Scored 2006 LC w/194K AHC (untouched Jewell restoration) (1 Viewer)

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Thanks Andrew, the best is yet to come. I'll be finalizing my parts list soon, just running a few more test.

I've confirmed the power steering H&P is leaking and where. I'll R&R the power steering Hose & Pipe, a first for me. I took Snowy to a Machine shop I use, they sent me to Emrick & Hill. They said they can replace the hose, pressure fittings and reuse my reducer in about two hours. I'll pull it while doing the timing belt along with any other engine work.

Reducer, after cleaning
PS HP hose leak (1).JPG
Before
Steering HP hose 06LC first in shop inspection 456 (1).JPG
Steering HP hose 06LC first in shop inspection 456 (18).JPG
 
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I do a fair amount of PM and tinkering, to the point where my wife is starting ask if I'm working on the truck "again" this weekend. But you certainly go the added mile to make sure every detail is in tip top operating condition. Cudos

Today I'll be greasing spindles and re checking bearing preload, snap ring gap and swapping the flanges side to side- it's been a year since my bearing install and time to double check things before my long trip to Colorado next month.
 
As you could see the Upper bumper support was looking nasty, as they usual do.

Cleaned with lacquer thinner, Rust Remove pad, acid then painted:

After:
Bumper, upper support front 1.JPG

Before:
Bumper upper surpport (7).JPG

Bumper upper surpport (1).JPG
Bumper upper surpport (9).JPG
 
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Removed screws and urethane windshield installer improperly used to attach side molding, He really butchered the molding.
Windshield molding removal (5).JPG
Windshield molding removal (1).JPG

Needed to flatten out screw holes and urethane along side so molding will fit flush, and completely clean out rain gutter so two sided tape has smooth surface to adhere to. No rust sweet!
Windshield molding removal (8).JPG

I use a scraper, eraser wheel and 3M adhesive remover..... what a pain.
Urethane clean off (1).JPG
Urethane clean off (2).JPG
 
Started micro grinding chip in paint to remove any rust. This is going to take some time to get all the way around body.

Before:
DS paint chip before.jpg

After micro grinding out chip to remove all traces of rust:
Chip grinding (2).JPG

Chips are coming along nicely with primer and base coat in. Some spots better than others, which I'll just keep work until my eyes no longer find or appearance is reasonable. Number one in chip repair is protecting the body metal.
036.JPG

One of my micro chip tools:
Chip grinding (7).JPG

Microscope to inspect each chip before, during and after grinding:
Chip grinding (8).JPG


I've try something different this time. Using a POR metal prep before primer. Also 3M auto body sealer to use before installing windshield molding (for open holes, rain gutter seam and body panels seams).
 
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In between working paint chips, I worked a few other areas:

One being the PS rear wheel well 1/4 panel area, where mud flaps fastens. I'm suppose mud flap was pushed up, bending support area of 1/4. This may have affected integrity of seal between body panels. So straightened and I opened up area then scraped out old seal.
Wheel well qt tip Rear (1).JPG
Wheel well qt tip Rear (2).JPG

After some additional cleaning, I soak with POR AP120 Metal Prep too react with any remaining rust that may be on surface. This is same stuff I used on paint chips before priming.
Wheel well qt tip Rear (7).JPG

Then gave coat of POR-15 (three coat in all) which actual states "need not remove rust before painting on", but still I de-rust.
Wheel well qt tip Rear (8).JPG
Wheel well qt tip Rear (4).JPG
 
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I used a 3M product to seal body seams up after pinching gap to narrow a bit. Actually did two application of sealer over two days.
Wheel well qt tip Rear (4) a.JPG

Then coated with a under-body rubberize.
Frame wheel well rear RH (3).JPG

Wheel well qt tip Rear (7) a.JPG

I also re-sealed DS.
075.JPG

Wheel well qt tip Rear (6).JPG
 
Saw a little rust near top of frame rail on spring coil upper cup on PS. I see this on most rigs even the king has some. Most time I just pack with grease as here on DS, which actual didn't have rust. I also wiped down frame rial with marine grease, as I'm done with this area.
Wheel well Rear (2).JPG
Frame wheel well rear RH (1).JPG

PS needed some PRO-15 coating some minor rust.
Frame wheel well rear RH (5).JPG

Also coated wheel wells with rubberize undercoating as needed, paying special attention to cracks & loose materiel in old undercoat removed & cleaned first.
Wheel well Rear (2).JPG
Wheel well Rear (5).JPG
Made sure to fill low spots in corners:
Wheel well qt tip Rear (6) a.JPG
 
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While in the are I pulled rear brakes apart to inspect. Rotor and pads are like new but I did have to service anti squeal shims, calipers pins, pin boots and clip slides. Oh and you may have notice I've installed new E-brake adjuster port rubber boot on each side after adjusting.
017.JPG

Anti-squeal Shims on both LH & RH where falling apart.
038.JPG


The caliper Torque Plate lower (slave) pins' on both LH & RH had been beaten on and boots where not great so replaced.
037.JPG

040.JPG
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While waiting on parts I cleaned up the caliper pad cages (Torque Plate).
057.JPG
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065.JPG
All ready to go in with slide clips cleaned along with new slave pin, pin boots, shims and greased
008.JPG
 
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Cleaned up and marine greased axle hub as I buttoned up.
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046.JPG

048.JPG
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Sung up then back off 8 clicks...done.
050.JPG
 
I edited post #86 with this pic to show after to go with before of A pillar paint chips, they're coming along nicely all around body.
036.JPG

As I scraped out old polyurethane (windshield installer improperly used) from rain gutters, some old gutter seal was missing and some I cleaned out.
005.JPG

I've got the rain gutter sealer in now. Ready to replacing windshield side molding soon.
Rain gutter seal (1).JPG

This is same 3M sealer I used in rear wheel well seams.
Rain gutter seal (2).JPG
 
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I went back over upper front bumper support with a few coats of POR-15. It's tough shell should work nicely to keep grim/grit from cutting though to metal again. I find this spot where bumper rest rusty on ever 100 series.
Bumper, upper support front 1.JPG
Bumper. upper support front 3.JPG

Bumper. upper support front 3.JPG
The underside of hood lip is just one more place to keep and eye on for grim cutting into paint. So I put a few coats of POR-15 here as well for protection.
040.JPG

One more trouble spot is where rear bumper rides on cross member, so I coated with POR also:
Frame, rear bumper cross member.JPG
001.JPG
 
Recondition & painting of molding that goes under headlights are coming along nicely.
Headlight, Molding under (3).JPG

Removed paint & rust spots, AP120 wash, POR at point fastens tip points, three coats of self etching primer with water sanding before last coat, 4 coats of base color and 4 coats of clear coat.
Paint under headlight (3).JPG
Paint under headlight (4).JPG
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005.JPG

They look good if I do say so myself...
 
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I pulled the four locking lugs, replacing with new none locking lugs.

Lugs get beat up by tire shops using loose SAE instead of 22mm sockets and impact wrench, then start getting surface rust. They are still serviceable just not very pretty. I could replace after new tire installed, so their socket doesn't damage.

What do you think, should I replace the other 16 lugs for $50 extra?
018.JPG
019.JPG
 
I pulled the four locking lugs, replacing with new none locking lugs.

Lugs get beat up by tire shops using loose SAE instead of 22mm sockets and impact wrench, then start getting surface rust. They are still serviceable just not very pretty. I could replace after new tire installed, so their socket doesn't damage.

What do you think, should I replace the other 16 lugs for $50 extra?
View attachment 1494183 View attachment 1494184


I'm on to this as well don't want the hassle of loosing locking nut and then big issues.
 
Great work coming along nice.Do you find if you paint plastic mouldings,bumpers or skirting it's very hard to match the paint compared to the steel body. I know cars over 10 years old so paint wont be exactly same ,but have found this using Golden pearl on my Lx plastics more difficult.
 
Put the bumpers, headlights and molding back on. Here's after and before for comparison. Hood seal isn't on yet, waiting on new OEM fasteners.
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006.JPG
Headlight lense.JPG

Great work coming along nice.Do you find if you paint plastic mouldings,bumpers or skirting it's very hard to match the paint compared to the steel body. I know cars over 10 years old so paint wont be exactly same ,but have found this using Golden pearl on my Lx plastics more difficult.
It's not possible to match with new paint period. In above picture under headlight molding (that I painted) looks like a match, it's not perfect. Aged factory painted Hoods are very hard to find, side molding is impossible, bumpers on the other hand aren't hard to find at all.

I've never painted bumper, but have had done under insurance claim on The King (my 01). New paint matched ok but it was only three years old. With Snowy I'll not be painting or doing anything unless I find (in time for my schedule) recycle bumper in same color. Only way to get color match is with age factory paint of recycled parts. Many people have bumpers setting in backyards after removing to armor up. It's a matter of finding, which takes time. I've one rear bumper in my back yard now, but which paint is in better condition is debatable. I'm waiting on a front bumper, but Mud member that promised to me is missing in action.

As far as side molding they all seem to lose color (especially silver's) in the center strip and end up a light color silver. Many school of though, which makes choice a personal preference:
Do nothing, it's a land cruiser.
Fade the center strip of side molding end to end, with urethane & clay bar. This yields it's own look.
Paint just center strip don't worry about perfect match, you can even change color to yield it's own unique look.
Paint entire molding, but bumpers will not match (nor body in mono color).
Paint bumper and molding, then all plastic matches, this means body shop time. Cost on this runs from $1K to $2K depending on shop.

Wrap can be substituted for paint, yield it's own look and is easy changeable to personalize time and time again.

Then their is the grille, these get pitted over time.
It's often painted black which seems most common, but colors matching (near match) to bumper or body is also cool, so is chrome color. So again a personal preference item but not a perfect match.

So many choices, which boils down to person preference. Perfect match to body color is not a choice and perfect match to all molding means coating all at same time.

With Snowy it's a matter of if a better bumpers & grille become available ans/or me re-coating grille & molding if time allows within my time frame. This is personal preference not structural issues or mechanical and so must take a low priority in what I do.

I've mechanical parts on the way and will be switch into that direction as they arrive. I've spent 45 days detailing which is much more than I budgeted for and I must move on. I'll come back to detail as time allows over next 45 days.
 
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