Scored 2006 LC w/194K AHC (untouched Jewell restoration) (2 Viewers)

[2001LC]

New PCV was installed:

Along with new Spark plugs

I've three coils that look like some heat damage. Discoloration from heat, also boots a bit cracked at ends which may be early warring sign. So I marked the worst two with "H" for heat/Halo and put one over spare plug number 1 and the other over #2. The third coil didn't look as heat damage so I put "M H" on it for medium heat. and put over spark plug #4. These will be easy spot to monitor and or replace. I should also note the old plugs of these coil had discoloration halo's.

 

[2001LC]

Only about 100 parts left to go!

 

[2001LC]

Here's shots of were I put suspect coils. And some old shots of spark plugs that they went to. They had some halos at porcelain. It the chicken and the egg story. Did plug run hot effecting coils or ....

#1:

#2 & #4

These came from #3 & #5 which I marked their coils with H. Notice Halo around spark plug insulator (porcelain browning of white area)

This coil I marked with MH which came from #6 cylinder, now this coil's on #4. It's spark plug had least halo.

You can see cracks on the three boots, least is on MH. All others coils, rubber look like new condition

 

[Dannyboy lx470]

What's the tell signs of poor coils in regards to like engine performance or idle etc ?.

 

[TheForger]

In regards to replacing the PCV valve, is it just a simple remove and replace installation (disconnecting the line of course)? Or are there any additional steps you have to take to replace it?

 

[2001LC]

What's the tell signs of poor coils in regards to like engine performance or idle etc ?.

Idle is one but low or rough idle can be many things. This may help with your queston: When to replace Ignition coils. Having the scope shown in that links' video would be a great tool to have. I was going to run some test with one last year, but the scope didn't become available yet. Other than that it just subjective and deductive reasoning looked for signs of weak coils. One think we no for sure, heat is the killer of coils. A spark plug gap to wide or bad spark plug will draw more current creating more heat. So keep plus fresh helps protect coils.

In regards to replacing the PCV valve, is it just a simple remove and replace installation (disconnecting the line of course)? Or are there any additional steps you have to take to replace it?

It's very simple, with No additional steps. If just removing PCV valve to clean, then replace the thread sealer/lubricate before re-installing. This is for 03-07

98-02 have rubber grommet as opposed to thread that came in 03-07. Those earlier rubber grommet need replacing as often as the PCV hoses on both sides (PS & DS). You'll see me installing new PCV hoses as I button up this engine.

PCV valve usually just need to be cleaned and will work fine. I just went ahead and order a new one while I was entering a large order for parts which included PCV hoses! It actually works ok, but is a little gummed up. Hoses and grommets on the other hand just keep getting looser over time which allow vacuum leaks and reduce effectiveness of PCV system.

A gummed up stuck closed PCV valve is very hard on engine seals. Pressure builds in crank case and blows out seals.

Loose hoses or grommet allows vacuum leak. If you've ever pulled a PCV hoses off intake while engine running, say to spray in a can of SeaFoam. Then you've seen, felt and heard how badly engine runs from the PCV hose vacuum leak.

Keeping PCV valve clean and working properly and hoses in good condition is important as you can see.

 

[TheForger]

Idle is one but low or rough idle can be many things. This may help with your queston: When to replace Ignition coils. Having the scope shown in that links' video would be a great tool to have. I was going to run some test with one last year, but the scope didn't become available yet. Other than that it just subjective and deductive reasoning looked for signs of weak coils. One think we no for sure, heat is the killer of coils. A spark plug gap to wide or bad spark plug will draw more current creating more heat. So keep plus fresh helps protect coils.

It's very simple, with No additional steps. If just removing PCV valve to clean, then replace the thread sealer/lubricate before re-installing. This is for 03-07

98-02 have rubber grommet as opposed to thread that came in 03-07. Those earlier rubber grommet need replacing as often as the PCV hoses on both sides (PS & DS). You'll see me installing new PCV hoses as I button up this engine.

PCV valve usually just need to be cleaned and will work fine. I just went ahead and order a new one while I was entering a large order for parts which included PCV hoses! It actually works ok, but is a little gummed up. Hoses and grommets on the other hand just keep getting looser over time which allow vacuum leaks and reduce effectiveness of PCV system.

A gummed up stuck closed PCV valve is very hard on engine seals. Pressure builds in crank case and blows out seals.

Loose hoses or grommet allows vacuum leak. If you've ever pulled a PCV hoses off intake while engine running, say to spray in a can of SeaFoam. Then you've seen, felt and heard how badly engine runs from the PCV hose vacuum leak.

Keeping PCV valve clean and working properly and hoses in good condition is important as you can see.

Thanks for the helpful info I will most likely be replacing mine soon! I didn't realize those valves were specific between year models but now I see the pn for '98-'02 is 12204-50020 for the valve and 90480-18001 for the grommet, as opposed to 12204-50030 for '03-'07 and its the entire threaded assembly. So one PCV valve and two hoses, correct?

 

[2001LC]

Thanks for the helpful info I will most likely be replacing mine soon! I didn't realize those valves were specific between year models but now I see the pn for '98-'02 is 12204-50020 for the valve and 90480-18001 for the grommet, as opposed to 12204-50030 for '03-'07 and its the entire threaded assembly. So one PCV valve and two hoses, correct?

Correct:
Here's a shot of hose location. The power steering vacuum hose set are worth inspecting also. Seem both sets of hoses look the worst at bottom ends. If hose end still tight on fitting but starting to crack or rubber starting to harden I'll schedule out re-inspect for following year when I clean throttle Body, MAF sensor & battery post etc.. (minor tune-up) but at some point they will lose seal and vacuum drops.

This photo looks like from 03-05 model but it same location for all years.

Notice cracks in PCV hose end (Stock photo year & side unknown)

Here's cracks in steering vacuum hoses from Snowy:

 

[2001LC]

Held-up a bit from working Snowy for last few days. I did manage to go get clean title in my name from Motor Vehicle, Pick-up WhiteLine Steering Rack bushing kit from Slee Off Road and order more parts from Toyota Dealer stuff like front shocks & all front differential bushing/stops/mounts.

Going to be very busy next few weeks!

 

[2001LC]

Installed the Steering rack bushing from Slee Off Road. I did this because steering was just starting to get a little soft but was still serviceable (within acceptable limits IMO) and would surely soften more accelerating any weakness in rack or TRE (tie rod end) over time. I found no sign of leakage, and gears of rack felt tight which is about all one can do on testing. I test steering by raising just one front wheel then watch steering rack to TRE for any remarkable movement as I twist raised wheel/tire side to side holding at 3 & 9 position. This can be hard to observe as rubber bushing soften and steel bushing hole that is in center of rubber widens or reams-outs. So it get difficult to tell whats moving.The trick is to watch for movement between main body of rack and shaft covered by boot.

Mounting Bushing replacement, was much harder to get cups of old bushing out then I thought it would be. But easy to put replacement bushings in. Just the opposite of/on pre 03's racks! I not recommend doing 03 + racks without air tools or you may find yourself pulling the rack to get some cups/bushings out. One issue is DS bushing is hard to get at. DS is also aluminium socket of rack holding bushings' steel cup. When you have different metal they tend to freeze up more with age and moisture. The different rates the metals expand and contract seem to allow moisture in a very tightly pressed together surface compounding freeze up issues IMHO. Without air tools one would real struggle here and pound excessively on rack.

Using poly bushing is not my favorite thing, as it lacks as much of the rubber damping effect Mr T intended. But the saving in $$ to tighten up steering when only bushing are starting to weakening is sweet. No one can say how long steering rack or TRE will last with ploy, but with age the rubber will get looser and looser which will put it's own stress on these components. So once they start showing sings of softening I've been replacing. I did this on my 01 and two other 100's last year and love the feel & handling.

So bottom line the poly's may not add a lot of miles to Steering Rack or TRE but will make driving safer and more pleasant until time comes when rack is bad and must be replaced.

I had hoped to have running this weekend to get better feel of steering and run more test. But parts delay will put me out a week.

 

[2001LC]

Oh pick-up some hood lifts yesterday, length looks same as OEM. The Monroe max lifts I've used are a little shorter. Can't wait to install!

Here's how they look. They work great, one finger to open a third of the way, then lifts takeover raising the other two thirds. I like!

SO sweet no more vise grips for safety stops

 

[2001LC]

Not only did I get hood lifts on todsy (ok 5 min job) I did add a number of parts. But first got back to paint touch up. I just keep working spot until I can't, which is about one more week. Then I'll bake in sun a bit waiting two weeks to buff with cut again, then polish and final wax. Those that see body now thing it's done ...NOOOOO 30 plus hours or more. I'll hit 200 hours total just detailing Snowy. Bad part is, I'll never be satisfied, but just so much can be done!

After which I installed a new DS door seal. Old had wear from enter sliding butt across I suppose. Wear wasn't bad bad I consider none serviceable.

Door is almost to tight now, may take months to seat/loosen up. Great seal for sure!

 

[2001LC]

Someone broke the switch housing. I saw this on Redbaron also, at rear door. They pry and pry until they break the rear plastic stationary hook, then glue down to door panel which is not a good idea.

One only needs press in under lip of front to release the metal spring clip. So I installed a new housing swapping the wood grain trim.

Used heat gun to soften two side tape holding

I didn't secure wood grain with new tape, just old that remained. This will make removal easy to delete or replace down the road to personal preference.

 

[2001LC]

Finally replace the power steering HP line I had refitted with new hose an fittings

I've been using aluminium foil more lately to cover all opens to protect form dirt and liquids. Works well as easy to from, holds well and is lint free.

Put some 102 black FIPG on threads of Air Control Valve. Did see anything in FSM on this, not even torque but seem like good idea. It fits loose until it bottoms at just the right spot.

PS & DS are different sizes.

One more reason I wanted test drive this weekend, to see if leaking!

 

[2001LC]

More parts in today, and two more loads (8 fuel injectors and some miscellaneous stuff) coming next week. Oil sending unit, all mounts/stops/bushing fro front differential (expect two bushing I'm get next week).

Two front shocks & seals:

I better get to work.

 

[2001LC]

Buttoning up the engine compartment a little more as I wait for 8 new fuel injectors.

Cleaned up and install fan & shroud:

I always like to double check that rubber bumpers on bottom of each side are on and in place.

 

[2001LC]

Replaced heater Tee's and blew coolant out of front and rear heaters.

 

[2001LC]

Installed new oil sending unit.
I used 102 black FIPG as thread sealer.

 

[2001LC]

Installed new O-ring on dip stick. I'm finding this is common leak point for the 06-07, I need to check my 01! I tried something a little different this time. I rubbed AT-205 re-seal on O-ring along with on the fixed grommet then coated them with oil.

The old O-ring has shrunk a bit.

 

[YodatheLC]

did you use the original factory heater T clamps, or did you purchase new ones? I just recently got new hoses and T's but wasn't sure if I needed new clamps. I have seen other members going with different style of clamps as well.