Scored 2006 LC w/194K AHC (untouched Jewell restoration) (2 Viewers)

[2001LC]

Adding coolant now. It takes a few cycles of cool down over night to get burped.

I bring reservoir to full line only on first fill. Next few mornings I'll top radiator, and bring reservoir up only to low line/cool

 

[2001LC]

Filling front differential (or in process now) with the 1.8 qts I've on hand. I'm leaving my allenwrench out on top work bench, to signal I'm not done yet and have not torque on new fill gasket (washer) yet. As I want to let settle at minimum 15 minutes, then top again or check level is no more then 5mm below fill plug. I had differential out and drained even the DS tube.

File hole is visible form the top side.

Squeeze bottle or cut air hole to speed up job.

Filled with gear lube while front was lower than rear. Hand tighten fill plug and leveled Snowy. Let sit while worked other stuff for a few hour (15min would have done fine), then unplugged fill plug. Torque in fill plug with new gasket (washer) once gear lube stop running out.

 

[2001LC]

I'll finishes up flushing/bleeding brake fluid and AHC tonight along with some other stuff. I wait a few days to change oil again, as it's only been in a 100 miles. I'm doing oil again because Snowy was not run on systematic in the past, so double flushing now.

It's been a month or so since it's run; oil, coolant are making there way thought the passages, new bearing and pumps all settling in. It's so sweet to hear it run. I've never worked so many systems before at one time, so was excited to hear. These VVTi always run high RPM on cold start, so don't make much of high RPM, it's normal.

One think I notice is oil pressure gauge is more responsive, oil sending unit was a good idea. Makes me want to change out temp sending unit.

I paced around Snowy for 15 minutes like a dance, as I do before each start up after a timing belt job in the 100 series 2UZ-fe....Sweet to hear it roar.

Second start engine warmed up. Fuel injectors are the tapping sound. They sound strong and balanced.

 

[2001LC]

Certainly every cent your getting. This thread has become my go to maintenance reference guide.

And then some....

I've got ~700 hours in this one.

Your videos are very helpful. Especially for those of us doing any serious wrenching for the first time

I'm so glad I can be of help, it makes it all worth it!

Anyone reading... This starter replacement info for SAI vehicles is golden. This would have helped me save time and effort last year. I'm mad for cracking my yellow harness protector thing, and losing a 14m socket.

if someone is replacing the starter and thinking SAI bypass, it would be easier to put hewitt block off plates right there at the top.
Not for you Paul, just for others info.

I thought the same thing.
But as you know it's not my cup of tea to alter these systems.

 

[afa]

Those videos are golden!! If you have the time please keep them coming.

 

[2001LC]

keeping eye on Power Steering HP hose & gaskets at union bolts for leaks.

Also top off power steering with some more M1 ATF and bleed by turning steering wheel stop to stop and holding at stop 3 sec, three time in each direction. Then did same with wheels on ground with engine running. Both procedures done slowly!

 

[2001LC]

Those videos are golden!! If you have the time please keep them coming.

Added one video to bottom of post #243. Just sounds really!

Took a very short test drive and runs, sound and handles great. I couldn't be happier.

It really has power, The King will feel weak after this one.

 

[2001LC]

Went over the paint with cutting (Correcting) compound again. Cutting in spots I worked chips with micro grinding out rust, self etching primer & touch up paint, or too remove fine scratches now revealed.

After cut:

Before

 

[2001LC]

Once final cut was done, then I installed windshield side molding. This sealed up rivet holes so I could wash before waxing without concerns for water entry into "A" pillars. I replaced both side, because last windshield installer really butcher the molding and "A" pillar paint not to mention drilled new holes. If that wasn't bad enough not even plugging old holes.

Before

Found and old very narrow rivet gun in my tool box, which fit into molding nicely. Using a piece of corrugated cardboard to keep shock of rivet setting snap/pop from cracking windshield.

 

[2001LC]

After waxing I installed final exterior molding pieces.

 

[2001LC]

Doing a final flush of AHC it's third, to get fluid to run clear. I found some contaminates in fluid from second flush. So with a homemade hydraulic fluid filter & pump, I filter fluid. So I actually flushed and bleed this AHC 4 times, with 7.5 liters total.
Second flush filtered at 125 microns.

Third flush

Final (fourth) flush after running through hydraulic filter, it's clear without contaminates.

My homemade filter. I used a WIX inline transmission filter. I'll not use WIX again as I did need to double filter fluid and company (WIX) can't give any info on filter's micron ability as they don't have the data, but it worked.

 

[2001LC]

I wire brushed each AHC bleeder and lightly coated with marine grease then wiped off and blew clean with compressed air.
After

before

I've also installed all new bleeder caps, this is key to health of bleeders and the socket they fit into (Globes & Accumulator)
I also cleaned screen.

After bleeding I blew out each bleeder to get out the few drops of fluid that remains, then installed the new bleeder cap. I then washed area around each bleeder to remove fluid residue.

Now I watch bleeds of AHC, brakes and all area I've worked (axles, engine and drive-train) for leaks or any issues.

I'll be tweaking AHC through Tech stream next, to finish up.

 

[jerryb]

what black sealant do you use on the rubber channel run under the wiper hard plastic bits?

thanks

 

[aging fleet]

View attachment 1521414

Next project teaser shot?

 

[2001LC]

what black sealant do you use on the rubber channel run under the wiper hard plastic bits?

thanks

I had some stuff windshield installer uses (i showed early on in thread) but switched to POR-15.

Next project teaser shot?

You saw that, did you,.... sharp eye.

 

[NorCalFJ100]

Great thread. Thank you @2001LC so much for all your time and commitment!!!!!!!!!

 

[2001LC]

Great thread. Thank you @2001LC so much for all your time and commitment!!!!!!!!!

Your welcome!

 

[2001LC]

This is example of what new looks like in test for play in differential mounting bushing. Also you'll see steering rack above cross over frame, watch form movement. First you'll here me shift from D to N to R and back multiple times. Watch front differential bushing as I shift. Next you here tires squeak on concert floor as I turn steering wheel slightly to right then left repeatedly. Watch for steering rack movement then.
All New OEM differential bushings, & All new aftermarket steering rack poly bushing (OEM rubber not available)

Old diff bushings

Old steering rack bushing
Steering Rack bushing LH 194K miles on them

All New Front drive shafts & hub flanges w/cone washers. Done with wheel bearing service, done right (nice and tight)
Front drive shaft & Hub Flange play, New OEM

History/records & inspection revealed; minimal wheel bearing service and done loose w/94K miles on them. This is "A "typical, is acceptable & serviceable but as you can see replaced (above video) with new is so sweet.
Front Drive Shaft to hub flange play D to N, N to R clunk

 

[2001LC]

Well I did final inspection on Snowy. I found two areas I'm tweaking.

First was front brake bleeders had drop on fluid behind bleeder cap. I found they both needed a 1/16th more turn tightening. I always start out with light torque and work my way up.

Second was ACH inspect with Techstream; I found pressure a little lite in fronts at 6.7-6.8. So i'm adjusting Torsion bars to put a little more weight of AHC sensors. I'm shoot for 6.9. Seem to light and rides a bit bouncy and to heavy and it's a bit firm. I like to get full range out of comfort control, which 6.9 seem to be sweet spot on fronts. @PADDO is my mentor here.

I'm head to get new tires today. Then tomorrow it off to the Toyota Dealer for air bag recall.

I don't for see any more parts needed at this time except new lugs I've standing by.

I'll clean Saturday and do some photo's before Snowy goes to his new home Sunday


299 parts:
My final count is in for parts and I'm at and astounding 299. Keep in mind I've used 14 fasteners for hood front seal, that is 14 parts, and each qt or gallon of lube or coolant is count as 1 each. Also shop supplies get counted as at least 1.

$6,720 total in after purchase cost.
This includes transport gas, food, title, cleaning, detailing, machine shop work and all parts. Some where my shop parts I assign wholesale value to. I get parts at good prices on most everything.

This is/was my finest restoration to date, runs so good like new...... SWEET!

I've got a few job to do for some mud members, that have been waiting. Then I'll start my next project. I hope winter is late, to give me some more warm days to work in garage.

 

[RootMeanSqr]

I haven't seen anything regarding checking valve clearances, is this something you check in your restorations? Just curious.