My 16.5 wheels and tires seem to be working out alright.
Builds SAS 89 Mini--Triple cased Mashed Potato
- Thread starter TeddyBoy
- Start date
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LC_Hamma
The Anti-Leafer
I have 2 sets of recentered H1 wheels & the guage of steel isn't any thinner than any other stock or aftermarket wheel. Ever picked one up? They're almost twice as heavy as a stock wheel. Yeah, the tire options aren't that great if you don't run any other tire than a Swamper. 7" inches of backspacing can be problematic & the 8 lug centers would not work for Ted. Rock rings aren't necessary unless it's a dedicated hardcore rock rig. You can cut down the mag runflat or buy pvc inserts. These would take a little work to fit Ted's truck, but where are you gonna get a DOUBLE beadlocked wheel for $50 each?
H1 wheels (and other non locked 16.5" wheels) wheels can and do work very well in a lot of situations. However I am usually in a "dedicated hardcore rock rig" mind frame when discussing bead locks. For hardcore east coast wheeling they usually aren't the best option. They are cheep, but like you said they often need a lot of work to make them do what you want them to.
So maybe they don't suck, but they probably aren't what Ted is looking for.
So maybe they don't suck, but they probably aren't what Ted is looking for.
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Or, get a set of Stauns...
4wd Accessories Australia
4wd Accessories Australia
Where's the Saturday update Ted?
TeddyBoy
Knighted by the King of MUD himself
- Thread starter
- #107
For the last 2 weeks I've been hopped up on Sudafed and other cold remedies so things are a little fuzzy these days. For instance, over Mexican food last night we had an in depth conversation with Johns wife about how red chickens would make good pets. I dunno? 
If the summary below is a little confusing blame the drugs! 
After last weekend we noticed the rear spring and shackle setup were tweaked to the passenger's side about 1.5 inches. The shackles actually leaned \\ \\ in that direction as you looked at it from the rear.
At first we thought maybe we had mounted the front perches a little out of square thus exaggerating the error at the rear spring bolt. We lowered the truck down until the axle was supported by jack stands then cut loose the tack welds on the front hangers. We then plumb-bobbed and massaged the axle back into square leaving the perches loose and tightened the rear shackles. We raised the truck back up and saw the axle pull to the passenger's side, damn, perches not the problem.
We lowered the truck back down onto the jacks stands and John grabbed a ratchet strap so we could pull the axle back into place. To do this we had to weave the strap around the brake line and the proportioning valve cable which were still connected to the axle. (For those who don't know the PV is mounted near the passenger wheel well under the bed and has +/-3/16th rigid cable that goes from the PV down to the drivers side of the diff, this end is fastened with a bracket and 2 12MM bolts.) I'd looked at this cable before and it appeared to be fairly limp so I wasn't concerned about it. While weaving the strap around the cable John grabbed it and noticed how tight it was. Since the springs and axle were nearly at full droop we summized the cable must be pulling the axle to the passenger's side and causing the problem.
We pulled the 2 12mm bolts and disconnected the cable from the axle. Bam, everything went back to normal. 
Since most of our work up to now had been with the axle on stands and the truck on the lift we had never really looked at everything at full droop and tightened up. Apparently when the truck was off the ground the cable would pull the axle, then we would drop the truck onto the ground and the axle would not go back into place.
We did manage to get the tie rod installed and unbolted the steering box. Using a plasthma cutter we cut away enough room to allow the box to move forward and clear the drag link but this will be next weekend's first job.
If the summary below is a little confusing blame the drugs! After last weekend we noticed the rear spring and shackle setup were tweaked to the passenger's side about 1.5 inches. The shackles actually leaned \\ \\ in that direction as you looked at it from the rear.
At first we thought maybe we had mounted the front perches a little out of square thus exaggerating the error at the rear spring bolt. We lowered the truck down until the axle was supported by jack stands then cut loose the tack welds on the front hangers. We then plumb-bobbed and massaged the axle back into square leaving the perches loose and tightened the rear shackles. We raised the truck back up and saw the axle pull to the passenger's side, damn, perches not the problem.
We lowered the truck back down onto the jacks stands and John grabbed a ratchet strap so we could pull the axle back into place. To do this we had to weave the strap around the brake line and the proportioning valve cable which were still connected to the axle. (For those who don't know the PV is mounted near the passenger wheel well under the bed and has +/-3/16th rigid cable that goes from the PV down to the drivers side of the diff, this end is fastened with a bracket and 2 12MM bolts.) I'd looked at this cable before and it appeared to be fairly limp so I wasn't concerned about it. While weaving the strap around the cable John grabbed it and noticed how tight it was. Since the springs and axle were nearly at full droop we summized the cable must be pulling the axle to the passenger's side and causing the problem.
We pulled the 2 12mm bolts and disconnected the cable from the axle. Bam, everything went back to normal. Since most of our work up to now had been with the axle on stands and the truck on the lift we had never really looked at everything at full droop and tightened up. Apparently when the truck was off the ground the cable would pull the axle, then we would drop the truck onto the ground and the axle would not go back into place.
We did manage to get the tie rod installed and unbolted the steering box. Using a plasthma cutter we cut away enough room to allow the box to move forward and clear the drag link but this will be next weekend's first job.
nice work guys.
ted, get an extended brake line for the rear, then take out the stupid LSPV. there should be a hard line and the flexible line that can connect to each other. Bleed then go on to worrying about something else. If it's really back you can get a manual proportioning valve and put it near the MC.
That old LSPV is bound to leak eventually and they're not really helpful when wheeling.
That old LSPV is bound to leak eventually and they're not really helpful when wheeling.
It finally drives and steers again
TeddyBoy
Knighted by the King of MUD himself
- Thread starter
- #114
Yea it's ALIVE!!!
Had a good day Saturday. We jumped right on the front steering linkage again and got the drag link all mocked up and in place. The hi-steer is now near complete minus 2 nuts and 1 Pitman arm/drag-link connection. I bought the FJ80 TRE for he linkage but have had trouble finding out exactly how the TRE connects solidly through the factory Pitman arm, any suggestions here?
The steering box has now been relocated about an inch up and inch forward to make room for the drag link. The pitman arm clears the frame nicely but the spring hits the drag on full stuff so I am considering a flat arm, that is depending upon the expense and trouble of modifying the factory arm to fit the TRE as mentioned above.
We also got the brake calipers remounted and functional. I pulled a set of instructions off the Marlin Crawler site and purchased all the hardware as specified. As it turns out I'd make one modification to the process, instead of using 2x1/2 grade 8 bolts I'd highly recommend 2x9/16 bolts as the additional size provides much more bite when tapping the brake calipers. (not my pic but same setup, you'll see the 2 hex bolts that go through the knuckle and then the caliper is actually tapped to receive the bolts.)
We also got the extended brake lines installed, no problems there except a tight bolt or two. Josh and Dave did a good job on those.
In short, there are still a lot of loose ends such as shocks, tires, front drive shaft and some bolts to replace but all in all I'm thrilled with the outcome. I may still lower it a little but won't make that decision until after the tires are on it.
Had a good day Saturday. We jumped right on the front steering linkage again and got the drag link all mocked up and in place. The hi-steer is now near complete minus 2 nuts and 1 Pitman arm/drag-link connection. I bought the FJ80 TRE for he linkage but have had trouble finding out exactly how the TRE connects solidly through the factory Pitman arm, any suggestions here?
The steering box has now been relocated about an inch up and inch forward to make room for the drag link. The pitman arm clears the frame nicely but the spring hits the drag on full stuff so I am considering a flat arm, that is depending upon the expense and trouble of modifying the factory arm to fit the TRE as mentioned above.
We also got the brake calipers remounted and functional. I pulled a set of instructions off the Marlin Crawler site and purchased all the hardware as specified. As it turns out I'd make one modification to the process, instead of using 2x1/2 grade 8 bolts I'd highly recommend 2x9/16 bolts as the additional size provides much more bite when tapping the brake calipers. (not my pic but same setup, you'll see the 2 hex bolts that go through the knuckle and then the caliper is actually tapped to receive the bolts.)
We also got the extended brake lines installed, no problems there except a tight bolt or two. Josh and Dave did a good job on those.
In short, there are still a lot of loose ends such as shocks, tires, front drive shaft and some bolts to replace but all in all I'm thrilled with the outcome. I may still lower it a little but won't make that decision until after the tires are on it.
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TeddyBoy
Knighted by the King of MUD himself
- Thread starter
- #115
Here's a few more poser/flex shots. I have to say the 33's now look a little goofy on there but I'll fix that problem soon enough.
It measures 4 ft from floor to back of the front wheel well at full flex.
Nearly 6 ft from the floor to hood near the doors at full flex
And plenty of droop in the rear springs.
It measures 4 ft from floor to back of the front wheel well at full flex.
Nearly 6 ft from the floor to hood near the doors at full flex
And plenty of droop in the rear springs.
TeddyBoy
Knighted by the King of MUD himself
- Thread starter
- #116
Ever since we started this project I've been religiously searching classifieds sections and Craiglist mostly for tires but I ran across a sweet little deal.
The other night Josh and I were joking around that with the added height I was gonna need to go wider. So, last night I'm cruising through my usual websites and an offer jumps out at me and bit me in the a$$, I really wasn't planning on doing this but it's safe to say there was a higher power involved so who am I to argue?
4x 1.5" Spacers for one he!! of a deal so now I'm taller AND 3" wider.
The other night Josh and I were joking around that with the added height I was gonna need to go wider. So, last night I'm cruising through my usual websites and an offer jumps out at me and bit me in the a$$, I really wasn't planning on doing this but it's safe to say there was a higher power involved so who am I to argue?
4x 1.5" Spacers for one he!! of a deal so now I'm taller AND 3" wider.
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Red Lock Tight is your friend w/ spacers and just be aware that they may looses a bit so just keep an eye on them.
Looks like you are ready to play w/ the big tire crowd. Now all you need is big tires...
Looks like you are ready to play w/ the big tire crowd. Now all you need is big tires...
TeddyBoy
Knighted by the King of MUD himself
- Thread starter
- #118
Obviously wider = better stability but what are the pros / cons of running spacers. seems there are differing opinions out there on stability vs. points of failure.
Now that I own them I'm gonna run them but looking for a little feedback from those with long time experience with them
Now that I own them I'm gonna run them but looking for a little feedback from those with long time experience with them
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what other things have you been cruising the classifieds for?
TeddyBoy
Knighted by the King of MUD himself
- Thread starter
- #120
According to my wife I'm looking for girlfriends. If you consider my truck a "girlfriend "I guess I can see that but it does lack certain "attributes" that can be good to have in a relationship.
Seriously, mostly a good set of 36-37" wheel/tire combo but you can hit the other thread for those details. For the most part I have all of the hardware pulled together for at least Phase 1 and 2 of my project.