Builds "Scout" the 1977 FJ40 (1 Viewer)

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Pictures of the lights, take 1, as I'm loading these pictures up right now and see them on my computer screen vs. my phone I can tell they look like crap, I am going to take some more pictures tonight perhaps.

Headlights only: (E code Hellas with inexpensive LED H4 bulbs from Amazon and dedicated circuit)

Lights 1.jpg


Compared to stock halogen sealed beam headlights, these things are like taking a chunk of the sun and strapping it to the front of my rig. I don't know how anyone drives with the old sealed beam headlights in these rigs. With the weather we get here in the PNW and the rain, I just see that as dangerous. Besides being about 3 or 4 times brighter, the pattern is much more usable. See below, the non-E Code headlights on the left just toss out a blob of light but more importantly, it's all concentrated up high. The E Code headlights have a sharp cut off to avoid blinding other drivers and put more light on the road in front of you.

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In the picture above "stock" is the normal US headlight pattern. "Autopal" is the E Code pattern. I lifted this pic from another dude here on Mud... thanks!

Headlights with fog lights:

Lights 3.jpg

(Sorry, crappy focus that I only realize now that I'm putting them up on the big screen. I'll get updated ones tonight.)

Much better fill down low and to the sides. It may seem like they're brighter but I think my camera focused on something different than in my first picture. Again, updated pictures to come.

Headlights on high beam with KC Daylighters which automatically turn on when my high beams are selected.
Lights 2.jpg


I could probably stand to aim the KC lights a bit higher but have not done so yet. They are so incredibly bright that if I turn them on when I'm driving the power of the lights pushing forward slows my vehicle down and I have to downshift. (not really but they are super bright)

Headlights and fog lights:

Lights 4.jpg


I've looked at these from a vehicle driving by and the cut off is so sharp that they look dimmer than most other headlights on the road from other driver's perspective. In my opinion that is just as important. Blinding other drivers is not cool. This set up gives me plenty of light down the road and keeps it out of other people's eyes.

More to come, just wanted to share.

Happy Cruisering!
 
Hey man love this thread! I just picked up my first FJ40 (1974) and it Is in similar shape to how yours was I think. We’ve been saying it has a great 15mph resto job, your thread here is full of info and I can’t wait to see what direction you take it in
 
Hey man love this thread! I just picked up my first FJ40 (1974) and it Is in similar shape to how yours was I think. We’ve been saying it has a great 15mph resto job, your thread here is full of info and I can’t wait to see what direction you take it in

Thanks so much! It's been a lot of fun! I can easily attribute much of the knowledge and forward progress that I've made to the people who were kind enough to share their experiences here on this site before me. This place is an amazing resource. Right now I'm reading a thread about intake and exhaust manifold gaskets because mine failed not too long after replacing it when I did the head gasket about 4 months ago. I'm finding so much info here. It's truly a priceless library of knowledge.

Cheers,
Adam
 
Hey man love this thread! I just picked up my first FJ40 (1974) and it Is in similar shape to how yours was I think. We’ve been saying it has a great 15mph resto job, your thread here is full of info and I can’t wait to see what direction you take it in

Also, dude, let's see some pics of your rig!!
 
Just to give you an update of where I am with this rig. I am currently fixing a small exhaust manifold leak at the gasket on the #1 cyl. which only made noise when the engine was cold. I've ordered a remflex gasket and I plan on using a half washer to snug up that part of the exhaust manifold.

For anyone needing to do an intake/exhaust manifold gasket replacement, let me just tell you... it's super easy. Remove the air cleaner assembly 2 minutes. Remove the carb 10 minutes. Remove the intake and exhaust manifold 10 minutes. This assumes you don't have the smog crap to worry about and you have presoaked your nuts and bolts as much as you feel is necessary. Since I already had this off about 3 months ago, I didn't need to worry about any of that.

Because it's so easy to pull this off and replace the gasket, I've decided not to have the intake/exhaust machined. Also, because the face doesn't have much material to take off, I think someone has already milled it before. Plus, since the only spot that was leaking was that #1 exhaust, I think I can snug it down properly with a half washer. Only time will tell.

Does anyone know if the 77 exhaust manifold is supposed to not use that first bolt on the head? My exhaust manifold doesn't have the ear or bolt hole to utilize that spot, which would be super handy to snug down that part of the exhaust manifold... I might weld one on if this doesn't fix it.

intake exhaust removed.jpg


Some additional time savers... clean the hell out of your engine before starting this project. No need to remove the carb completely from the vehicle, just swing it out of the way keeping the choke cable connected, this obviously saves time upon installation as well.
 
I buttoned everything up and took it for a spin yesterday and saw this handsome fellow....

Mustard yellow....jpg


Very nice PTO winch!

I made an ugly addition to my exhaust manifold by chopping up an exhaust flange and welding it to the #1 cylinder on my manifold. It works really well at snugging up that one spot which was leaking. I'm not super happy with how it looks but I didn't want to invest a ton of time in it before I figured out if it actually did what I wanted it to do.

Exhaust Manifold.jpg


The next time that exhaust manifold comes off, I'll touch up that weld and grind it a little better. For now, it seems to be doing what it's purpose is, snugging down that #1 exhaust manifold leading edge where I was experiencing the leak. Also that Remflex manifold gasket seems to be working pretty well. I put it on with no sealants and torqued all bolts to 25lbs as per the instructions on the back.

Honestly part of me thinks that if I experience any sort of future leak on this manifold I may just replace it with a header.
 
As promised, some updated pictures of the exhaust system that Muffler King in Kirkland installed.

So far I'm very pleased with it. One thing they did which wasn't ideal was they replaced the gasket between my exhaust manifold and the down pipe with a non factory gasket which immediately started to leak. I've since replaced it with a Toyota gasket which was about 2 times thicker and crushes down to seal properly.

In a previous post I showed some before pictures of my rusted out exhaust. Here are the after pics!

Exhaust 1.jpg


Exhaust 2.jpg


Exhaust 3.jpg


Exhaust 4.jpg
 
Overall, I'm super happy with it. It's quiet and I can feel a seat of the pants difference in the power due to it not being so restricted. It's now 2.5" all the way. Before it was 2.25" and a little more than a foot of it was an even smaller diameter. I'm not sure if I could relate it to an actual HP or torque number but I can feel a difference when driving it.

I also added a little extra adhesive backed foam to the blower motor box where it connects to the passenger side fender to ensure all of the air I was pulling in to the cab was coming from outside of the engine compartment. Before I did this, there was a gap about 1/4 of an inch all the way around and I could smell some exhaust when that manifold was leaking. Now it's all sealed up!
 
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Exhaust looks good. What muffler did you get, and do you like how it sounds?

Thanks Reddog! When I went to the muffler shop I let them know what I was looking for... "stock sound but that I'd like it to breathe better". The owner of the shop knew exactly what I wanted and told me that he was going to put on essentially a stock replacement muffler from a vehicle with 2.5" exhaust. I don't think it's anything fancy but it's quiet and clean looking.
 
One thing that bothered me from day one is the fact that the hood rattles super loudly when I go over even the slightest bump. I felt the hood and the hinges are very worn out. I just picked up some of the bushing/pins that SMG sells here on Mud, I'm going to install those to see if I can make the ride a bit quieter. Everything else is super tight now so I figure $70 for something that makes the ride more enjoyable is money well spent. Plus it means I get to buy an air hammer to install them! :) More soon.
 
In anticipation of receiving my new @SMG hood hinge pin/bushing replacements I removed one of the hinges and did my best to remove the pin using a hammer and punch.

Well, the hand held hammer and punch method yielded absolutely zero movement after hitting it well over 50 times, pretty hard with a 3lb sledge! Not a single millimeter. SMG suggested an air hammer which I also saw on @wngrog write up, I own zero air hammers. So when the dude from Amazon rang my door bell I was anxious to try out my new toy.

I'd already mounted the hinge on a piece of wood to secure it which worked pretty well. To my amazement, the pin literally slid out like butter after just a half second of the air hammer. BRAAAP. pin out. The moral of this story is to use the right tool for the job. The air hammer was cheap, it was delivered the next day and it worked like magic.

Had it not been for SMG and wngrog I'd have wasted lots of time, become frustrated and probably damaged my hinge. thanks guys, that's what this site is all about!!

Hood Hinge Pin.jpg
 
Also, while I wait for the new hinge pins I might as well share an update that was promised a long time ago and is finally finished.

Stereo and Speakers...

Music is pretty important to me and we take this rig on some long road trips. So my goals were decent quality sound, low cost and no major modifications necessary. I didn't want a removable box with speakers in it, I didn't want to use a separate amplifier and I didn't want anything to impact the limited space this vehicle has. I also wanted Bluetooth calling and music as well as HD radio.

I used the DEH-X8800BHS head unit from Pioneer which is set up for exactly what I want with tons of power right out of the box... no need for an amp. I ended up needing to trim the pad a little on the passenger side. On the drivers side I simply relocated the attachment points to the dash by about a half inch.

Stereo.jpg



Satellite tweeters mounted with double sided tape.

Satalite Tweeter.jpg


Inexpensive mid range speakers mounted under the dash using the magnet on the back of the speaker.

Satalite Mid.jpg


Wakeboard speakers mounted on the roll bar

Wakeboard Speakers.jpg


This set up accomplishes all of my goals and sounds remarkably good, it doesn't take away any usable storage space and it wasn't very expensive. It certainly sounds better than the Retro Sound stereo and terrible speakers that were in this thing when I bought it. I sold the Retro Sound stereo to fund the entire replacement so it essentially cost me nothing. :clap:
 
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Lastly, I got creative with a wood box that we receive a wine shipment in and made a cool little storage tray for small items. These rigs are not known for having useful little storage spots and I needed somewhere to put my phone and various other things.

I also wanted to charge my phone using the Qi (inductive) charger I bought. Here's what I came up with.

Wood storage spot.jpg
 
Decided to rebuild the heater box this morning. Every time I turn on the blower motor more of the foam blows out of the vents, plus it stinks and I'm wondering how much of the heater core is plugged up with foam remnants.

Step 1. acquire suitable beverage:

Morning beer.jpg


That's about as far as I got, still looking for the rebuild kit I bought almost exactly 1 year ago. Stay tuned....
 
Hmmmm, Breakfast Stout - - how's it go with an English Muffin?
 

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