Builds Salt wagon My first fj40 (build)

[Roastchestnuts]

Wide-open-throttle, or the fuel will concentrate in the exhaust or combustion chamber. It also helps to not have vacuum on the intake side to get the numbers correct.
Maybe, you were already running 'top-tier' gasoline? Top Tier Gasoline Worth the Extra Price, Study Shows - Consumer Reports - https://www.consumerreports.org/cars/fuel-economy-efficiency/top-tier-gasoline-worth-the-extra-price-a7682471234/

so not having vacuum on the intake side? do you just unplug a port or two? and for gas - I dont have the luxury of choice in gas living on an island. its all the same. 87 octane I think. Ohh actually I can get boat gas though haha. but I think thats just ethanol free. but reading that article makes me want that gas!

 

[pb4ugo]

A wide open throttle should take care of the vacuum issue for testing purposes. I wheel in some remote areas, so I want my 40 to be able to run on crap. You do want to test with a hot engine. Dry and wet tests.

 

[Roastchestnuts]

A wide open throttle should take care of the vacuum issue for testing purposes. I wheel in some remote areas, so I want my 40 to be able to run on crap. You do want to test with a hot engine.

Thanks! alright so plan is to recheck after work. maybe it will improve. either way sounds like something is not right. witch is a huge bummer.

 

[pb4ugo]

I edited my last response, you do want to test dry and wet. It will help ID the issue. I had an sbc with a weak cylinder and determined it was the rings. I decided not to rebuild it at the time, it didn't smoke too badly and took a while to foul the plug. When the plug started to noticibly miss, I rotated the plug with the plug next to it. The good cylinder would clean the fouled plug quickly.

 

[Grayscale]

Don't get carried away with the fuel treatments. Less is more. And, I'm also in favor of not being snobbish when it comes to gasoline. The CR article suggests that it is all the same fuel before the additives are added. The Techron - Complete, in a bottle suggests that you use no more than two bottles between oil changes. The Techron - High Mileage suggests that you can use up to twelve bottles between oil changes, and that it stabilizes fuel for 24-months. Fuel stabilization seems like a good thing, as I often don't drive much, and my fuel vapor system is kinda hacked. Last year, my neighborhood had a couple of Chevron stations, so I got Techron without buying it in a bottle. However, despite the awesome data and reviews, these products are expensive, and they go beyond what the manuals are telling us.

In all three LC 2F heads that I've opened up, they all had a few damaged valve stem seals. But, even when the seals looked good, the intake valves often had black congestion to the point where you wondered about the obvious restriction that was created on the intake-side, if engine vacuum was compromised? Serious engine builders polish ports, so imagine getting your intake-charge past what you see below? The valve stem seal is supposed to leak a certain amount of oil, otherwise the valve guide and valve stem wear-out. We are working with old technology, but consider modern direct-injection engines, they are notorious for deposits on the intake valves, because fuel is injected directly into the combustion chamber without cleaning polymerizing oil and carbon from intake valves when the engine is running, good guides and stem-seals or not. So, on a LC, you'll need some kind of cleaning-action from the fuel charge to maintain good vacuum. Perhaps just the fuel itself is all that is necessary prevent or remove the deposit, or maybe you are better off with 'top-tier' gasoline, or an occasional bottle of Techron?

I got off-track, but I started talking about fuel treatments because I was entertaining the possibility of deposits on the piston rings that could compromise their function, and you were considering the possibility that oil was present in the exhaust, or that it was getting into the combustion chamber.

Back to the cooling system, or, if you are going to do a hot-compression test, you'll have to button up everything related to the radiator. I'm curious about what the radiator cap looks like.

 

[Roastchestnuts]

Don't get carried away with the fuel treatments. Less is more. And, I'm also in favor of not being snobbish when it comes to gasoline. The CR article suggests that it is all the same fuel before the additives are added. The Techron - Complete, in a bottle suggests that you use no more than two bottles between oil changes. The Techron - High Mileage suggests that you can use up to twelve bottles between oil changes, and that it stabilizes fuel for 24-months. Fuel stabilization seems like a good thing, as I often don't drive much, and my fuel vapor system is kinda hacked. Last year, my neighborhood had a couple of Chevron stations, so I got Techron without buying it in a bottle. However, despite the awesome data and reviews, these products are expensive, and they go beyond what the manuals are telling us.

In all three LC 2F heads that I've opened up, they all had a few damaged valve stem seals. But, even when the seals looked good, the intake valves often had black congestion to the point where you wondered about the obvious restriction that was created on the intake-side, if engine vacuum was compromised? Serious engine builders polish ports, so imagine getting your intake-charge past what you see below? The valve stem seal is supposed to leak a certain amount of oil, otherwise the valve guide and valve stem wear-out. We are working with old technology, but consider modern direct-injection engines, they are notorious for deposits on the intake valves, because fuel is injected directly into the combustion chamber without cleaning polymerizing oil and carbon from intake valves when the engine is running, good guides and stem-seals or not. So, on a LC, you'll need some kind of cleaning-action from the fuel charge to maintain good vacuum. Perhaps just the fuel itself is all that is necessary prevent or remove the deposit, or maybe you are better off with 'top-tier' gasoline, or an occasional bottle of Techron?

View attachment 3718366View attachment 3718367

I got off-track, but I started talking about fuel treatments because I was entertaining the possibility of deposits on the piston rings that could compromise their function, and you were considering the possibility that oil was present in the exhaust, or that it was getting into the combustion chamber.

Back to the cooling system, or, if you are going to do a hot-compression test, you'll have to button up everything related to the radiator. I'm curious about what the radiator cap looks like.

Ill take pictures of the cap for you. I am really not thinking its the cap but I can always be wrong. That is really interesting with the fuel though. I will give additive the stuff a try. Actually the valves when I pulled the engine apart originally looked very much like the crusty ones you posted just build up not damage though. makes me think this was an issue prior possibly but I am getting ahead of myself. For now I am focusing my efforts on the cooling system then my oil consumption witch I had not realized was so bad until I saw the plugs.

 

[RevISK]

@Roastchestnuts

A quick detour to a question on your top...

Are all three of the bows the same height?

 

[Roastchestnuts]

@Roastchestnuts

A quick detour to a question on your top...

Are all three of the bows the same height?

I think the first one may be slightly higher. the rear two are the same height. I love the top one of my favorite buys for the fj40.

 

[RevISK]

I think the first one may be slightly higher. the rear two are the same height. I love the top one of my favorite buys for the fj40.

I asked @KennyBob the same question...

I ask because the way mine is made, the front one can't be the same height or higher than the rear two being attached to the horizontal section that ties all of the bows together to the Pillars. Looking at other examples online, they seem to be even and that may help get the top more snug.

I like the top too, the company and I have been communicating quite a bit about improvements (footman's, twist locks, grommets) and they are really receptive.

More to come on that in fact...

 

[Roastchestnuts]

alrighty attempt number 2 at compression test: this time I ran the engine a little bit to get it warmed up and filled with water the block and radiator. Had the throttle all the way open as well. Wet test too.

#1 - 145
#2 - 130
#3 - 130
#4 - 130
#5- 130
#6 - 145
Seems much more consistent at least. 2 - 5 read exactly 130psi and both 1 and 6 read exactly 145

Picture of my radiator cap for @Grayscale

I think my plan now is to maybe use the CRC Thermocure to clean the passeges and the radiator drain and then button everything up and burp and see what happens. I guess if it over heats again and shows the same symptoms I can 1 get one of those kits that changes colors to show head gasket failure. and 2 replace the gasket.

Ohh and 100% replace my valve seals.

- a little bit of a ramble but all of this has made me rethink the 2f in an fj40 in this day and age. Just because looking for one thats decent is really getting difficult. I almost wish I had bought a marks adapter that keeps the 4 speed in the same spot and allows a v8. Maybe eventually I will go back to that . A SBC with a sniper kit and with a marks adapter and a h55f would be pretty epic. but then again I would loose the ever so cool 3 on the tree and the all toyotaness of it.

I still have my v8 block that we are tearing apart with a automotive class I am teaching HS students. Its pretty awesome just to get them turning wrenches. None of them have even changed oil before and two students said it was the most fun they had ever had at school.

 

[RevISK]

alrighty attempt number 2 at compression test: this time I ran the engine a little bit to get it warmed up and filled with water the block and radiator. Had the throttle all the way open as well. Wet test too.

#1 - 145
#2 - 130
#3 - 130
#4 - 130
#5- 130
#6 - 145
Seems much more consistent at least. 2 - 5 read exactly 130psi and both 1 and 6 read exactly 145

Picture of my radiator cap for @Grayscale
View attachment 3718734View attachment 3718736

I think my plan now is to maybe use the CRC Thermocure to clean the passeges and the radiator drain and then button everything up and burp and see what happens. I guess if it over heats again and shows the same symptoms I can 1 get one of those kits that changes colors to show head gasket failure. and 2 replace the gasket.

Ohh and 100% replace my valve seals.

- a little bit of a ramble but all of this has made me rethink the 2f in an fj40 in this day and age. Just because looking for one thats decent is really getting difficult. I almost wish I had bought a marks adapter that keeps the 4 speed in the same spot and allows a v8. Maybe eventually I will go back to that . A SBC with a sniper kit and with a marks adapter and a h55f would be pretty epic. but then again I would loose the ever so cool 3 on the tree and the all toyotaness of it.

I still have my v8 block that we are tearing apart with an automotive class I am teaching HS students. Its pretty awesome just to get them turning wrenches. None of them have even changed oil before and two students said it was the most fun they had ever had at school.

That’s a wonderful thing (the very last part).

 

[Green Bean]

alrighty attempt number 2 at compression test: this time I ran the engine a little bit to get it warmed up and filled with water the block and radiator. Had the throttle all the way open as well. Wet test too.

#1 - 145
#2 - 130
#3 - 130
#4 - 130
#5- 130
#6 - 145
Seems much more consistent at least. 2 - 5 read exactly 130psi and both 1 and 6 read exactly 145

Picture of my radiator cap for @Grayscale
View attachment 3718734View attachment 3718736

I think my plan now is to maybe use the CRC Thermocure to clean the passeges and the radiator drain and then button everything up and burp and see what happens. I guess if it over heats again and shows the same symptoms I can 1 get one of those kits that changes colors to show head gasket failure. and 2 replace the gasket.

Ohh and 100% replace my valve seals.

- a little bit of a ramble but all of this has made me rethink the 2f in an fj40 in this day and age. Just because looking for one thats decent is really getting difficult. I almost wish I had bought a marks adapter that keeps the 4 speed in the same spot and allows a v8. Maybe eventually I will go back to that . A SBC with a sniper kit and with a marks adapter and a h55f would be pretty epic. but then again I would loose the ever so cool 3 on the tree and the all toyotaness of it.

I still have my v8 block that we are tearing apart with an automotive class I am teaching HS students. Its pretty awesome just to get them turning wrenches. None of them have even changed oil before and two students said it was the most fun they had ever had at school.

Wait. You teach art and auto mechanics? That’s an interesting combination.

 

[Grayscale]

Dirt? Corrosion? Does what I'm pointing at wipe off? How about under the pin, riveted in the center, is that clean where it mates with the poppet?

Any major scale (whitish material) or sediment under the piece with the arrows? It pries-up with next very little effort, but it only cracks open a bit.

On a Toyota cap, you'll find the hole that allows for overflow to re-enter the radiator, under the big spring. Is the spring pitted, or is that sediment?

 

[RevISK]

Dirt? Corrosion? Does what I'm pointing at wipe off? How about under the pin, riveted in the center, is that clean where it mates with the poppet?

Any major scale (whitish material) or sediment under the piece with the arrows? It pries-up with next very little effort, but it only cracks open a bit.

On a Toyota cap, you'll find the hole that allows for overflow to re-enter the radiator, under the big spring. Is the spring pitted, or is that sediment?
View attachment 3718775

Fixed it for you

 

[rainingagain]

alrighty attempt number 2 at compression test: this time I ran the engine a little bit to get it warmed up and filled with water the block and radiator. Had the throttle all the way open as well. Wet test too.

#1 - 145
#2 - 130
#3 - 130
#4 - 130
#5- 130
#6 - 145
Seems much more consistent at least. 2 - 5 read exactly 130psi and both 1 and 6 read exactly 145

Picture of my radiator cap for @Grayscale
View attachment 3718734View attachment 3718736

I think my plan now is to maybe use the CRC Thermocure to clean the passeges and the radiator drain and then button everything up and burp and see what happens. I guess if it over heats again and shows the same symptoms I can 1 get one of those kits that changes colors to show head gasket failure. and 2 replace the gasket.

Ohh and 100% replace my valve seals.

- a little bit of a ramble but all of this has made me rethink the 2f in an fj40 in this day and age. Just because looking for one thats decent is really getting difficult. I almost wish I had bought a marks adapter that keeps the 4 speed in the same spot and allows a v8. Maybe eventually I will go back to that . A SBC with a sniper kit and with a marks adapter and a h55f would be pretty epic. but then again I would loose the ever so cool 3 on the tree and the all toyotaness of it.

I still have my v8 block that we are tearing apart with a automotive class I am teaching HS students. Its pretty awesome just to get them turning wrenches. None of them have even changed oil before and two students said it was the most fun they had ever had at school.

Much better numbers and that cap looks fine for outflow but like @RevISK pointed out, when it cools and a vacuum forms, the cap is supposed to pull back. It "looks" ok but let us know haha. There's been a ton of posts with all of us dog piling trying to help and I think things have gotten disparate. Can you summarize the actual issue again? No oil in the coolant. No coolant in the oil. No coolant loss other than out the overflow. Cold upper and lower rad hoses when at operating temp. Yeah?

 

[Grayscale]

Here is my old Toyota radiator cap, old. And a new aftermarket cap. You can see the inner seal lost its elasticity, probably from heat and time. It appears like it stretched-out to one side, as there are double grooves on far-left side, and the OD is all deformed, and it is cracked.

 

[middlecalf]

Don’t give up on the 2F yet.

 

[Roastchestnuts]

That’s a wonderful thing (the very last part).

Wait. You teach art and auto mechanics? That’s an interesting combination.

Thanks! yeah I just started the auto class this year. its only on fridays right now. I would love to teach a full time autoshop class. I need to ask administration if its somthing that I can teach next year. Its pretty fun though!

 

[Roastchestnuts]

Dirt? Corrosion? Does what I'm pointing at wipe off? How about under the pin, riveted in the center, is that clean where it mates with the poppet?

Any major scale (whitish material) or sediment under the piece with the arrows? It pries-up with next very little effort, but it only cracks open a bit.

On a Toyota cap, you'll find the hole that allows for overflow to re-enter the radiator, under the big spring. Is the spring pitted, or is that sediment?
View attachment 3718775

I am not seeing anything I feel that would make the cap not work. I think I am just going to buy another. oem ones are 20$ from redline.

 

[Roastchestnuts]

Much better numbers and that cap looks fine for outflow but like @RevISK pointed out, when it cools and a vacuum forms, the cap is supposed to pull back. It "looks" ok but let us know haha. There's been a ton of posts with all of us dog piling trying to help and I think things have gotten disparate. Can you summarize the actual issue again? No oil in the coolant. No coolant in the oil. No coolant loss other than out the overflow. Cold upper and lower rad hoses when at operating temp. Yeah?

I know I am relieved on the compression numbers and the consistency this time. Not great high numbers but what I would expect from a non bored out block from 1978. I am not seeing any glaring issues that point towards a head gasket in terms of the compression numbers. Yeah no oil in coolant, no coolant in oil, only coolant coming out of overflow, No blow by under the valve cover, Not seeing steam out exhaust although smoke at start up that I always attributed to vavles seals. Smoke seemed grey. The thermostat works. The cold uper and lower radiator hoses I am not sure why but yes. I will say the drive I did was not long enough to warm the engine up. less than a mile going 25mph. Witch is why its kinda weird. I am wondering if something is blocked the coolant at the thermostat housing or close to it. seems to flow there though. Or maybe I just never had it fully bled? I ran it all summer in very hot conditions without issues though.

Goal today is to fill the block and radiator with that thermocure stuff that should arrive today. then drain it tomorrow, refill with coolant and burp using the burp funnel.