SBC Rams Horn Exhaust Manifold Connection to Downpipe (1 Viewer)

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Well, I've been working on a new exhaust for my SBC FJ40. I purchased some Dorman 2-1/2" outlet rams horn manifolds. I want to run a single exhaust this time instead of the dual exhaust that is being replaced. I've also been wanting to build this system myself instead of farm the work out to a muffler shop. It seems that those running the smaller rams horn manifolds are able to purchase a 2 into 1 primary pipe setup from a few sources. However, I have been unable to find any that advertise 2-1/2" pipes. Brzezinski Racing Products sells a kit for 2 into 1 for these manifolds but their application is primarily track oriented with the exhaust coming over the bellhousing. Their prices are a bit on the high side as well.

I've mocked up an exhaust pipe layout to see what I may need in building the system. Here are a few shots of what I came up with.

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The two pipes on top of each other are actually going to be a 2-1/2" to 3-1/2" merge collector that will go to the muffler and tail pipe.

This arrangement leaves plenty of clearance to remove the oil filter.

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Where I've hit a bit of a snag is in the connecting the pipes to the manifolds. I'd like to go a gasketless arrangement like the Brzezinski parts but don't want to spend the $150 for their kit. It uses a steel ring with matching 45 degree angle that matches the exhaust manifolds. An idea I had was to use the male side of a 2-1/2" ball joint exhaust fitting instead.

In making my PVC mock-up they didn't fit 100 percent straight and true with the manifold outlets. A ball joint connection would allow for slight angle changes where needed when using prefabbed 90 degree bent pipes. I've found a Mopar parts supplier who sells a ball joint kit for Mopar headers but not sure if it would work. My thought is that the male ball joint end would seal against the 45 degree exit of the exhaust manifold and simply be held in place with the 3-bolt flange.

Has anyone else tried or used this type of setup with success?
 
In the same boat, hate having to bring to the exhaust shop. I have found some corvette down pipe j bend applications?
 
I just found another part that looks like it will work.

Adapter.jpg


$25 @ I can live with, just waiting for response from company since they list it as flared for 3" pipe. I want to make sure it will work with 2-1/2" without any issues or see if they have one specific to the size I need.
 
Well I think I just found my solution. It's a product called Header Buddy from Purdee Industries. Here are a few pictures:

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I ordered AHB4 which is for 2-1/2" inlet and 2-1/2" outlet.
 
if you can put a bit of a kink in the cross over pipe instead of going straight across to reduce the amount of heat transferred into the oil in the oil pan bowl things get pretty hot under there



exhaust2.jpg
 
I see what you mean about more bend, a couple of 45 degree section could replace the 90 on the drivers side and allow the crossover to go further forward. Here is the clearance I saw when putting this together.

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I'm still shopping around for my pipe. Looks like I'll go aluminized as I'm not comfortable tig welding on stainless for my first attempt, too expensive if I mess up. :(

The pipes I've been looking at have between a 4" and 5" radius. To balance out the lengths a little I can run the drivers side down under the passenger side pipe to make it a little longer. Most seem to feel that length isn't an issue, it's just me liking things to be as even as possible.
 
If you tig stainless pipe it really should be purged inside with argon under a slight flow - which takes either two tanks/regs , a tee fitting and two regs or a dual-head regulator , none of which are cheap to do . I've got a tee for mine to do jobs like this , sure helps a lot on anything that's hollow even on steel and aluminum .
Sarge
 
If you tig stainless pipe it really should be purged inside with argon under a slight flow - which takes either two tanks/regs , a tee fitting and two regs or a dual-head regulator , none of which are cheap to do . I've got a tee for mine to do jobs like this , sure helps a lot on anything that's hollow even on steel and aluminum .
Sarge

I've started to assemble the gear just not there yet. Another reason I'm going to MIG aluminized and then paint over the weld. I thought about just doing butt welds but saw some video of the welds inside the pipe and figured that a welded slip joint will produce a smoother inside finish.
 
Thanks for posting this "how to". I will soon need to do the same thing. I just purchased Dorman 674-503 & 674-504 Ramhorns.
 
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Here is mine, tucks up tight but alot of bends and welds...the collector is a 4-3 in reducer squashed oval, has 1 in clearance to the oil filter and about 3/4 to the frame...ohh and i have block huggers. I can get a better pix tomorrow, its out as I am redoing the motor mts..
 
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just happen to have a pic of the one on my fj40 as well, its 2" off the block huggers into a single 3" pipe. I used to have a cross over the same on my fj75 but that went out 5-6 years ago when it got a new engine and twin pipes

exhaust1.jpg
 
If you bent it forward and run it across at the front of the oil pan you can get it up higher for more clearance, if heat is a issue wrap the crossover with header wrap, i left a good inch between the pan and pipe for air flow.

Just make sure the axle hits the bumps before it hits the exhaust...

Good luck I built my own because everything i saw from a shop looked like crap and they wanted too much $$$$,

Ohh if you dont have some use .023 welding wire it is alot easier for welding exhaust..
 
View attachment 1021805 Here is mine, tucks up tight but alot of bends and welds...the collector is a 4-3 in reducer squashed oval, has 1 in clearance to the oil filter and about 3/4 to the frame...ohh and i have block huggers. I can get a better pix tomorrow, its out as I am redoing the motor mts..


Yours is similar to the configuration I'm trying to build just with shorter passenger to drivers side pipe.
 
With the ram horns you are going to have a harder time tucking it up like i did. The pix on pirate are a good example . The block huggers allowed me to run the passenger side the way i did, with ram horns you are going to have a hard time stacking them past the oil filter inside the frame rail..

Get some j bends and an expander and star cutting.. good luck..
 
So here is mock up version 2 using 45 degree angle fittings which are closer to actual 90 degree exhaust pipes. They also allow the jog in the drivers side pipe to route it under the passenger side crossover.

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I kept the dimensions the same with regard to the passenger side crossover to the exhaust manifold. The drivers side is now below the crossover and I like the fact it is longer. It's actually 2" taller right now but I will adjust the height as needed during the final build. Sectioning 1" out of the 2 45's in the middle of the forward bend should do it.
 
That looks good i like that, you might even be able to get the drivers side out of one j bend, on the crossover just make sure you have enough clearance to the pan for air flow..
 
I see what you mean about more bend, a couple of 45 degree section could replace the 90 on the drivers side and allow the crossover to go further forward. Here is the clearance I saw when putting this together.

View attachment 1021625


I'm still shopping around for my pipe. Looks like I'll go aluminized as I'm not comfortable tig welding on stainless for my first attempt, too expensive if I mess up. :(

The pipes I've been looking at have between a 4" and 5" radius. To balance out the lengths a little I can run the drivers side down under the passenger side pipe to make it a little longer. Most seem to feel that length isn't an issue, it's just me liking things to be as even as possible.

Had mine made out of aluminumized pipe when I swapped in the SBC in 1996, I figured I'd replace them in a few years with a Y pipe when I had more money in my budget. They're still solid as can be... Forget stainless, I'd use aluminumized and get on with other more important things.
 

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