engine pic is old and has greatly improved since. The picture of the rust is probably the worst spot I found on the rig. The undercarriage is a pic during the rebuild with new seals and hardware along the way. As seen, I reluctantly painted under the tub and between the frame rails satin black. Outside of the frame rails it is the original tan paint.

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It's a beauty. Not sure how much value is retained by having a matching numbers engine. Also not sure how you aren't a little more pissed off than you appear to be. Message me directly if you want me to call those guys and be pissed for you.
 

Krondor

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Joined
Mar 26, 2017
Messages
809
Location
Greenville, SC
After the mid 60's Toyota quit "matching" the engine number with the frame number on the Vin plate. As long as you find another F155 engine, you should be fine. I don't think there would be much loss in value by swapping to another period correct engine since yours is seized.
 
Joined
Nov 11, 2012
Messages
321
Location
NY
In many cases you can just replace the rod bearings and polish the journals and it will run fine. Drop the pan and take a peek.

That’s a beauty.
Typically the damage is minor and can be repaired. Inspect first before you do anything expensive.


This is sound advice.Well worth taking into consideration before jumping the gun and tearing everything apart.
 
Joined
Feb 6, 2002
Messages
15,228
Location
OC, CA
There are lots of engines where the distributor runs the oil pump, so they should have been aware of this issue. On many, like the small block Chevy V8, it is hard to be unaware that the distributor has not engaged the oil pump drive because you can’t get the hold down on, but still they should have known.
 

Dec7140

SILVER Star
Joined
Feb 28, 2016
Messages
30
Location
The Woodlands, Texas (Houston)
If the rest of your truck is all original- if it were me, I would definitely want to keep it that way. It looks like a really nice Land Cruiser. The parts are probably available. As for the clutch, migrating to a later model won’t make it work better. Your description sounds like you have oil leaking onto the clutch disk. The seal is usually, and should have, been replaced when the new clutch was done. If the mechanic who did your clutch is the same guy who replaced your distributor, he’s twice demonstrated his incompetence.
Thank you for the information.
 

Dec7140

SILVER Star
Joined
Feb 28, 2016
Messages
30
Location
The Woodlands, Texas (Houston)
After the mid 60's Toyota quit "matching" the engine number with the frame number on the Vin plate. As long as you find another F155 engine, you should be fine. I don't think there would be much loss in value by swapping to another period correct engine since yours is seized.
Good to know that, this will help in my decision.
 

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