SCS Wheels (1 Viewer)

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do you have a picture of the small lip that had to be machined off?? did it damage the finish of the wheel and had to be repainted?
 
do you have a picture of the small lip that had to be machined off?? did it damage the finish of the wheel and had to be repainted?
I am looking into the SR8 wheels for my 80 series as well. Curious about this question and whether the machined portion of the wheel is noticeable and will require additional powder coating etc? Anyone?
 
I am looking into the SR8 wheels for my 80 series as well. Curious about this question and whether the machined portion of the wheel is noticeable and will require additional powder coating etc? Anyone?
Not noticable at all. This is the best photo I could find online that shows the lip. Its pretty small on the inside bore. It's only there to hold the center caps.
SR8.jpg


Here's a picture of my black SR8 spare wheel where you can see the center bore after I removed the lip. Just bare aluminum in this photo and is visible only on my spare since there is no hub. Could easily be hit with a little spraypaint and not even be noticed.
SR8Lip.jpg


Here's one of the wheels on the truck. You can see that the hubs pass through the center bore and completely cover the area where the lip was removed.
SR8_Black.jpg
 
@TLC Norway I’ve been running them for a couple of years. 17” x 9” with 3.5”BS
Running 285/75R17 Toyo MT’s. Bulletproof combo! Look great and just on the edge of fenders.
Could use flares up front, but so far not a deal breaker. I didn’t see this old request until today.

41A87083-0676-411E-82C2-06B58576A1CF.jpeg


F24030F9-F94C-4640-89BD-90640379A8AF.jpeg
 
/SOAPBOX/
PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE PEOPLE!!!
Can we finally leave the BackSpace BS in the 1960s where it belongs?
What about FrontSpace? It's just as important to fitting those big ol' 37s inside the fender lip / flair.
And - you cannot use the stated wheel width when working with backspace.
Backspace is measured from the (inner) outer rim edge to the mounting surface, not the bead lip, where the rim width is spec'd.
Just how thick is that rim? NOBODY TELLS YOU! You have to guess, I guess, and very wheel design will be different.
Oh sure, you can measure rim to rim, subtract nominal width, divide by 2, and use that.
So, if you have been translating from offset to backspace, or vice versa, without some rim thickness estimate - you're doin' it wrong!
But why bother with all that when figuring with backspace is sooo lame anyway?
/SOAPBOX/


On the other hand...

When you know the rim width and offset, you know all you need to.
You can directly compare any wheel to any other, while easily including any wheel spacers in play.

Offset in mm (AKA "ET", AKA "IS") has been THE world wide wheel standard for many decades now.
It's always (almost?) molded/cast stamped into the rim. No need to guess.
For instance, here's an 18"x8" BMW wheel, IS20=20mm offset.
IMG_2024[1].JPG


Case in point, directly compare 3 wheels:

1) Stock FZJ80 Landcruiser wheel: 16"x8", ET0 (offset=0mm, symmetric around mounting surface)
2) I'll use the popular and well documented Tundra wheel, 17"x7.5", ET15, 6x139.7 bolt circle, 106.1mm centerbore, so it's a direct Landcruiser fit.
3) Let's compare to these SCS SR8 wheels that @Box Rocket has so nicely introduced to us here.
SCS SR8, 17"x8.5", offset=-10mm
NOTE: Flow Formed makes these superior to cast wheels - lighter weight per strength, and more malleable - bend instead of crack.
(They give BS too, for you troglodyte BSers.)
1571702935575.png


I run Cooper Discoverer STT in 37x12.5R17 on Tundra wheels, with 1.25" spacers, if doing it again, would go with 1" spacers. There is room on the inside, but under some conditions touch body work on the outside. The Tundra wheels have more backspace than stock wheels, so this setup is about like stock wheels with ~.5" spacer.

"touch body work on the outside" >> can you say FrontSpace?

Spacers - negative (outward) contribution to offset :
1.25" spacer -> (-)1.25" * 25.4mm/inch = -31.75mm offset.
1.00" spacer -> (-)1.00" * 25.4mm/inch = -25.4mm offset.

So, how does the Tundra wheel fit into the wheel well, compared to stock, including the spacers, exactly?
+15mm (wheel offset) -31.75mm (spacer offset) = -16.75mm offset. @Tools R Us says this is close, but not perfect.
So, he says this would be even better:
+15mm (wheel offset) -25.4mm (spacer offset) = -10.4mm offset. (compared to stock wheel, it's moved outboard by slightly less than 1/2")
This wheel is a bit narrow at 7.5", but that's actually a good thing for threading the 37" fit needle.
But 2 downsides cause grief at the tire shop (but field proven, works just fine on FZJ80s):
- 8" is the minimum recommended wheel width for 37x12.5R17 tires. They might refuse you at "less than minimum".
- Spacers require mission critical attention to proper installation procedures. They might refuse to mount to spacers.

How about the SCS SR8? (and several other models too)

-10mm offset is perfect!!!
And - no spacer needed = tire shop happiness.

How about the width? 8.5" on the SR8 compared to 7.5" on the Tundra?
At the tire bead: 0.5" wider to the inside and 0.5" wider to the outside.
Should be about half that at the widest part of the sidewall, so about 1/4" fatter, very slightly more likely to rub the rear frame?
But Tools says there's room there.

Zero difference at the tread.
So, basically, this wheel is already a proven fit on LX450 with fender flairs in place, slight plastic trim, no metal trim.
8.5" is the widest rim I would buy for fitting 37's (without major surgery), and 8" would be just slightly better, but this is OK.
17x8 and 8.5 is actually pretty hard to find out there in the world, so I think SCS targeted these wheels very well.

But, but, but...what about the backspace? :moon::moon:

(Can't get this damn thing to stop double posting this photo)

IMG_2024[1].JPG
 
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@Box Rocket - did SCS remove the hubcap lip for you?
Or did you do it yourself, access to machinery? Have it done at machine shop? Cost?
 
@ Bambusiero - if I want to run 35's on my 80 on stock flares, would either the 16x8, -12mm offset OR the 17x8.5, -10mm offset SCS wheels fit fine without spacers on a 3" OME lift? I'm not good at all this wheel math. I would really like to use SCS wheels rather than powdercoating the stockers.
 
Here's my understanding, from gathering in everything that's been said by many.
I'm not making authoritative claims here. This is what I've gathered, and what I will move forward on.

Running 35's on the 80 Series with a 3" lift, and 0ET (offset) 16x8 stock wheels, is pretty much a no interference no problem affair (assuming appropriate bump stop extensions). -10mm or -12mm offset moves the whole wheel and tire outward, away from frame and inner fender, by about 1/2", and that should not cause any problems at all on 35's at 12.5" width, because that's the best fit for 37's, which push the fit problem to "just barely". 37's seem to also need 1" more for a total of 4", either by suspension or body lift. 35's don't need that extra 1". With 37x12.5 the outer tire edge will contact the back edge of the flair plastic on the rear tire, which can be easily trimmed to "just barely" fits. Wider 37's than 12.5 will likely be be hitting the outer fender edge. No idea about wider 35's, but can't see the benefit in wider anyway, for most uses. 37's may require moving the front axle forward 3/4" to 1 1/4" to avoid firewall rub. Probably not needed for 35's, but may be a benefit for spring perch alignment?

So - 16x8 ET-12, or 17x8.5 ET-10 with 35x12.5 tires should be a good fit.
Cannot see how moving the 35" tire outboard by ~1/2" can cause any problem, since it's optimum for 37's.

Or so they say.

Not my fault if it doesn't work :flipoff2:
 
/SOAPBOX/
PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE PEOPLE!!!
Can we finally leave the BackSpace BS in the 1960s where it belongs?
What about FrontSpace? It's just as important to fitting those big ol' 37s inside the fender lip / flair.
And - you cannot use the stated wheel width when working with backspace.
Backspace is measured from the (inner) outer rim edge to the mounting surface, not the bead lip, where the rim width is spec'd.
Just how thick is that rim? NOBODY TELLS YOU! You have to guess, I guess, and very wheel design will be different.
Oh sure, you can measure rim to rim, subtract nominal width, divide by 2, and use that.
So, if you have been translating from offset to backspace, or vice versa, without some rim thickness estimate - you're doin' it wrong!
But why bother with all that when figuring with backspace is sooo lame anyway?
/SOAPBOX/
I just saw this. Ridiculous.
First off, until the late 80’s there wasn’t this unlimited tire / wheel selection as of now. Second
BS was very important to 15” wheels due to TRE issues.
Each person should Learn the math and do your own research. Personal preference plays a huge part in everything else
 

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