Roastchestnuts
TLCA #28675 Salt wagon Fj40
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- #1,101
I am not going to lie I tried it on and it fits perfectly. side note I know a retired park ranger here that has his ranger uniform on display like that in his living room.
Builds Salt wagon My first fj40 (build) (6 Viewers)
- Thread starter Roastchestnuts
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Roastchestnuts
TLCA #28675 Salt wagon Fj40
- Thread starter
- #1,102
I really want to actually work in it..... Its so fresh though...That is radical!
Too bad you can’t get it dirty. You going to frame it?
Roastchestnuts
TLCA #28675 Salt wagon Fj40
- Thread starter
- #1,103
Alright a quick friday update: 1. I promise I will add photos today after work. I have been cranking it out lately in the zone and keep forgetting to stop and take some photos. 2. I got the transmission mostly in yesterday. That was way more difficult than I anticipated My body is very sore today haha. I would say much more difficult than the engine. I also some how laid my head in gear oil and I still smell it at work. Not fun at all. lots of frustration noises aka bad words coming from my mouth. I say its mostly installed because I still need to add bolts. I had planned on using the 4speed bolts for now. its currently supported by some blocks and a jack. I could not for the life of me get the bottom bolts to thread into the bellhousing then this morning it dawned on me.... You install those bolts from inside the bellhousing... Figured that out looking at another thread with the below picture. additionally the top bolts I am unsure if I have because of the SBC swap they were not correct to begin with and I am not sure the 4speed bolts are the correct length. Undoubtibly I will find out this eventing when I look around and try and find the other 2 4speed bolts to see if they will work. I did already buy the correct hardware and hopfully it gets here today. if not its a next week problem.
Forgot to mention I am planning on changing my gear oil just by taking off the top plate. Probably going to be the easiest way I could ever do this haha.
Forgot to mention I am planning on changing my gear oil just by taking off the top plate. Probably going to be the easiest way I could ever do this haha.
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Green Bean
GOLD Star
Great job. It is a huge relief to get the transmission mated up. May want to start mixing gear oil with your Head ‘n Shoulders Shampoo to keep that aroma and added sheen
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Roastchestnuts
TLCA #28675 Salt wagon Fj40
- Thread starter
- #1,105
Yess it is a big relief. I have the drive shafts already too. Really its just some of the less heavy lifting stuff now. This weekend I am going to work on making the column shift all work right and welding up the holes in the transtunnel. Cant start it up and run it until I get a pulley for the alternator.Great job. It is a huge relief to get the transmission mated up. May want to start mixing gear oil with your Head ‘n Shoulders Shampoo to keep that aroma and added sheen
Gear oil is the worst smelling of all the oils tends to linger haha.
Roastchestnuts
TLCA #28675 Salt wagon Fj40
- Thread starter
- #1,106
So I finished a few things. I have the pedal installed other than the red boot. Its a little bit custom as mine originally was a cable I believe. I had none of the stuff from the original cable assembly so I went with a mechanical connection. Looks really good. functions way better than what was there before. The other thing I finished is the shift linkage. its really cool to see how it all works. I thought it would be much more complicated but its really not. The shifts all seem to be pretty positive as well and not as much play as I would have expected.
Lastly I rust converted some spots and painted floor in the front especially around where the gas tank sits. I used a wire brush, a rust converting primer as well as ospho prior. then I went back with some bondo branded rubberized bed liner stuff. I might paint over that with some spring green as well. Looks really good!
The front drive shafts looks to be awfully close to where the inspection cover will be. I assume it will be fine because its where it should be now. Look at that shiny new clutch assembly from city racer.
Another little set back is the 3 speed drive shafts have the wrong bolt holes for the flanges. luckily I have all the old ones still that are factory. I ordered new Ujoints and I am just going to swap the drive shaft side flanges. Its the smaller 8mm bolt holes. The ones I bought used have the bigger holes I beleive are 10mm. It should be super reliable after this at least.
Looks messy but at least it should stay relatively rust free for the foreseeable future. I am planning on putting some rubber furniture pads down for the gas tank. Its also all painted black with the rubber bed liner now. so that red rust converting primer is covered. Also looks to be similar in color to the original toyota primer.
side note I need to untangle those wires. all speaker and radio wires. witch works great btw! just mounted under the dash.
additionally I mommocked up one of the corners of the floor and did not realize till after I painted it. Ill fix it this afternoon Looks worse than it is in the pictures. also dont worry I will fix the wire that goes to the gas tank sender. somebody cut and added a piece of extension cord wire. I just rolled with it but now I will fix it right.
Also testing out another digital camera for the Digital dinosaur articles I am writing. This time its the Nikon D3 from 2007. super fun camera to shoot. shot the photo below for it.
Lastly I rust converted some spots and painted floor in the front especially around where the gas tank sits. I used a wire brush, a rust converting primer as well as ospho prior. then I went back with some bondo branded rubberized bed liner stuff. I might paint over that with some spring green as well. Looks really good!
The front drive shafts looks to be awfully close to where the inspection cover will be. I assume it will be fine because its where it should be now. Look at that shiny new clutch assembly from city racer.
Another little set back is the 3 speed drive shafts have the wrong bolt holes for the flanges. luckily I have all the old ones still that are factory. I ordered new Ujoints and I am just going to swap the drive shaft side flanges. Its the smaller 8mm bolt holes. The ones I bought used have the bigger holes I beleive are 10mm. It should be super reliable after this at least.
Looks messy but at least it should stay relatively rust free for the foreseeable future. I am planning on putting some rubber furniture pads down for the gas tank. Its also all painted black with the rubber bed liner now. so that red rust converting primer is covered. Also looks to be similar in color to the original toyota primer.
side note I need to untangle those wires. all speaker and radio wires. witch works great btw! just mounted under the dash.
additionally I mommocked up one of the corners of the floor and did not realize till after I painted it. Ill fix it this afternoon Looks worse than it is in the pictures. also dont worry I will fix the wire that goes to the gas tank sender. somebody cut and added a piece of extension cord wire. I just rolled with it but now I will fix it right.
Also testing out another digital camera for the Digital dinosaur articles I am writing. This time its the Nikon D3 from 2007. super fun camera to shoot. shot the photo below for it.
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middlecalf
SILVER Star
A ‘64 originally would have a linkage pedal setup.
Roastchestnuts
TLCA #28675 Salt wagon Fj40
- Thread starter
- #1,108
Huh.. thats what I thought. well I was told cable before. linkage makes more sense. what was left of the linkage was cobbled together and welded/cut to make the sbc work.. either way. it has a linkage style now thats oem parts and feels more responsive and correct. although its not correct for the year.
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FJ907Warrior
SILVER Star
I used a bell linkage to cable part Toyota made specifically for '73. Saved my bacon.
Can't remember what engine you have in this build, might not be relevant.
middlecalf
SILVER Star
Well here’s what’s in the ‘65 parts book. I doubt they would have gone from cable in ‘64 to linkage in ‘65 and back to cable in late 60’s or 70’s. They didn’t, as my ‘63 is the same ‘65 setup. Remember, your rig would have had an F135 with single barrel carb, not a 2F. My ‘65 with an SBC still has a linkage setup, but from the firewall to the carb is custom, not OEM.
Roastchestnuts
TLCA #28675 Salt wagon Fj40
- Thread starter
- #1,111
Yeah basically the only thing I had left according to that diagram was the gas pedal and the bracket labled H in the picture. those even looked to be modified. none of the rest was there. even the gas pedal mounting bracket was cut in half. So I am glad I made a 2f pedal linkage work. Kinda hate that its not original but it is what it is. It is oem parts made by mr toyota at least. Again works and looks better than what was in it prior thats for sure.
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You’re getting close!
Love the work Back to oem
Love the work Back to oem
Roastchestnuts
TLCA #28675 Salt wagon Fj40
- Thread starter
- #1,113
so close! I cant wait!
Roastchestnuts
TLCA #28675 Salt wagon Fj40
- Thread starter
- #1,114
Here is a photo of how the gas pedal mod went. I need the red boot still. but It works well. this seemed to be the optimal place to put the pedal so everything lined up on the other side of the fire wall. its really close to the steering column boot. but it works. you can see the two nuts for the linkage assymboly bar on the other side one is right below the parking break tube thing.
Just look at that shifter in all its glory! also put my steering wheel back on. It shifts through all the gears easy. and look a clean no holes trans tunnel. I still need to paint the trans tunnel.
The correct alternator pulley. I need to find a better solution to a tensioner but for tuning the carb and running the engine at idle it should be fine for now.
Mostly finished the floor yesterday. I still need to touch up some areas and get the transtunnel. Goals today after work is to get the gas tank in and the radiator installed all the way. Ujoints are on the way as well. I bought them from CCOT. Seemed like the best price for greasable ones. but I started taking the joints out yesterday. I have never done ujoints before. but honestly its not that bad. I almost forgot to mention. I did get the correct upper transmission bolts installed.
again I have been loving shooting my nikon D3 with vintage glass. The lens I shot the photo below was made sometime in 1975 its a 50mm f1.2.
Just look at that shifter in all its glory! also put my steering wheel back on. It shifts through all the gears easy. and look a clean no holes trans tunnel. I still need to paint the trans tunnel.
The correct alternator pulley. I need to find a better solution to a tensioner but for tuning the carb and running the engine at idle it should be fine for now.
Mostly finished the floor yesterday. I still need to touch up some areas and get the transtunnel. Goals today after work is to get the gas tank in and the radiator installed all the way. Ujoints are on the way as well. I bought them from CCOT. Seemed like the best price for greasable ones. but I started taking the joints out yesterday. I have never done ujoints before. but honestly its not that bad. I almost forgot to mention. I did get the correct upper transmission bolts installed.
again I have been loving shooting my nikon D3 with vintage glass. The lens I shot the photo below was made sometime in 1975 its a 50mm f1.2.
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Green Bean
GOLD Star
Excellent work. You are really making great progress.
Roastchestnuts
TLCA #28675 Salt wagon Fj40
- Thread starter
- #1,116
Thanks. I think I finally say I can see the light at the end of the tunnel.
It’s amazing how fast things can go when you get rolling.
I’m taking mine for exhaust next Thursday
Which means I have to get my manifold gasket, valve cover gasket, and rear brake line done before then.
I’m taking mine for exhaust next Thursday
Which means I have to get my manifold gasket, valve cover gasket, and rear brake line done before then.
Roastchestnuts
TLCA #28675 Salt wagon Fj40
- Thread starter
- #1,118
I am stoked for you too man! it looks good. I have found if I dont have goals for a weekend that I dont get stuff done as quickly. I know I am trying to have mine in a place that I can drive it after my spring break from teaching. I am leaving at the end of this week to take the senors to DC and then immediately flying to Portland Maine at the end of the following week. Was trying to get it all done before but I had some setbacks like the transmission bearing cover and the drive shafe side flanges had the wrong size bolt holes so I decided to replace ujoints and swap flanges.It’s amazing how fast things can go when you get rolling.
I’m taking mine for exhaust next Thursday
Which means I have to get my manifold gasket, valve cover gasket, and rear brake line done before then.
You’ve made fast progress for sure
Mine is so dependent on our schedule. I try not to take time away from the kids or wife to work on it. Last weekend just worked out so we could all hang out outside and I worked while they did kid things
Roastchestnuts
TLCA #28675 Salt wagon Fj40
- Thread starter
- #1,120
An update: I had an issue with the carburator where the float was not set correctly. additionally when I pulled the carb air horn off I found that the accelerator pump had pretty much dissolved. It was from a keyster kit. Good thing I kept the original that came with my used carb that I am 99% sure newly rebuilt and in perfect shape anyway. I am pretty sure the rubber deteriorated because I used starting fluid to get the engine going to bring fuel up to the bowl (before I knew my float was not set correctly.) Lesson learned.
Cleaned everything out and seems to be Ok. additionally the old one that was in perfect shape was leather instead of rubber
Other good news with some bad sprinkled in - I got my radiator installed and the engine filled up with coolant. Ran the engine for about a minute or two without issue other than high idle. I will eventually have to unhook the radiator. because what I thought I had was a 2f shroud was actually a F shroud I determined thats where my fan fitment issues were coming from. I am trying to decide if I want to modify the 1f shroud or find a 2f fj40 one.
Good news: the ujoints came in from CCOT and seem to be of good quality and greaseable. I am going to start putting those together maybe this afternoon if I have time.
Not much left on the checklist.
Ujoints
fan shroud
bleeding breaks and clutch
Tuning carb.
exhaust (going to make do with what I have till I can get somebody with more muffler skills to weld in something nicer.)
I almost forgot that I will soon add the Fusable link from @Cruiser Cult
Cleaned everything out and seems to be Ok. additionally the old one that was in perfect shape was leather instead of rubber
Other good news with some bad sprinkled in - I got my radiator installed and the engine filled up with coolant. Ran the engine for about a minute or two without issue other than high idle. I will eventually have to unhook the radiator. because what I thought I had was a 2f shroud was actually a F shroud I determined thats where my fan fitment issues were coming from. I am trying to decide if I want to modify the 1f shroud or find a 2f fj40 one.
Good news: the ujoints came in from CCOT and seem to be of good quality and greaseable. I am going to start putting those together maybe this afternoon if I have time.
Not much left on the checklist.
Ujoints
fan shroud
bleeding breaks and clutch
Tuning carb.
exhaust (going to make do with what I have till I can get somebody with more muffler skills to weld in something nicer.)
I almost forgot that I will soon add the Fusable link from @Cruiser Cult
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