Build "Scout" the 1977 FJ40

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I put 20 miles or so on it today before the Super Bowl and I'm still surprised at how much better it drives with the plugs properly gaped. Warm starts are a bump of the key and the idle is smoother. Power is up along the whole rpm range.

I'm also really pleased with the results from changing out those hood & door pins/bushings. Every time I close the door it sounds like I'm shutting the door of a safe. Plus that hood clunking around over every bump was driving me crazy.

Here's a pic from today...
Cruiser.webp
 
77CruiserDog said:
It's always motivating to get a win under your belt right?

On my drive today it was grey, dark and rainy. I was paying special attention to the temp gauge as I was flooring it up the freeway for my break neck speed run of somewhere in the realm of 80MPH. Shocking I know. Anyone who's driven a 40 at that speed knows what I'm talking about.

I noticed my gauges were super dim and I seemed to remember a post somewhere here on MUD where the poster said he removed the light blocking baffles in the gauge cluster. So I decided that would be my next project. 20 minutes later and a huge double thumbs up!

Steps I took:

1) disconnect battery then remove two screws holding gauge cluster in
2) provide slack in speedo cable by pushing it a few inches from engine compartment in to cabin
3) unhook speedo cable and wire harness plus the two wires to the amp meter
4) bring gauge cluster to desk and remove all small screws on back of perimeter of gauge cluster
5) carefully remove gauges from housing, this was a pain in the ass because it was super tight, take your time
6) locate both round metal gauge light bulb covers seen below and remove corresponding bulbs below them, then use flat head screw driver to carefully remove the metal covers from their 2 spot welds
7) locate both flat metal covers above the amp meter gauge and oil pressure gauge, then use flat head screw driver to carefully remove them from their two spot welds.


8) reassemble and admire handy work



This is at minimum a 500% increase in light, it makes a huge difference! I know I'm the last person with a Land Cruiser to have done this but I figured I'd record the process and results for posterity.

Cheers! :beer:
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Wow. Did you replace burnt out bulbs or just clean the contacts? Also, did you reinstall the tabs and spot weld them or leave them off?
 
BadReligion said:
Wow. Did you replace burnt out bulbs or just clean the contacts? Also, did you reinstall the tabs and spot weld them or leave them off?
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Nope, just removed the 2 light covers and 2 light blocking tabs. They prevent a ton of light from actually getting to where it needs to be. It's a pretty common mod made to these gauge clusters. The bulbs I used are the standard ones, but they are new.
 
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Top down weatherstrip replacement

Today I removed the fiberglass cap so I can start my top down weatherstrip replacement. After removing the 27,000 bolts, the cap came off super easy and the (possibly original) weatherstrip in between the cap and sides was so dry it cracked into pieces, it was time.

I spent plenty of time cleaning off the PO attempts to keep water out with black RTV, white bathtub caulking and various forms of rubber cement and black sticky rubber stuff.

I ordered new gaskets from City Racer and all new hardware from Overland Metric. I'm looking forward to getting it sealed up properly. The only piece I didn't need to replace was the rubber gasket between the tub and windshield frame. It was replaced by the restoration place and still looks brand new.

I also ordered some of this to shoot after I clean off some very minor surface rust.

Amazon product ASIN B000C028FI
top.jpg
 
I'll take some "after" paint pictures of my fiberglass cap soon. It turned out so good. I'm very happy with the results. I feel like the "biscuit" colored appliance paint was completely the ticket. It was easy to use and the color is dead on to my eyes.

In the meantime I replaced a few items that were completely wasted on my rig. Luckily City Racer had these items and makes it super easy to order... a little too easy. But it is nice getting a box of goodies from him.

Weatherstripping.webp


In putting the fiberglass cap back on I replaced all of the weatherstripping. City Racer seems to focus on quality reproduction items when it's impossible or impractical to replace with OEM items. The quality of the top gasket was spot on!

Wiper box gasket.webp


I replaced the old and possibly original wiper cover gasket. Sometimes it's cathartic to take off something old and worn out and replace it with new. Land Cruiser therapy.... it's not inexpensive and some might think we're crazier for doing what we do but it sure is rewarding for some reason.

I also ordered new weatherstripping for both front doors and the rear amby doors. I've replaced the amby door weatherstripping and ran in to some issues while doing it where I learned something that may help others.

3M 8008 black super weatherstrip adhesive is not the right stuff to use with replacement weatherstripping. It's been discussed here Help, I'm in FJ40 door weatherstrip replacement hell and well documented in other vehicle forums. EPDM (the material used in making weatherstripping) will not stick to 8008. Trust me, I wanted to push my rig out of the garage and set it on fire after spending about 4 days trying to use it. Do not make the same mistake as I did.

3M 8011 is apparently the correct stuff. Amazon product ASIN B0002SQTVY and will work with EPDM material.

However, I'm giving this stuff a try Amazon product ASIN B00HLY78N0 and in my hyper short term result testing, finding that it works really well.
 
The white fiberglass cap on my vehicle was showing it's wear. The edge was rusty in spots all around and when I had the cap off the mating surface where the gasket contacts was also slightly surface rusted.

I started with the mating surface when I had the cap off. I cleaned the entire surface and sprayed 2 thin coats of the Rustoleum Biscuit appliance paint on. Worked like a charm.

Then I mounted the cap on the rig with the new gasket and masked off everything except the lip. I scuffed it with some sand paper and then sprayed it with 4 or 5 thin coats as well. I highly recommend spraying super thin coats with this paint. It wrinkles if it's put on even slightly too thick. Don't ask how I know.

Before
before.webp


During
during.webp


After
after.webp


I may go back and color sand it a tiny bit but honestly this looks way better than it was and wasn't that difficult.
 
77CruiserDog said:
View attachment 2216984

I may go back and color sand it a tiny bit but honestly this looks way better than it was and wasn't that difficult.
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Nice work on your rig!

If you don't have any, here's a great item to have installed so you don't have to use that loose rubber sheet to protect your hood when its resting against the roof: Toyota OEM part, Roof Drip Cushion -> 63118-90300 <-
 
GA Architect said:
Nice work on your rig!

If you don't have any, here's a great item to have installed so you don't have to use that loose rubber sheet to protect your hood when its resting against the roof: Toyota OEM part, Roof Drip Cushion -> 63118-90300 <-
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Thanks GA! I was always wondering if there was something that was supposed to be there!! I'm going to get one coming!
 
77CruiserDog said:
Thanks GA! I was always wondering if there was something that was supposed to be there!! I'm going to get one coming!
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Get several of them.....after a few years they possibly loosen up and fly off.....or some A-hole removed it while I was shopping at Tractor Supply a few months ago.
 
GA Architect said:
Get several of them.....after a few years they possibly loosen up and fly off.....or some A-hole removed it while I was shopping at Tractor Supply a few months ago.
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I put it on with the same double sided tape I used for my rear ambulance door weatherstripping. That thing isn't going anywhere. :beer:
 
Sometimes you just need an easy win, today provided that opportunity.

Last time I drove my cruiser the speedo cable broke. I was hoping it just came loose from the back of the gauge cluster but nope, the cable actually broke about 2" from the cluster. I went on Amazon and found one for $15, the reviews said it worked perfectly so I ordered it up.

Removed the old one (it put up a fight so I had to use the wheel of death)
Old speedo cable.jpg


New speedo cable (a perfect fit)
New speedo cable.jpg


New speedo cable part number
New speedo cable part number.jpg


Now I'm not saying it's going to last 40+ years like the prior cable but for $15 it made it hard to pass up. I did spray some white lithium grease in the new cable housing before installation. All told it took about 40 minutes to install and worked perfectly on the test drive.

Side note, yesterday marked 1 year having Scout. I remember the day fondly having driven home in the snow storm and celebrating with my wife and dad at a nearby steak house. It's been a really fun journey and one that I'd like to repeat one of these days on an FJ60. I'll be hunting one of those as my current daily driver is going to come up on it's lease next March. I've driven an FJ60 and think it would make the perfect DD vehicle for my needs. I like the light blue ones like this one...

1984_FJ60_Toyota_Land_Cruiser_001-1024x683.webp


But really any color would do. I kick myself for getting rid of a really nice turd brown FJ60 about 15 years ago. It was 100% complete and bone stock.

Cheers,
Adam
 
Masonblackmon said:
Good to know on the amazon cable, I broke mine when I removed the cluster trying to fix the fuel gauge
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forum.ih8mud.com

For Sale - Aftermarket Speedometer Cable - $20 + shipping

$20 + shipping. Brand new, unopened. Purchased at SOR last fall. I was looking for an OEM cable for my HJ47 (RHD) and they told me this would fit. It was only after I took it home that I realized it wasn’t OEM but aftermarket. I wanted OEM so I ordered from Amayama but got lazy and didn’t...
forum.ih8mud.com forum.ih8mud.com

I'd be happy to match Amazon's price, if only to get this one gone.
 
Supporting Local - Oil pan replacement

There is no question about it, Covid has changed the landscape for many industries. Automotive technicians are one of those heavily impacted. Not only are most people not putting many miles on their cars but they're also very concerned about having someone else in their vehicle.

No cars to work on means no hours to bill. To compound the problem in my region specifically, the COVID outbreak for the United States arguably began at the Kirkland Life Center 6 miles from my house. So our area has been impacted for a bit longer than some. Combine that with the fact that many industries in my area (Amazon, Google, Microsoft) can very easily work from home.... I see a potential for a long term impact to those who rely on vehicles being driven for their paycheck.

Toyota of Kirkland is my local Toyota dealership and I have known their service manager since we were kids. Ever since this Covid mess started he's been posting on social media that he'd be happy to pick up vehicles for service from customer's homes and drop them off when it's finished. Going the extra mile is what this dealership and individual is known for. I finally took him up on his offer and asked if they'd like to replace the oil pan on Scout.

Besides a tiny leak between the skid plate and oil pan, the main reason to replace was the oil drain plug size, it was massive and every time I changed the oil the old oil would flow out so fast that it would "Exxon Valdez" my garage. The updated pan has a smaller drain plug and as a bonus I could have them inspect the oil sump screen and bottom end.

The work was done in a few hours, I have driven it since and it's flawless and most importantly I was able to support an industry that is incredibly important. I know this site leans toward doing most of the maintenance and upgrades ourselves, that's what I love about this community. However, in these unprecedented times, if you can, I encourage you to look at your Land Cruisers (or other vehicles) and consider what work you might share.

1589480801795.png


I'm happy I did.

Also.... No comments needed on the front brake line, it was a roadside repair but works perfectly. I have a box of new stainless steel lines, it will be replaced soon.

Happy Cruisering,
Adam
 
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