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say no to the twin stick

Discussion in '40- & 55-Series Tech' started by cavsfj40, Nov 8, 2003.

  1. cavsfj40

    cavsfj40

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    I am sure that someone else has figured this out but i will run it by you all anyway. Go out to you garage and take off the transfer shifter boot. Look in there w/ a flashlight and see the metal bracket that supports the shift lever. There is an L shaped cutout for the shifter to travel in. Now, get your sawzall and slice the metal at the top of the L down away from the transmission (toward the side of the cruiser). Once you've made the cut sufficiently far (about 1/16" past where the bottom of the L extends), put the transfer in 4x4 high. I used a mig welder but you could use a torch, get the piece that is in between the cut and the bottom of the L cherry red. Quickly put the transfer in 2x4 high and pull the lever hard toward the low range. This will bend the metal out of the way and you will now be able to select 2x4 high and low and 4x4 high and low and it took like 25 minutes and was free. Best part about it, if you bent it and didn't cut it all the way off, you can simply heat it up again to bend it back and then shoot a weld onto it to return it to the old way. :) :beer:
     
  2. wngrog

    wngrog SILVER Star

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  3. willsta2000

    willsta2000

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    Just take the bracket off altogether, only three bolts, and there is really no reason for it to be there save for if somebody were to kick your t-case shifter really hard.
     
  4. hammerhead

    hammerhead

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    I think this is in Tech Links. :)
     
  5. Jman

    Jman

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    Mine already shifts this way (I think the plate is gone)--what use is 2x4 low, other than maybe some short towing? How much more likely are you to bust something with it in 2x4 low? All the torque of low, going out the rear?
     
  6. Outback

    Outback

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    I say "Birfield Saver". :D

    You are locked front and rear, tight trail, need to turn around and go back, need the control of LOW range, don't want to risk a birfield breakage. Use 2wd LOW to get turned around. It's a simple push forward on the t-case lever to get into 2wd LOW.

    A very good mod to any FJ40 that is locked FT/RR. "Birfield Saver" mode, 2wd LOW.

    Jody.
     
  7. woody

    woody unhelpful spotter Staff Member Admin

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    [quote author=Jman link=board=1;threadid=7274;start=msg61189#msg61189 date=1068482057]
    Mine already shifts this way (I think the plate is gone)--what use is 2x4 low, other than maybe some short towing? How much more likely are you to bust something with it in 2x4 low? All the torque of low, going out the rear?[/quote]

    I run mine all the time in 2wd low....reach an obstacle where 4wd might be needed, pull the lever, pass the obstacle, back to 2wd low. Easier steering, less stress on internals as you turn (remember, all 4 wheels create a different arc)

    Also, for people who tow bar their rig, 2wd neutral is the way to go. With the stock configuration, when you put the rig into neutral, you also engage the front drive inside the t-case, and as the rig moves, the rear axles, reardriveshaft, t-case internal gears, frontdriveshaft, front diff/inner axles, front birfs, etc ALL spin (even tho the lockouts are not locked) Lots of added wear...2wd low allow only the rear bearings and rear driveshaft to spin.
     
  8. Jman

    Jman

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    [quote author=Outback link=board=1;threadid=7274;start=msg61194#msg61194 date=1068482631]
    I say "Birfield Saver". :D

    You are locked front and rear, tight trail, need to turn around and go back, need the control of LOW range, don't want to risk a birfield breakage. Use 2wd LOW to get turned around. It's a simple push forward on the t-case lever to get into 2wd LOW.

    A very good mod to any FJ40 that is locked FT/RR. "Birfield Saver" mode, 2wd LOW.

    Jody.
    [/quote]


    Ahh, okay---I just try not to get into those situations. :D I'm not locked, and I don't tow, but now I get it. I'll try 2wd low on the trail next time, Woody. Never had that much problem with 4wd low, but I've got PS and weeny tires. :cheers:
     
  9. 1Fine40

    1Fine40 Rust Buster SILVER Star

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    To prevent an :whoops:, I add the following caveat to this thread. Now that you have 2wdLo, all that available torque will be fed to a single axle instead of two....A heavy right foot can wreak havoc on many parts at this point. Not that I've done it mind you, but I sure don't want to either. Just use aplomb and finesse and you'll drive many a day! Better to be cautious than :slap: YMMV. :cheers:
     
  10. FJ60

    FJ60

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    2-LOW burnouts.....YEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE HAW! :D
     
  11. Archengine

    Archengine

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    Is it easier to remove the plate than to melt it? This sounds like a great idea.
     
  12. cavsfj40

    cavsfj40

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    I dont think you can get at all the bolts easily. I guess if you are double jointed you could though. i did my mod through the shifter hole in 25 minutes counting the time it took to get all the tools out and put away.
     
  13. wildman4wheeler

    wildman4wheeler

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    any chance this could work on a fj 60 have not had time to look?
    thanks
     
  14. mudduck

    mudduck

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    Yeah....but the twin sticks look cooler! :cheers:
     
  15. cavsfj40

    cavsfj40

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    They do look cool and i think i will eventually make a set up that runs off two sticks. It will be easy with a spare tranny in my basement to prototype from
     
  16. RooX

    RooX

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    do you have eny pic's of this mod
     
  17. mytoy

    mytoy

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    yes do you have any pic's
     
  18. PabloCruise

    PabloCruise

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    2Lo + puts torque to both rear wheels. You can get through a lot of obstacles like this and steer like a champ!

    Yes:
    MVC-764F.JPG
     
  19. nat

    nat

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    I definitely agree, I got the twin stick kit from AA.
     
  20. oilcan

    oilcan

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    Exactly the same other than the shift boot is a little different. Have done this on the 60 as well as the 40 and love it off-road.
     
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