Scored 2007 Unicorn. The holy grail of 100 series. (1 Viewer)

[04UZJ100]

Awesome thread as usual.

What do the tubes from the exhaust manifolds actually do? Control the acoustic induction system? Does the gas get fed back into the intake like an EGR? Is it constant or only at certain throttle inputs?

If it doesn't get dumped back in the intake, where does it go? This is one of the key differences between motor generations, correct? Any thoughts on long term reliability.

Lots of questions I know but I am just curious. I'll be following along....

 

[2001LC]

Confused I would think a 2007 unicorn holy grail would also be a Lexus with AHC

I assume you mean without AHC. I've always considered the LX and LC with lipstick. So guess I'd call an LX no nav no AHC ...Unigal
As much as I like AHC, I'll still buy a Unigal if I found one!

If you wait around long enough Mr Paul, someone else will make that decision for you upon pre purchase. OR, what's the best return on any option. When looking at more obscure cars with replacement engines, the one with the new LB is more attractive than a high mileage used drop in. Not that this LC is that rarefied, but it is rare in itself.
I'd skip your add on a replacement engine with more miles than the chassis. (if I didn't know you sort of)
New is what I'd pay a 5k premium for.

I've consider that. Inpart it's one of the reasons I spent so much time looking at the USA factory, USA made engine along with parts.

But if that new OEM Long Block is USA made it could detract from the value. It's a very high chance it is, which I have to order one to find out.

I also looked into rebuilding including rings and piston, a negative popped up. Even if I blueprint the engine once cylinders honed, I increase ring end gap and side wall clearance. So rebuilding heads would be ok, lower end and I get a looser engine.

So to get tighter engine I'd need to go oversized, which Mr. T sells a 0.005 over piston & rings for our engine. Here's the rub, pistons may be USA made. Even if not USA made I'd be at the meacery of machine shop to bore to a perfect tolerance to give perfect ring gap & side wall clearance that I'd want.

In the end, the very best quality may well indeed be a used engine. We know they are great engine.

Awesome thread as usual.

What do the tubes from the exhaust manifolds actually do? Control the acoustic induction system? Does the gas get fed back into the intake like an EGR? Is it constant or only at certain throttle inputs?

If it doesn't get dumped back in the intake, where does it go? This is one of the key differences between motor generations, correct? Any thoughts on long term reliability.

Lots of questions I know but I am just curious. I'll be following along....

They connect to opening above exhaust ports of heads. Connect into the switch(s) you see attached to the rear water bypass joint. Then a hose connect to the pass through of water bypass to the main A.I. switch under intake. The AI pumps for only~90 seconds on cold start up. It just to reduce emission on start-up.

 

[04UZJ100]

Ohhhhh gotcha now....thanks

 

[Rolocado]

Pardon my ignorance but when it comes to the 2UZ, what's the difference between long and short blocks?

 

[2001LC]

The term "Short Block" doesn't include heads, long does. Long Block is only Short block & heads no bolt on stuff like manifolds etc..

 

[2001LC]

Work has been progressing slowly. But the pace will be picking up. I've been disassembling, inspecting, cleaning and recondition parts. I've had a steady stream of parts rolling in over the past few weeks started with a Lexus 06 GX470 w/98K engine.

I held-out as long as I could looking everyday locally for the replacement engine. But ultimately found a fresh engine out in WI, with as good a maintenance history from Lexus as one could hope for. The GX470 had timing belt, water pump, coolant and LOF done Dec 2017 ~600 miles before a fairly minor rear side impact totaled it. Strangely they didn't replace T-belt pulleys or tensioner. Interest only T-belt idler pulley was replace in the 07LC engine with Timing belt & water pump. For some reason these dealer on the Eastern half of the country don't feel they need replacing. I called both and they said these pulley's and the tensioner last forever.

So I've order new Tensioner and pulleys for Timing belt, as I'm not comfortable with old. I'm also replacing fan bracket and fan fluid clutch. Along with various gaskets and seals. In addition I'm having Fuel Injector Specialists - Home - Wheat Ridge, CO Clean, rebuild and test the fuel injectors and replace Fuel Pressure regulator as and extra.

Being a GX470 engine, I've had to swap out or replace many parts from the 07 LC engine or buy new OEM. Here a partial list:
Various wire housings.
Oil pick up tube (pan to pump).
Oil pan #1
Oil baffle
Oil pan #2
Oil dipstick.
Oil filter bracket
Oil cooler.
Hose from block to oil cooler.
Oil cooler front pipe and various hoses.
Motor mounts.
Main battery/starter wire harness.
Exhaust manifold
Main engine wire harness.
Fuel line (filter to fuel rail/damper device)


I've spent a great deal of time tearing down, inspecting, deciding what part I'll need, acquiring/order parts, parts and machine shop runs and checking/inspecting new parts.

Here's a parts plus stuff of about 250 items, which I'll come in at ~$6K before done. It will likely grow to around 300 items before done, and does included the swapped parts.

Machine shops Quantity Component

250 Total number of items Parts

var 150 Miles Miles driven for parts & Machine shop

3/21/18 1 Engine 2UZ-fe Vvti

4/2/18 1 Shipping Shipping

8/31/17 0.2 FSM Pro rata

1/15/18 0.5 Window wash Fluid top off from shop

Engine


4/6/18 1 17801-50040 Air filter element

Drive Belt

1 National 203-ff Bearing, tensioner dri belt

1/18/18 1 OEM Idler Pulley & bearing

Spark plugs

4/5/18 8 SK20R11 Denso SK20R11

Fuel

4/6/18 1 23300-50090 Fuel Filter engine compartment

3/22/18 1 77285-60540 Clamp,3 Fuel tubes below brake master

11/27/17 1 77169-33020 Gasket, Fuel Suction Plate (fuel pump to tank)

Fuel rail

4/6/18 1 23280-50050 Fuel Pressure Regulator 2004-07

8 23291-41010 2329141010 INSULATOR, INJECTOR VIBRATION

4/6/18 1 23232-41081 23232-41081 (GASKET (FOR FUEL PUMP HOSE to damper))

4/6/18 1 90430-12026 90430-12026 GASKET(Fuel hose to rail held damper union bolt)

4 90430-12026 90430-12026 GASKET(Fuel crossover pipe to rails) 4)

4/3/18 8 Fuel Injector Specialists - Home - Wheat Ridge, CO Fuel injector clean rebuild & test

Intake manifold

3/30/18 2 17171-50030 Gasket intake manifold to head (2)

4/3/18 1 22271-50050 Gasket, throttle body

Vacuum Hose

4/5/18 1 23829-50161 2382950161 HOSE, FUEL VAPOR FEED

4/6/18 3 90999-92003 Toyota Vacuum hose 2' section

AI

3/30/18 1 17342-50180 Hose AI No. 2 (longer RH water)

3/30/18 4 17377-50010 GASKET (4), AIR TUBE, NO.2 (switches)

3/30/18 2 17376-50010 GASKET (2), AIR TUBE No 1 (Exhaust)

Oil

3/30/18 1 15692-50020 O-ring (figure 8, filter bracket to oil pump)

3/30/18 1 90301-67004 O-ring (large FOR OIL COOLER)

3/30/18 1 15777-50030 Return Hose

1 Oil Filter M1 filter

Oil pan

4/5/18 6 5W-30 Advanced Auto syn for 15min warm up with ERP BG oil flush

9/1/12 8 M1 5w-30 Oil

3/30/18 1 90430-12031 Gasket, Oil plug Drain washer

3/30/18 1 96721-19010 O-ring, oil dip stick guide tube to pan

3/30/18 1 15147-50011 GASKET, OIL STRAINER (pickup tube)

3/30/18 1 00295-00103 FIPG 1207B Sub is 103

Exhaust

4/6/18 2 90080-43036 Pipe Gasket

4/6/18 1 17198-50010 GASKET, EXHAUST MANIFOLD TO HEAD, LH

4/6/18 1 17173-50030 Gasket Exhaust Manifold , RIGHT

4/6/18 16 90179-10070 16 Nuts exhaust manifold (non reusable). 9017910070

4/5/17 0.4 Optimum Gray FIPG

Timing Belt

4/5/18 1 13503-0F010 13503-50011 Idler pulley (Koyo

4/6/18 1 13505-0F010 13505-50030 Tensioner pulley assy (Koyo)

4/4/18 1 13540-50030 1354050030 Tensioner (Asisin BTT-505)

Alternator

1 27411-0A050 Pulley

PCV

4/6/18 1 12261-50070 Hose, PVC DS

4/6/18 1 12262-50080 Hose, PVC PS

Engine clips

90464-00301 Clamp, hold one line to another smaller line. PS front of engine

3/30/18 1 BG 109/115/208 oil flush, treatment & 44K

1 44K Can added to gas (shop can)

3 Coolant SSL pink 50/50

1 Dist. water Dist. water

1 08826-00100 Seal packing or equivalent (shop supplies pro rata)

4/5/18 1 90916-03100 Thermostat

4/5/18 1 16346-50010 gasket, Thermostat-Water inlet housing.

4/4/18 1 16210-50102 Clutch, fan May 05-07 VVTi (Aisin FCT-075) Amazons looks good

4/5/18 1 16307-0F010 Bracket, fan (Aisin FBT-002)

Radiator

1 CU2755 Spectra Premium

4/5/18 1 16401-67150 Cap

Heater tee's

4/6/18 2 87248-60460 Plastic OEM tee's

Water by-pass

4/6/18 1 87245-6A220 87245-6A220 HOSE, HEATER WATER, INLET A Bypass to tee inlet to core

4/6/18 1 87245-6A191 87245-6A191 HOSE, HEATER WATER, OUTLET B Tee out to bypass pipe

3/30/18 2 16341-50020 GASKET(WATER BY-PASS JOINT, REAR & front 2 each)

3/30/18 1 96761-24019 O-ring, PIPE SUB-ASSY, WATER BY-PASS

Drive train

3/16/18 1 Propeller shafts & spiders Grease shop supplies

Transmission

90301-15004 Ring, O (Transmission Case Adapter sub-assembly fill Plug)
1 35178-30010 Drain & level check washer

4/5/18 12 00289-ATFWS Qts. WS ATF

3/30/18 1 90080-31068 SEAL, OIL (FOR FRONT OIL PUMP) (old 90311-38083)

AHC

2.5 08886-81221 Suspension Fluid (2.5qts from shop)

9/28/17 5 49177-60010 AHC accumulator bleeder cap

Transfer case

3/16/18 2 90430-A0003 drain and fill washers

1.5 Qts. M1 75w-90.

Rear differential

3/16/18 2 12157-10010 drain and fill washers

3/16/18 3.6 Qts. M1 75w-90

Front differential

3/16/18 2 12157-10010 Gaskets, drain & fill washers

4/5/18 1 90311-47013 Axle seal, LH

4/4/18 1 90311-47027 Axle seal, RH

1.8 Qts. M1 75w-90

4/6/18 1 41651-60010 Cushion, Differential (front press in)

4/6/18 1 41653-60010 STOPPER DIFFERENTIA (front top cushion) (Febest TAB-334)

4/4/18 1 41653-60020 STOPPER DIFFERENTIA (RH rear top cushion) (Febest TAB-335)

2 90105-12240 90105-12240 Bolts, #3 crossmember plus side bracket (4)

Front Drive shaft

4/6/18 2 43430-60040 Axle Assembly

2 90521-34003 SNAP ring (DIFF SIDE GEAR INTERMEDDIATE SHAFT) 90521-34003

Steering knuckle

4/6/18 2 90316-A0001 Oil seal (inboard)

0.1 Shop Supplies grease

0.1 Shop Supplies Marine grease

Axle Hub / Wheel bearings

4/6/18 2 43421-60060 Hub Flange

2 43422-60070 Hub Flange gasket

2 90311-70011 Hub seal

4/6/18 1 90214-42030 Claw washer

2 90215-42025 Lock washer

4/6/18 12 42323-60030 cone washer

4/6/18 2 90520-31007 snap ring 2.4mm. Hub flange D

0.3 Shop Supplies Solvent

1 Shop Supplies Wheel bearing grease

Power steering

1 ATF Qts M1 MV full syn ATF

3/16/18 1 44327-30040 Hose & tube assembly LH gasket, Power steering HP line 03-07

3/16/18 1 44327-30030 Hose & tube assembly RH gasket, Power steering HP line 03-07

4/4/18 1 TAB-UZJ100-KIT Steering rack mounting bushings, (Febest rubber) Quality iffy)

4/6/18 1 17030-50150 Vacuum hose assemble

4/6/18 1 44348-60320 Power Steering Suction Hose

4/6/18 1 44412-60280 Power Steering Return Hose



Brakes

10/11/17 4 31478-30010 Cap, brake bleeder rubber cap

3/16/18 4 93319-15008 Screw w/washer ABS wire leads

3/16/18 4 94130-60500 Nut, ABS wire leads

Body

4/6/18 2 Hood Lifts Monroe Max Amazon

7/1/18 3 wash/cleaning Shop

10/5/17 1 Paint detail 1F7 Sliver

4/6/18 1 81561-60680 LENS & BODY, REAR COMBINATION LAMP, LH

Interior

1 Carpet Carwash shampoo at car wash

1 Driver floor mat stay & carpet grommet

HAVC

4/3/18 1 88891-60040 Cover, Cooler unit, face plate w/filter door hatch

4/3/18 1 88891-60060 Door, cooler unit face plate door

4/6/18 4 90948-01003 Cushion, link

4/6/18 2 94184-61001 Nut, link top

4/6/18 2 48820-60032 link w/bushing lower pressed in

4/6/18 2 48815-60111 Bushings, Stab Bar

4/6/18 4 48817-30010 cushions, link

4/6/18 2 90385-11021 Cushion, Bar to link

4/6/18 2 90560-10275 Collar, Bar to link

4/6/18 2 48815-26250 Bushings, w/AHC

Brakes

3 DOT 3 or $ synthetic

2 spacer, Rear Spring

I've pulled more parts from the Unicorn than I ever have from any rig, much-less all at once. I got stuff stuck in every nook and cranny.

 

[2001LC]

 

[2001LC]

 

[outdoorsman]

OMG that is a lot of OEM parts $$

That thing is going to be almost brand new.

 

[hickuptruck]

Damn $6k in parts! That cost more than my 2002 LX470 purchase price. That thing is going to be mint

 

[2001LC]

More parts in this week.

View attachment 1677087 Some filters for the cabin HVAC upgrade

Fuel injector (FI) back from FIS and all cleaned (needed), rebuilt and tested good. Somehow I only received 2 insulators in earlier order, so pick-up the other 6 while on parts run. These go at base of FI in intake manifold.

#3 crossmember bolts (2 of 4)

 

[2001LC]

I also decided to go with rubber bushing for steering rack & pinion mounts.

Previously I've used poly, which are said to last longer. But they a designed differently. With all ploy inserts and washer just placed on top and bottom. This means very easy to install as they do not need pressing in. Ploy also transfer more shock and vibration all the way through system, this I did not want. It's believed the poly will reduce life of steering rack, TRE and ball joints by increasing shock to them. They also transfer more road feel to drivers hands via the steering wheel.

The factory bushing use rubber housed in a metal cup, with a center steel bushing attached to washer/plates at top. The assemblies cup is pressed into rack. The rubber is bonded to the plates and cup. Rubber separation form the plate and or cup is the failure point of OEM mounting bushings. This separation yields a sloppy drive, wondering as one drives down the HWY. I find the wandering annoying, as minor steel wheel correction feel necessary. In really bad cases, the steering wheel lags after turning a corner. Toyota used rubber for a reason, so has been my desire to use OEM or OEM spec. Toyota will not sell us these bushing, as they consider to difficult a job. They will sell a new steering rack with them installed only.

So I turned to aftermarket.

First I purchased Febest a German Company from Amazon. These China made Febest, looked of poor manufacturing quality so I send back. The center bushing was tacked welded to top plate off center, no tapper on cup end and steel had different look. That may not make a big difference, but doesn't speak well of manufacture quality. So back they went with other Febest bushings I purchased.

I then purchased two other set from two separate parts of the country. They're identical and look good, so I keep both set and using one set on The Unicorn.

Febest looks like poor quality, sent them back to Febest via Amazon:

Unknown manufacture but look good and compare near identical to factory OEMs. Set of 4 in center are the new. 1 of used was from 06LC other 2 are from The Unicorn. Main difference is OEM center shaft to plate is two piece, the aftermarket is one piece. Only time will tell if rubber and bonding are the same, better or worst. But it will be keeping with factory mount design.

Notice one set left in picture have oval centers. These go on RH side (PS) of rack, round on LH (DS)

 

[2001LC]

I've not been getting as much work/play done as I like, due to weather (cold). But momentum is picking up as we get into spring. Most I've what I've done to date is disassembly, cleaning, inspecting, researching which mostly is for the purpose of parts acquisition. Parts acquisition take a great deal of time as anyone that has done it on a scale as this surely knows.

Now I'll start posting repairs.

I'll try to refrain from posting in order of work as i go. As I actually jump around from component to component based on factor such as parts availability, weather, getting out of way, because I'm in there and so on. I post more one area at a time. This will make following a procedure like power steering recondition, front differential bushing recondition, wheel bearing, etc. easier, and easier to focus on a signal job for those that care. I'll go back to OP and provide links to these subsection of work making finding for future reference easier as well.

I hope all find something useful. Please don't hasta to ask any question of procedure at hand. If you see something you feel I missed or could have done better, differently, more efficiently, etc. speak up. As I do learn more and more with each job and from the great enthusiast of the 100 series of this forum.

 

[Get outside]

What a great tread!!! Awesome job indeed! Where in CO are you? I want to be your next-door neighbor!

 

[Njck22]

Didn't see it explicitly, but are you getting new motor mounts? How worn out were the ones on the unicorn?

 

[2001LC]

What a great tread!!! Awesome job indeed! Where in CO are you? I want to be your next-door neighbor!

South Denver sub. Bring it!

Didn't see it explicitly, but are you getting new motor mounts? How worn out were the ones on the unicorn?

The engine mounts look & felt good, so not at this time. I tested by trying to move by hand while attached to block, very firm feel. What I did notice was cracking in rubber around edges, but no separation or splitting. It's a big piece of rubber that some minor cracking around edge I felt was normal. I'm going re visit before engine install.

Normal I test by with engine running, helper putting in gear, giving gas with foot on brake as I watch for engine movement (lift).

What do you guys think is it one of those "while your in there" for ~$125 ea., even though passes inspection?

 

[dace voit]

Considering that it's not a big job to replace the mounts later, the question is: when do you want to spend the money? You might not need to anyway. With all that's being done to the truck, it would be nice to have the mounts replaced since they're 11 years old if you have the money to do it...

"While I'm in there" can get pricey really quickly! BTDT!

 

[2001LC]

Yup, the while your in there it's only thirty bucks, adds up big.

 

[abuck99]

Installed those Fram carbon activated filters last year- wasnt impressed. I didnt notice any difference in air quality over the oem filters, in fact maybe less.

 

[2001LC]

Installed those Fram carbon activated filters last year- wasnt impressed. I didnt notice any difference in air quality over the oem filters, in fact maybe less.

Bummer!