Scored 2006LC w/194K GrayBeard

[2001LC]

A.I wires and housing are connected next. I often find clips broke. It's the heat in this area that is very hard on housings and clips. In this case the clip that holds wire housing to water pipe was bad. I had one available, so I replaced it. I'll find ties or high heat tape holding stuff in this are often. Anything to keep wire housing secure is just fine.

Front water bypass joint is installed next. Gasket on and ready for bypass joint front.

I also replaced the two vacuum lines that connect to rear No. 2 A.I switches. I use Toyota vacuum hoses. They are a perfect fit.

Next up is intake manifold. I had stuffed lint free towels in all open ports. I remove them with a shop vac. I then vacuum out all ports. I spend about 2 hours pre disassembly and and during assembly cleaning. This is to make as sure as I can. That no contaminates, mainly sand, gets into ports or removed if they did. Contaminates can and will causes damage. It can damage valve seats, cylinder walls and rings. This is number one reason for loss of compression after a starter job, on a seemly well maintain 2UZ-fe (filter and oil changes).

 

[2001LC]

I've attached smaller hoses to my shop vac to reach into ports to clean then. Using a flash light to really see in ports well. Trust me, it worth the extra time to keep as clean as possible.

Getting intake manifold cleaned and ready is next. I wipe out and blow out any dust that may have gotten in. Then install the freshly cleaned, rebuilt and tested fuel injectors.

Fuel injectors tested very good, just screens were a little dirty. Best set I've had FSI service for me.
Better atomization after service.

FIS gives many more pictures of various test they do, than I've posted.

After installing fuel injectors in manifold, I installed the intake manifold and torqued in.

Water inlet and throttle body up next.
I use only the Toyota 1282B FIPG here.

 

[2001LC]

Ball joint boots upper R&R.

I found the upper ball joints boots rip. The rip was on outside, which is compressed closed while vehicle in a neutral stance. So until I pulled steering knuckles, they didn't reveal themselves.

Some confusion on PN # for the upper boot. But this is the PN# that works. Side by side with old rip boot and new. Both end have same diameter holes. New is taller but some compress of old may account for that.

Cleaning and inspecting ball joint, they seem nice a tight.

I add a little grease and press up into cup of ball joint with my fingers. This just gets a very small amount of grease into the cup.

Once I've worked in as much grease as I can into cup. I add the entire package of grease that comes in kit.

Then slip on new boot
The kits come with a SS wire. I wrap wire around boot twice and twist end. Word of caution! Do not over twist the wire ends, or it will break the wire.

 

[2001LC]

Differential front side seals.

Whenever I replace front drive shafts (FDS), I replace the differentials seals on the fit into. It's just best practice as to have new seal seat with new FDS. It's 50/50 they'll leak if now.

After removing old seal, I wipe seal of any grim that may interfere with installing of new seal.

Then lube the seal with gear lube to insure it dose not bind during install. I've found a 2' long 3/4" oak stick, works very well to tap in the new seal. It allows me to comfortable reach and tap form outside the area. The oak is hard enough so it stop as it hits the steel face of diff seal area. This makes getting seal set flush and square easy. Squar or leave is very import to insure a good seal. Also not setting in to deep.

 

[2001LC]

Front Drive Shaft (FDS) install.


One seal in I grease the seal lip, so FDS slips in without binding. Very import to not knock seal in during install, grease aid here.

Next is prepare the FDS for install. So often the metal lips of dust shield is bent during shipping or when knuckle removed. Rather than return, I just straighten them. If not straighten they may rub on knuckle or it's seal. This rub sound, is often wrongly diagnosed as wheel bearing issue.

You can see my body dolly tool (hunk of steel w/curve) I used for straightening this seal guard.

Next is positioning inner snap ring, open end down.

I pick a point on outboard side FDS, that help orient snap ring open end down. This point is the front boot clamp. I orient it on top (up).

 

[2001LC]

I then use grease to hold the snap ring in place opened end down.

Now is the fun part, install of the FDS. Very important to us care and not displace the diff seal during install. As I slip FDS past the seal, I twist FDS CC & CCW just a little, to align splines of inner axle with those of diff.

In this video, I make it look so easy to snap in FDS seating it. It is, but most time takes a few very good tries. FDS is seated, when its dust cover just inside differential.


Notice how I have a piece of wood lying on LCA, and FDS rest on it. This is to keep the seal from being bent, which happens if it contact LCA.

 

[2001LC]

Knuckle, wheel bearing packing and wheel hub assemble. With new seals, gaskets, claw & lock washers, snap rings and grease caps.

Steering knuckles cleaned reconditioned, new seals and axle bearing and bushing packed with grease. I use Mobil One grease.

Wheel hub bearings packed and new seals.

 

[2001LC]

 

[2001LC]

 

[2001LC]

Snap of hub flange install.

 

[2020 Rocks]

Post 83-87 are more than FAQ worthy. This entire build should be moved there, IMHO, due to all of the great content. Thank you for taking the time to break down the details of each step, very helpful for others doing the same kind of work.

 

[2001LC]

I'll take that as a complement. Thank You!

FAQ threads are typically step by step of 1 component or job. These restore projects and work I do on others 100 & 200 series, I post, are a broad overview.

If you look in the first link in my signture, you'll fine many helpful links.

Seem those use phone to access can't see signture box, so I link here for those.

Master thread: Buying, PM & Advance Maintenance of 100 & 200 series.

I've been a Land Cruiser fan since 2001. I first found ih8mud in 2005. I've learned and still learning everyday from the many contributors of mud. Thank you all! First thing I learned is 100 series are tanks, that just keep going. But even tanks need maintaining. This thread is dedicated to...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[2020 Rocks]

I'll take that as a complement. Thank You!

FAQ is threads that are typically step by step of 1 component or job. These restore project and work I do on others 100 & 200 series, I post, are a broad overview.

If you look in the first link in my signture, you'll fine many helpful links.

Seem those use phone to access can't see signture box, so I link here for those.

Master thread: Buying, PM & Advance Maintenance of 100 & 200 series.

I've been a Land Cruiser fan since 2001. I first found ih8mud in 2005. I've learned and still learning everyday from the many contributors of mud. Thank you all! First thing I learned is 100 series are tanks, that just keep going. But even tanks need maintaining. This thread is dedicated to...

forum.ih8mud.com

Sorry, definitely a compliment. You are the 100 series whisperer.

 

[2001LC]

One side assembled, less brake work soon to come.

 

[2001LC]

Brakes, Rotor (brake disk) front.

One of these pads was only 2mm thick. Limit is 1 mm. But when doing a wheel bearing job, its best to replace pads when they're not expected to last another 30K miles, which is when next wheel bearing service is due. Or on vehicle machine of disk is required, to keep from pulling off wheel hubs again.

First up was machining of rotors (brake disk). In this case I installed rotors I had machined in advanced, onto wheel hubs. This was done while wheel hubs were off and bearings out. I always have rotor disk machined when replacing pads. The pads last long and no issue with brake noise or pulling when this is done. It does then becomes very important to "bed-in" pads on first drive.

I like to clean wheel hub and rotors really well with solvent and power wash. Then soak hub bolts and area rotor fits on hub, with penetrating oil. This makes removing bolts and separation all that much easier.

I then remove the bolts holding rotor on wheel hub and pound out of rotor. I pound out by placing rotor on wood blocks, leaving room below wheel hub so it can drop out. I use a 2lb plastic (brass or wood block) hammer so not to damage wheel hub, to pound evenly on wheel hub, knocking out of rotor.

Rotor disk machine turned and ready to install on wheel hub.

Using wheel/tire makes great holder, while removing bolts that secure rotor or torquing back in.

 

[2001LC]

Pads, Brakes front.

Old pads vary in thickness. So we look for thinnest, to make call if the set front or rear is going to be replaced. In this case only fronts are of concern.
Front.

New OEM pads and slide pins front.

Rears pads thinnest was 4.71mm. For me that's about 25Kmiles or more. Rear pads are much easier, in that rotor come off easily. That is no wheel bearings to deal with.

 

[2001LC]

Wheel speed sensor (ABS sensor) RH front.

During disassemble I found the RH wheel ABS speed sensor housing, had previously be broken. This happens when speed sensor is frozen in. Than someone use force to try and remove by pull or prying on bracket and it breaks. They often work fine even though broken mounting housing broken, but for how long. Earlier I should how I tap out. It was and is working. But that is not to spec. So I replaced it. To keep from freezing in wheel hub again. I de-rusted and grease the hole it's mounted in. I do that wheel all knuckle services.


Wheel speed sensor RH

 

[2001LC]

Brake master.

Brake control wire.

I've found a correlation between early booster motor failure due to commutator wearing prematurely, and corrosion on the brake control wire. My theory is, as resistance in the wire goes up, due to corrosion. That, the increased resistance, negatively effects to commutator of the booster motor. That the wire or rather it's connection points within the boots. Become corridor due to brake fluid getting in the boot. Brake fluid been hygroscopic nature attacks moisture. That this is due to over filling of the reservoir in most cases.

When I inspect a 100 series, I've added inspecting of the brake control wire under the boots. I'm likely only one that does this. If I find corrosion, I replace the wire. In doing so, it gives me the opportunity to inspect inside the motor.

The brake control wire at retail counter of Toyota Dealership, can be as much as $375 plus tax.

Replacing the wire, may increase motor speed. This can increasing pressure in brake booster system. Older system, especially those not frequently flushed, may not handle the increase pressure well.
What we're seeing is the internal seal inside brake master failure. This seal is behind the plungers & seals, deep in master. The brakes still work. But the loss of pressure due to old weak seals, may cause booster motor to run to long. We see this more in cold weather. If we also get a screeching sound and bubbles reservoir associated with that sound. The master needs replacing to stop this IMHO. We do have some seals, we can replace. But I've learned we've that seal deep in master that can't be replaced. At least, I've not found a way to replace it other than new master. If motor runs to long or continuously, it will wear out motor prematurely.

Loss of pressure is the only reason, I've seen, we loose brakes. Motor failing to run, is the number one reason we loose pressure.

Brake control wire corrosion seen, with brake master on the bench.

After soaking screws & nuts with penetrating oil overnight. I was able to remove 3 of the 4 screws. One needed drilling out. I start by drilling a small pilot hole in center of screw.

Then increased drill bit size and drill off head of screw.

Someone

 

[2001LC]

Once head off, I keep removing material, so nut slips out from under the attached lead. They (lead under ABS unit)) can be bent up, but may not lock back in as well afterwards. As it has tabs that are going into plastic.

Lead on motor are easily bent up to remove nuts.

Then I clean up wires leads. Some brushing required, but spray works well. I think soaking in penetrating oil help loosen corrosion, making spray more effective.

Motor can be removed before new wires installed, or after if leaving face plate on pump.

 

[2001LC]

Brake flush.

I'll just post some stock pictures here's.

I'll start by filling reservoir in this case, since I dump all fluid from reservoir while master off. If reservoir had old fluid, I would've pump out old through rear caliper bleeders.

Starting at front I have helper pump brake pedal 20 with IG key on. Then helper hold pedal down as I open and close bleeder. Pedal is keep down until bleeder closed. Once bleeder closed, help now pumps pedal 5 time and holds down. I then open and close bleeder again, as flow of fluid stops. Fronts we only get a little fluid from bleed each cycle.

I then move to rears. With rear bleeders we only need hold brake pedal down while IG key on. We then open the bleeder and fluid pumps out as long as bleeder open. So no need to pump the brake pedal. When I want to drain down reservoir, I do it from rear bleeders this same way as bleeding

Key is to keep fluid level in reservoir at or above low line, withing reason. We just do not want to allow air in by running reservoir dry. Having a bleeder open as brake pedal released, would also draw in air, which we do not want. So brake pedal is held down until bleeder closed, always!

Once bled, I run a test to see if system holding pressure. Test is to pump brake pedal 40 time w/IG key off. Then top reservoir. Then time how long booster motor runs once IG key turned to on. We're look for 30 to 40 seconds. Over 40 seconds FSM states re-bleed to remove air. But I find very often it's a leak. Leak is at bleeds very often. More of a weep than a leak really. It can be very hard to find the weepers. I use brake cleaning fluid along with HP air to clean and air dry all bleeders. Then active hard braking, to reveal weepers. It may just show as a tiny amount on one or two threads of a bleeder. I'll increase torque from 9ft-lbf up time up to 11 or 12ft-lbf, 1ft-lbf at a time. If bleeder will not stop weeping by 12ft-lbf, I replace the bleeder with new OEM, in an OEM caliper.


Number one reason I have issues with weepers; is missing bleeder rubber caps. Moisture gets in and cause rust on/in bleeder and it's seat in the caliper. It can ruin a caliper just from a missing bleeder cap. So once done, I dry out bleeder and cap.