SASing my 100 (2 Viewers)

[hoser]

As for Ackerman, it's not ideal for every situation and a lot of race vehicles use parallel steering or even anti-Ackerman. But most, modern stock vehicle use Ackerman. If you don't, I think the worst thing that will happen is your low speed turning radius will suck because the two front wheels will be fighting which turning radius to follow. If you add high speed to the equation, the two front wheels will have different slip angles and so "Ackerman" isn't really correct either.

Side note: if you follow the Cybertruck, it is the first production vehicle I know of with steering by wire, steering. With no mechanical link, I suspect, in the future, we'll be see dynamic Ackerman as well, based on speed/grip etc.

 

[ericbauer]

side note side note : there are videos online showing the delay the front wheels have to steering input ... just another reason to stay away ...

 

[hoser]

There are delays in drive by wire too.... by design and easily adjustable (i.e. pedal commander). I'll argue that if one could actually turn the steering wheels lock to lock in less than half a steering wheel turn, in a split second, you would certainly upset the balance of any vehicle at freeway speed. Those videos are also at 0mph. This is not a steering system I desire for a Land Cruiser but cool nonetheless. I'm happy to discuss on a new thread...

 

[RustyLinkz]

I’ve tried fussing around to get the tie rod to fit in the near hole for proper ackermann. The 2” diameter rod doesn’t like that tight of a fit. Pics to follow.

With the tie rod underneath the steer arm, it won’t fit because it contacts the drag link (also only fits under the arm) as well as contacting the front of the diff housing.

On top of the steer arm it contacts the panhard axle bracket. I cannot move the panhard axle bracket further back because then the panhard/ track bar will contact the diff cover on top as well as contacting the oil pan on full stuff/ pass side compression.

In order for the panhard/trackbar to not contact those big items, I have to move it further towards the front of the car anyways.

I even adjusted the tie rod 1” forward to check clearance if I had offset heims and it still would contact the panhard axle bracket.
Kinda bummed. I tried…

 

[hoser]

It's because the knuckles were originally designed for the 8" differential. Offset TRE's might work but quite a bit of room/offset is needed. Or just try forward holes and see if it works out.

 

[RustyLinkz]

Month 7 update…

Coil over hoops took a while to get dialed. I didn’t use shock towers because they couldn’t fit with the brake master/ accumulator assembly, or at least I didn’t want to make them fit.
I had to sleeve the hoops to extend them because of the long 14” coil over I’m using. I sleeved the hoops with 1.75”x .120 wall DOM and now I have approximately 6” shock shaft showing at ride height which will be bumped to 5.5” up travel and limited to 7.5” down travel.

 

[RustyLinkz]

I’m also in the process of relocating the oil filter.
I won’t be using the coolant housing so I’m thinking of using a small universal 10 row oil cooler (radiator). Any hesitations with this? Will the small passageways in this radiator affect the oil flow/ pressure? Should I cool the oil before the filter or after the filter?

Also, right now the oil pressure sender won’t fit next to the block with the new adaptor so I’m working on fitting it with multiple 45 degree 1/8 NPT fittings.
This looks janky right now, so it’s a temporary fix but does anyone have suggestions to fix this problem?

 

[RustyLinkz]

Also double sheared the steering knuckle. I attempted to weld the mild double shear bracket to the cast knuckle. Preheated to 550-600 Fahrenheit and then used dual shield welding process (MiG + flux core wire)
Should be strong. Hope it doesn’t crack.

 

[choyota]

Man, this is gonna be so nice once you're done!

 

[RustyLinkz]

Man, this is gonna be so nice once you're done!

I have a trip planned over thanksgiving to visit Yosemite and Death Valley in this thing and my pregnant fiancé said she doesn’t wanna take the 90s Tacoma if the cruiser isn’t done yet. So I got a hard deadline now.
Still need to figure out brake lines and power steering lines, ram assist, and little odds and ends.

I actually have an appointment scheduled with stellar built so they can reinforce my frame at the firewall and then build a brace for the cross member/ lower link mounts.
That should be in December. I want a professional fabricator to do to finishing touches.

 

[choyota]

I have a trip planned over thanksgiving to visit Yosemite and Death Valley in this thing and my pregnant fiancé said she doesn’t wanna take the 90s Tacoma if the cruiser isn’t done yet. So I got a hard deadline now.
Still need to figure out brake lines and power steering lines, ram assist, and little odds and ends.

I actually have an appointment scheduled with stellar built so they can reinforce my frame at the firewall and then build a brace for the cross member/ lower link mounts.
That should be in December. I want a professional fabricator to do to finishing touches.

Rad. Nothing like a little pressure to get moving on things! LOL. Can't wait to see it completed, or basically near completion, even without the finishing touches.

 

[RustyLinkz]

Went ahead and ordered a PSC hydraulic assist ram. Ended up with a 1.75” bore x 8.75” length (stroked down to 8.375” for my custom application) and .75” rod dia.
I talked to a few people and it sounds like the general consensus is a smaller bore (1.5”) will have a better response and the larger bore (1.75”) will have a slower response, but will move bigger tires more easily… but I also know that there are many other factors in play when it comes to hydraulics e.g. pump, lines/ fittings, amount of fluid, heat, etc.

I am retaining my factory pump (230k blessed miles, pray for her) but this is a 6k lb car on 40s. So i figured bigger is better right now. Maybe I’ll upgrade the pump down the line or just keep using the OE one. Anyways, I’ll let y’all know how it feels to steer the truck when it’s finished.

One question though, I ordered 4 quarts of the Swepco 715 power steering fluid because I used the same fluid on a previous build and it seemed to work. That build had a PSC pump, reservoir and cylinder. My project now only has the PSC cylinder but retains the factory pump and reservoir.
Any fluid suggestions? Should I stick with Toyota OE ATF? Or you think swepco will work?

 

[cruiserbrett]

Regarding the oil pressure sender, I’d get/find a 12” or so long hydraulic hose with the 1/8npt fittings and move sender to inner fender somewhere.

 

[RustyLinkz]

nothing to see here...

 

[RustyLinkz]

I slapped on my drag link to see if I could use the steering box and shaft to just turn the passenger side and it won’t turn either. Something is stuck. Could it be the CV?
My king pin bearings are set to spec (20ft/lbs pull force) according to hellfire/ ruff stuff specialties.

 

[hoser]

The 105/79 hub uses larger studs and dowels than the 80 series. Are those the correct Aisin Selectable hubs.... FHT-001?

 

[RustyLinkz]

The 105/79 hub uses larger studs and dowels than the 80 series. Are those the correct Aisin Selectable hubs.... FHT-001?

I believe they are and I test fitted them to make sure

 

[RustyLinkz]

And for piece of mind I slapped the hub on backwards to make sure I’m not dumb… it fits

 

[RustyLinkz]

@hoser
Thanks for your quick reply.
I was the boy who called wolf. Way too quickly. I figured out my issue.
When I installed the CVs they were too deep, preventing steering. I took a 5’ steel breaker bar and leveraged it in the steer arm and free’d whatever was binding, pulling the CV out just a tad more thus allowing me to slip the Aisin hub on.

Back to scheduled programming. If the hubs are built today the car will be back on its own weight. It’s been 10 months…

 

[RustyLinkz]

After getting over being a big dummy, the car is now on its on weight.
Still need to plumb the brake system, power steering and a few other tedious things. Almost game time. This felt good.