OlYellr
SILVER Star
I used the 1662LS on mine. My Dizzy # is 19100-61180
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I wish I could answer your question, but I solved a lot of problems by installing a Pertronix and Flame Thrower coil.Also If I wanted to go pertronix witch Pertronix kit will work with the city racer distributer 19100-61180? It says city racers site that the pertronix 1662LS is there another model of patroix that will work?
I used the 1662LS on mine. My Dizzy # is 19100-61180
I wish I could answer your question, but I solved a lot of problems by installing a Pertronix and Flame Thrower coil.
I called them and they talked me through what I needed.
I found a Pertronix 1662ls on eBay that I just purchased. They are hard to find anywhere else in stock. this is somthing that will take a week to get here so Might be next weekend or later before I get it installed. it Seems like the wiring is pretty easy and should be better than points. The good news is I already purchased the rotor according to city racer that clears the petronix. I had planned on switching to this but I wanted to get the engine installed first.Another vote for Pertronix in a 19100-61180.
I did mount the coil to the block. I actually confirmed it was working by trying it out on the small block thats in the fj40 right now. I am not sure whats up with it right now at this point. I am going to take a break on it right now and think about it.if you all have any input let me knowDid you decide to mount the coil to the block? Some models use the body or engine as a ground for the coil assembly/mounting bracket.
same for me. the worst part about this build (knock on wood) I think will be the muffler. the closest muffler shop is 5 hours away! Going to trailer it I think haha.
hahah I am thinking about just welding up something. Honestly its a carbureted engine. nothing too complicated to worry about.I'm still rocking my "sitting in a junkyard for 10 years and in a friend's field for another 10" exhaust system in mine, cobbled together with universal flex pipe, tin cans, muffler bandage and booger welds.
Seems to get the job done.
What is the model number?Random But I was looking at the old dizzy that was in the 2f when I got it. is this an electronic petronix style points thats in it? I was so focused on the rust inside I didnt really notice this. Would this come from factory this way? or is that aftermarket? Its a toyota oem Dizzy
Yeehaw!Another Update. I got the engine to fire off and run for a couple of seconds. I realized I had a couple of plugs wires crossed. Probably from taking the cap on and off a bunch of times to check the points. I am going to double check that I am not 180 degrees out But I did check that the number 1 was at TOC with a screw driver and looking at the little bb on the flywheel. when I put the dizzy in. I am also trying to run it off the fuel pump and the fuel pump is taking a while to fill the bowl up. I am thinking because the non gear reductions starter is slower taking more time... My battery also is pretty much trash and I should go buy another. I keep having to start charging it and taking a break after only a few cranks. Fun stuff!!
I need to video it next time.
Ill check after work today. That looks like the same dizzy. Thats interesting.What is the model number?
Here is my OEM dizzy - it is and electronic dizzy from for 1979-1980 (19100-61101). It needs some TLC to get it back to life. Was going to reach out to Fourrunner but I think he retired out of that.
View attachment 3557524
If your still having problems, I'd recommend (if you haven't already) getting an old school timing light and remote starter switch. This way you can turn the engine over with the remote starter switch, and watch the timing with the timing light (I'll normally tape the trigger down on the timing light, and place it to flash on the clutch timing port) then I have a free hand to make adjustments, or pump the throttle, if they are needed while turning over the engine.Another Update. I got the engine to fire off and run for a couple of seconds. I realized I had a couple of plugs wires crossed. Probably from taking the cap on and off a bunch of times to check the points. I am going to double check that I am not 180 degrees out But I did check that the number 1 was at TOC with a screw driver and looking at the little bb on the flywheel. when I put the dizzy in. I am also trying to run it off the fuel pump and the fuel pump is taking a while to fill the bowl up. I am thinking because the non gear reductions starter is slower taking more time... My battery also is pretty much trash and I should go buy another. I keep having to start charging it and taking a break after only a few cranks. Fun stuff!!
I need to video it next time.
I used this oem toyota one 19100-61180. I just was curious about the one my block came with. it was COMPLETE Junk. I have seen stuff come out of the ocean that looked in less rusty shape. OEM 2F 3F Distributor for Land Cruiser FJ40 FJ60 FJ62 70 Series FJ80 - https://www.cityracerllc.com/products/oem-2f-3f-distributor-for-land-cruiser-fj40-70-series-fzj80Also, be careful what dizzy you use, some are shorter and won't reach the oil pump. Make sure it seats!
I actually got it to run for about 2-3 seconds yesterday. a huge accomplishment in my book honestly. Always a good feeling when alot of hard work pays off. My biggest issue now is I need to buy a new battery. the one I have just dies after a two or three cranking attempts. and dial in my timing with a timing light. The fuel pump is taking a long time to fill up the float bowl as well. But I wrote that before. and I will be fiddling with the carb a bunch I am sure. I am not planning on messing with the carb adjustment as much until I actually drop the engine in the 40.If your still having problems, I'd recommend (if you haven't already) getting an old school timing light and remote starter switch. This way you can turn the engine over with the remote starter switch, and watch the timing with the timing light (I'll normally tape the trigger down on the timing light, and place it to flash on the clutch timing port) then I have a free hand to make adjustments, or pump the throttle, if they are needed while turning over the engine.
I found my 2F was a tad touchy when I first started tuning it in, once I got it to fire regularly I used a old snap-on dwell meter and vacuum gauge to fine tune it cycling between the carb adjustment, and timing until I have it idling on its own at about 600-700 rpms.
A large vacuum leak will also make it almost impossible to start... Found that out the hard way. Flooding it will do that same.