Scored 2006 LC w/194K AHC (untouched Jewell restoration)

[2001LC]

Starter & A.I.R. pump was a big project.

The 2007 FSM instructed me to pull the rear by-pass water joint. It didn't say or show the two A.I.R. switching valves are attached to the water by-pass joint. Or give best way to pull the assembly (bypass & A.I.R switches). The reason it has us pull rear water by-pass, is, it makes getting at the two starter bolts much easier. Also the wire harness housing bolt is blocked. The advantage to this approach is changing the gasket is easier with intake off. Interesting was that Toyota Dealer had this gaskets. They told me they go through a lot, doing T-belt jobs. Now that got me wondering!

But it is not necessary to pull all that extra stuff. Just pull the two starter mounting bolts that go through back of block. Then pull starter forward, until wire housing bolt can be removed. Then rotate so that starter wire can be removed. It's a PITA job getting at the rear bolts, just a little more so with the two No 2 switches. More so than in older series 100.

It's also necessary to remove A.I.R pump and control valve out of the valley, to get starer to slide out. The hoses in this area are hard from heat and age, so it's best practice to replace these when removed.

Pulling starter without removing Water by-pass joint rear & the two switching valves:

Once intake manifold out of the way. Remove water cross over pipe.

Disconnect wire blocks, move hose clips to release large hose. Tip: grab hose with channel locks over pipe it's attached to and twist back and forth to break hose loose from pipe. Remove the two bolts and two nuts holding pump mounting plate the lift out.

 

[2001LC]

Next remove two bolt holding the starter with a 14mm socket from the rear.

Then pull forward and remove bolt hold wire housing:

Then twist until cover of starter wire can be opened, and wire removed:

 

[2001LC]

Now I'll show you the starter bolts with water by-pass and switches out of the way.

 

[2001LC]

If you decided to pull the water by-pass joint, leave the switches on. Just remove the two bolt on each side leading to tubes, and two vacuum lines. Then remove the water pipe's 4 nuts. Lift up on wire harness housing while lifting water by-pass joint working it out.

 

[Scoin]

Well consider its 0 miles on a PM basis. What do you think its worth?

Certainly every cent your getting. This thread has become my go to maintenance reference guide.

 

[2001LC]

A.I.R pump (New OEM) assembly and hoses (new OEM) install after starter. If water by-pass joint was removed, it's easiest to install it before A.I.R. pump assembly due to hose, but can be done later with flexible new hose.
Hoses are very hard from heat, but only starting to crack:

A quick test of switch:

Water cross over pipe from front water inlet is last with new O-ring. Note: lube O-ring with soapy water to install.

 

[2001LC]

New vacuum hoses under intake manifold was next.

One vacuum hose I didn't replace was that little curved vacuum hose, was not in my new parts stock and was a week or more out to get to ordered in (don't have the time). I tried to cut a piece for it, but it pinched at bend. Fortunate it's in good condition, didn't have cracks, was tight and soft. So I conditioned with rubber conditioner and installed.

Some I used OEM pre-cut.

Some I cut from OEM replacement hose.

 

[Muddy Bean]

This is the guy I want to buy my 200 series from. Can you please score a 2008 lx570 and give it your personal touch and then sell it to me? Lol

 

[Couvi]

You're work is phenomenal. If you had a youtube channel, I bet you'd have a hell of a lot of viewers.

 

[2001LC]

Next was new Fuel injectors installation into intake manifold. I had Chuck at FIS clean, rebuild and test old fuel injectors. Too my surprise he reported 5 leaking, and recommended replace all 8. He said Robbie in Boulder had a come back for hard start. They had serviced the fuel injectors and pulled to retest. They found them leaking after shut down. Chuck has since re-designed his test to do a long term leak down, this would not show on normal testing and would pass FSM test in most cases.

He blames this leak on bad gas, water in gas and the corn fuel added to gas. He suggest using guilty gas with full packet of additives. He also said adding additives like Chevron Techron a good idea. When any vehicle sit for prolonged period of time water enters, as fuel absorbs moisture. So other additive should be added like a atabilizer, like Sta-bil, Heat, etc... In aircraft as part of pre-flight we'd drain a little fuel from bottom of fuel tank with clear tube, until no water is visible. Water sit in bottom of tank, where fuel pump picks up. To bad we don't have a drain in our 100 fuel tanks.

Chuck told me Denso no longer makes our fuel injectors. He said; Standard Automotive bought the molds from Denso, and makes them. He supplied the 8 new Standard injectors at a fraction of what OEM Denso cost from Toyota Dealer (they still have some Denso in USA), also cleaned and test for a little extra charge. He's been finding the Standard don't work well out of the box, but are perfect once cleaned. He said "you can't tell the difference from Denso, they look a perform the same" other than need cleaning.

This is a new Standard Automotive from FIS. It has Denso molded on it and looks just like me old Denso.

Old OEM Denso vs new Standard's (blue top)

They also supply before and after picture. These are the new Standards before cleaning service:

After follow is perfect:

 

[2001LC]

You're work is phenomenal. If you had a youtube channel, I bet you'd have a hell of a lot of viewers.

Thank you so much for your kinda words. I posted the videos on youtube, so I could post here. I suppose it is a channel. It's really is time consuming to video, and now I need to find why it stops recording in 7 mins PITA (more time).

This is the guy I want to buy my 200 series from. Can you please score a 2008 lx570 and give it your personal touch and then sell it to me? Lol

I'm considering getting a 200 series just see what they're like.

But first will be my next project which is out front now calling me.

The King (my 01LC) is feeling neglected

 

[2001LC]

Here something I just learned. The 06/07 FSM shows a Groment at top of fuel injector. These grommet's where done away-with after 05. Yet FSM shows it. This is the second issue I've found wrong in the 07 FSM. They've taken old FSM and up-date for the VVTi and done a poor job at it. No grommet is not a big deal, which was used until 06 as a secondary protector of O-ring at top. This keep dust or liquid away from O-ring. I like the idea of that but it's not sold for the 06-07. I may add in future to VVTi I'd keep, to evaluate.

Anyway installing a new OEM Fuel Pressure Regulator, 4" HP fuel hose ($20) and 4 gasket (washers) for fuel rail to go with New Fuel injectors and insulators. These FPR are also being effected by water. The rust and is very had to detect, as they'll work differently at different temps.

 

[2001LC]

remember to wet O-ring of FPR before installing, twisting back and forth as you seat.

Of course I'm replacing intake to head gasket. This is something I think every VVti should have done, as they are leaking. New gaskets are thicker. Old gasket either shrank or new OEM are a redesign IDK.

I vacuum out my intake temp plugs and inspect ports carefully for foreign object (dust, sand, tools, nuts. etc..) as I vacuum out ports one by one.

I've drop nuts under intake before. PITA to fish out with sticky clay on coat hanger, so be careful during install.

 

[2001LC]

Naturally new throttle body gasket is used.

Both PVC hose are being refreshed for next 100K miles.

As is Air Filter for next 20K miles:

 

[YodatheLC]

Videos slow me down even more than pictures, but I'll see what I can do. First thing I need to do is find out why it camera shuts down just before I'm done at ~7:25 min:sec

Your videos are very helpful. Especially for those of us doing any serious wrenching for the first time

 

[2001LC]

Throttle body cleaned up well, so much easier of the intake.

I had for gotten the new fuel filters don't come with the green clip. When it was time to hook the fuel I panicked for two seconds. But I'm a pack rate when it comes to old parts, at least until job is done. Found it in my used pile of junk...sweet.

 

[jerryb]

Anyone reading... This starter replacement info for SAI vehicles is golden. This would have helped me save time and effort last year. I'm mad for cracking my yellow harness protector thing, and losing a 14m socket.

if someone is replacing the starter and thinking SAI bypass, it would be easier to put hewitt block off plates right there at the top.
Not for you Paul, just for others info.

 

[2001LC]

Brand new OEM set of 8 Coils from Toyota Dealer Parts Department, how cool is that.

Now generally we just wait until they go bad, but three looked as if they had gotten very hot. Heat is the number one killer of coils. Number one reason they get hot is wide spark plug gap. Spark plug gap widens as they age so good idea to replace at 90K (with T-belt) or sooner. History showed Snowy's spark plug were not changed until 150K miles the first time, that's to long. This may account for the three hot coils.

Old plugs & coils, can you pick the hot ones, two are easy:

New spark plug are already in:

Found that was PN change in Oct 2003 and my parts' guy said old coil PN (98-02) don't cross to the 06-07. Additionally the 06 has had undated PN, see last digit.

Got a little oil from AHC fluid when I had me pressure blow-off while replacing the PS shock, made a mess of my nice clean head cover.
New coils are in.

 

[2001LC]

Toyota had some clips I wanted, like this one that always seem broken.

This one my parts guy and I have been looking for for a 6 months now, no luck. So I tied it. It and the two below come with $1,110 wire harness (not sold separate that we've found). They are weak and break easy, I'd like to find replacement.
No 3 timing belt cover (DS upper)

Kept moving through engine compartment fastening and clipping.

Fasten the bracket on DS that fuel line VSV line connect to/through. I pull it to make getting at the #5 coil & spark plug easy.
The VSV line clip was ok on Snowy, but it is one we've been looking for since last year.

 

[2001LC]

Reconnected fuel pump wire housing under DS rear passenger door.

Cleaned the freshly charge battery, greasing the post.

Top the battery also, with about a table spoon of distilled water.