say no to the twin stick (1 Viewer)

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Apr 16, 2003
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I am sure that someone else has figured this out but i will run it by you all anyway. Go out to you garage and take off the transfer shifter boot. Look in there w/ a flashlight and see the metal bracket that supports the shift lever. There is an L shaped cutout for the shifter to travel in. Now, get your sawzall and slice the metal at the top of the L down away from the transmission (toward the side of the cruiser). Once you've made the cut sufficiently far (about 1/16" past where the bottom of the L extends), put the transfer in 4x4 high. I used a mig welder but you could use a torch, get the piece that is in between the cut and the bottom of the L cherry red. Quickly put the transfer in 2x4 high and pull the lever hard toward the low range. This will bend the metal out of the way and you will now be able to select 2x4 high and low and 4x4 high and low and it took like 25 minutes and was free. Best part about it, if you bent it and didn't cut it all the way off, you can simply heat it up again to bend it back and then shoot a weld onto it to return it to the old way. :) :beer:
 
Just take the bracket off altogether, only three bolts, and there is really no reason for it to be there save for if somebody were to kick your t-case shifter really hard.
 
Mine already shifts this way (I think the plate is gone)--what use is 2x4 low, other than maybe some short towing? How much more likely are you to bust something with it in 2x4 low? All the torque of low, going out the rear?
 
I say "Birfield Saver". :D

You are locked front and rear, tight trail, need to turn around and go back, need the control of LOW range, don't want to risk a birfield breakage. Use 2wd LOW to get turned around. It's a simple push forward on the t-case lever to get into 2wd LOW.

A very good mod to any FJ40 that is locked FT/RR. "Birfield Saver" mode, 2wd LOW.

Jody.
 
[quote author=Jman link=board=1;threadid=7274;start=msg61189#msg61189 date=1068482057]
Mine already shifts this way (I think the plate is gone)--what use is 2x4 low, other than maybe some short towing? How much more likely are you to bust something with it in 2x4 low? All the torque of low, going out the rear?[/quote]

I run mine all the time in 2wd low....reach an obstacle where 4wd might be needed, pull the lever, pass the obstacle, back to 2wd low. Easier steering, less stress on internals as you turn (remember, all 4 wheels create a different arc)

Also, for people who tow bar their rig, 2wd neutral is the way to go. With the stock configuration, when you put the rig into neutral, you also engage the front drive inside the t-case, and as the rig moves, the rear axles, reardriveshaft, t-case internal gears, frontdriveshaft, front diff/inner axles, front birfs, etc ALL spin (even tho the lockouts are not locked) Lots of added wear...2wd low allow only the rear bearings and rear driveshaft to spin.
 
[quote author=Outback link=board=1;threadid=7274;start=msg61194#msg61194 date=1068482631]
I say "Birfield Saver". :D

You are locked front and rear, tight trail, need to turn around and go back, need the control of LOW range, don't want to risk a birfield breakage. Use 2wd LOW to get turned around. It's a simple push forward on the t-case lever to get into 2wd LOW.

A very good mod to any FJ40 that is locked FT/RR. "Birfield Saver" mode, 2wd LOW.

Jody.
[/quote]


Ahh, okay---I just try not to get into those situations. :D I'm not locked, and I don't tow, but now I get it. I'll try 2wd low on the trail next time, Woody. Never had that much problem with 4wd low, but I've got PS and weeny tires. :cheers:
 
To prevent an :whoops:, I add the following caveat to this thread. Now that you have 2wdLo, all that available torque will be fed to a single axle instead of two....A heavy right foot can wreak havoc on many parts at this point. Not that I've done it mind you, but I sure don't want to either. Just use aplomb and finesse and you'll drive many a day! Better to be cautious than :slap: YMMV. :cheers:
 
2-LOW burnouts.....YEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE HAW! :D
 
Is it easier to remove the plate than to melt it? This sounds like a great idea.
 
I dont think you can get at all the bolts easily. I guess if you are double jointed you could though. i did my mod through the shifter hole in 25 minutes counting the time it took to get all the tools out and put away.
 
They do look cool and i think i will eventually make a set up that runs off two sticks. It will be easy with a spare tranny in my basement to prototype from
 
RooX said:
do you have eny pic's of this mod


2Lo + puts torque to both rear wheels. You can get through a lot of obstacles like this and steer like a champ!

Yes:
MVC-764F.JPG
 
mudduck said:
Yeah....but the twin sticks look cooler! :cheers:

I definitely agree, I got the twin stick kit from AA.
 
wildman4wheeler said:
any chance this could work on a fj 60 have not had time to look?
thanks


Exactly the same other than the shift boot is a little different. Have done this on the 60 as well as the 40 and love it off-road.
 

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