Rust Issues - 1999 LC (1 Viewer)

[Joseph Jones]

Would love some input. Recently purchased a new to me 1999 LC that needs some TLC. the worst rust is in the rear bumper area. I think I just need to pull the bumper off, grind, treat and stop the rust and the best fix may just be a new steel bumper. Thoughts?

The spot on the rear hatch and front driver panel I think can be sanded and repaired. It hasn't gotten that bad yet. Most of what is underneath seems to be surface rust that again can be hit with a wire brush and treated. Thoughts? How bad is the rust compared to ones that you have seen? Any useful threads about treating rust?

 

[Joseph Jones]

More pics

 

[CBeckFJ]

doesnt look too bad. Better than mine at least haha.

 

[nissanh]

Not bad for what I 've seen here.

I don't have experience with rust. For the frame, I spray used motor oil + gear oil mixture. It builds a small film protecting the metal from water. Use a penetrating oil first, it can seep deep into cracks and prevent further corrosion. Do this once a year and frame stays like new.

Probably need sanding and primer/new paint for rusted body work.

 

[97 AZ LC]

Is that a Denver car? Just curious.

 

[Joseph Jones]

Yes, located here in Denver.

 

[Joseph Jones]

Not originally from Denver though. Carfax says the car is originally from Illinois.

 

[97 AZ LC]

It looked too rough to be just Denver. How many years in Ill?

 

[Joseph Jones]

Illinois and Wisconsin from late 1998 through 2013. In Colorado from 2013 through today.

 

[Somebodyelse5]

Illinois and Wisconsin from late 1998 through 2013. In Colorado from 2013 through today.

Posts like this make me glad I live in AZ... just picked up a 97 and there is literally not a spec of corrosion on the thing...

To do it right, you may need to go to a body shop. I would expect cutting out the rusted areas and welding in a new piece of sheet metal... if you are competent welding, it might be worth a try doing it yourself? The challenge I can see would be matching the contours perfectly.

Another option would be to find a used fender and swap it in?

 

[Kabanstva]

Illinois and Wisconsin from late 1998 through 2013. In Colorado from 2013 through today.

I believe it. Looks like every other rotted out IL and WI truck I’ve seen. CO trucks are usually very clean in the rust departme too.

 

[FxFormat]

Posts like this make me glad I live in AZ... just picked up a 97 and there is literally not a spec of corrosion on the thing...

To do it right, you may need to go to a body shop. I would expect cutting out the rusted areas and welding in a new piece of sheet metal... if you are competent welding, it might be worth a try doing it yourself? The challenge I can see would be matching the contours perfectly.

Another option would be to find a used fender and swap it in?

Yep, we hate you west coasters, our trucks here all have cancer.

 

[Somebodyelse5]

Yep, we hate you west coasters, our trucks here all have cancer.

Don't forget that tomorrow the high in phx is 117 so, there are definitely pro's and con's... you guys definitely have the upper hand on summer weather!

 

[gatormark91]

There is going to be no monetary return on fixing that rust. Just a lot of effort and money spent. Drive it and enjoy it. Just watch for rust in the structural areas of the frame, and make sure they are solid, and treat them to make sure they stay solid. Once metal starts to get swelled up from rust (like on the trans cross-member), and the rust has eaten out that much of the body, it's pretty much on borrowed time. You'll still get years of use out of it if the structural bits are good. What you are seeing is just the visible rust, as well - there will be more... IMHO, fixing the rust on that one is going to be a constant and losing battle.

 

[97 AZ LC]

There is going to be no monetary return on fixing that rust. Just a lot of effort and money spent. Drive it and enjoy it. Just watch for rust in the structural areas of the frame, and make sure they are solid, and treat them to make sure they stay solid. Once metal starts to get swelled up from rust (like on the trans cross-member), and the rust has eaten out that much of the body, it's pretty much on borrowed time. You'll still get years of use out of it if the structural bits are good. What you are seeing is just the visible rust, as well - there will be more... IMHO, fixing the rust on that one is going to be a constant and losing battle.

Agree. It's hard to make an economic case for extensive rust repair on something like that unless and until series 100s become valuable, like series 40 for example. So someone has sit on it and coddle it for 15-20 years or so while we wait to see if series 100s are going to become valuable. If so then you can take it apart and do it right. Until then just do light cosmetic work and try to keep it from getting much worse. The premium for a rust free example today seems to me a great bargain. If and when series 100s become valuable the original rust free examples are likely to be the most desirable.