Running Engine with Blown Head Gasket... (1 Viewer)

[CJF]

I bought an LX cheap that needs a new motor due to a small leak in the oil cooler.

Back in 2000 my '91 developed an oil cooler leak. I wasn't nearly as mechanically inclined back then, and I drove it at least a few thousand miles (probably closer to 10K) with obvious milkshake under the oil cap and water draining out with the oil during oil changes. Finally used some stop leak on it, which plugged the heater core but stopped the leak. That was over 20 years ago now, and the rig has had no coolant loss issues since, and no resulting mechanical issues either. Rig was at ~100K miles when all that was going on, now it's over 300K.

Not recommending that course of action, but sort of like the OP, I didn't really have any good options back then, and I ended up getting away with it.

 

[jaymar]

If you are running it, the oil will mix with the water and you'll have a chocolate milkshake. It will be obvious. Shutting it down until you know what the problem is is your best bet, but do not run it with water in the oil. That means you may want to check it every time you run it.

I check the radiator before every trip, and rarely go more than 10mi round-trip. Or did you mean the OIL on the dipstick will look like a chocolate shake?

 

[-Spike-]

I check the radiator before every trip, and rarely go more than 10mi round-trip. Or did you mean the OIL on the dipstick will look like a chocolate shake?

Oil on the dipstick. Oil could go into the cooling system and/or coolant may end up in the oil, or neither, with a blown head gasket. Oil in the coolant isn't as bad as coolant (water) in the oil. Water-contaminated oil doesn't do what oil is supposed to do.

 

[jaymar]

It's your money.

Pay now or pay more later.

Mmmyeah, about that. I'm not a complete idiot. (Really!) Obviously not the wisest mechanical course here, but available funds suddenly committed to family medical issue, so it is what it is until that's done or I'm riding public transit...

 

[BILT4ME]

Mmmyeah, about that. I'm not a complete idiot. (Really!) Obviously not the wisest mechanical course here, but available funds suddenly committed to family medical issue, so it is what it is until that's done or I'm riding public transit...

I get it and I'm not trying to be an ass.

It's a serious statement and I've done things that I had known were going to cost more by waiting due to cash flow.

 

[mudgudgeon]

I get it and I'm not trying to be an ass.

It's a serious statement and I've done things that I had known were going to cost more by waiting due to cash flow.

Same.
Sometimes a gamble pays off, sometimes it doesn't.

 

[jaymar]

I get it and I'm not trying to be an ass.

It's a serious statement and I've done things that I had known were going to cost more by waiting due to cash flow.

Oh, yeah, I didn't doubt your intent; just tossing that out there in my own advanced self-defense, for whatever may come from whoever (whomever?) else down the road...

 

[robnicko]

If you're getting gas in the cooling system then i think your running days are numbered. If the cooling system pressureises above a certain point it will likely blow your radiator. If the HG leak is between cylinders then you might be ok but way down on power. Either way i struggle to see a reason to drive it any further than it takes to get it in the shop.

in addition to the radiator, you run the risk of blowing the heater core which is not a cheap or easy fix.

if the HG is blown then the answer is simple, do not drive until fixed or it will do more damage / cost more

 

[jaymar]

in addition to the radiator, you run the risk of blowing the heater core which is not a cheap or easy fix.

if the HG is blown then the answer is simple, do not drive until fixed or it will do more damage / cost more

Why would it blow the heater core? If because of increased pressure--won't a leaking radiator be a failsafe? I mean that system is only supposed to run at, what, 14 lbs?

 

[robnicko]

Why would it blow the heater core? If because of increased pressure--won't a leaking radiator be a failsafe? I mean that system is only supposed to run at, what, 14 lbs?

it may blow the heater core, engine comp PSI is alot more than 14 psi and you feel the radiator hoses on a car with a leaking HG they are rock hard so its a gamble and one of the main reasons shops that do HG work will only warranty if a new radiator or tested radiator used.
the stress on seals, tanks, hoses etc when a HG is leaking is immense when compression gases go into the cooling system

 

[CJF]

Haven't we had a couple folks whose engines seized due to a drastic HG failure?

 

[SaturnAscends]

@jaymar I think it'd probably be worth it to get a quote from a LC mechanic near you for a rebuilt top end, that is if you don't have time to DIY.

Even if you have to borrow money somehow, you'd still end up coming out ahead vs. running it and risking a seized engine as mentioned above.

Otherwise your options are to park it and work on it yourself and figure out other transport, or cut your losses and get something else, probably the worst option which I doubt you'd take.

Anyway, I'm sorry to hear about your family emergency, and I hope everyone's ok.

 

[White Stripe]

I would buy a head gasket and some valve seals, a sanding block, and some sandpaper. Pull the head, scrape off the gasket, block sand it clean, install new valve seals, and put it back together. Will probably last another 100k or more like that. May want to buy some lapping compound, and a extra intake and exhaust valve off of rock auto in case you need it. A rebuilt or new head would be nice, but you do what you gotta do sometimes. Make sure the head gasket and valve seals are good quality. Should have it fixed diy like that for 300ish$

 

[jaymar]

Dipstick Pix. Truck has been sitting for a day or two. Removed dipstick, took first picture. Wiped dipstick, inserted and removed, then took second pic (with lighter background). Can't say I noticed that oil splash on the stick in pic one before, but then I haven't pulled the stick the last few times I added oil. Would the brown milkshake show up here, or only when the engine is hot?

 

[Funner]

Pull the thermostat, fill crank and radiator with motor oil, no hazardous mixing? Fix correctly as soon as possible. Also, would consider buying the cheapest car on CL and driving that until I could fix correctly.

 

[robnicko]

Dipstick Pix. Truck has been sitting for a day or two. Removed dipstick, took first picture. Wiped dipstick, inserted and removed, then took second pic (with lighter background). Can't say I noticed that oil splash on the stick in pic one before, but then I haven't pulled the stick the last few times I added oil. Would the brown milkshake show up here, or only when the engine is hot?

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the top pic looks like condensation but either way if it were my car I would not be driving it & would fix before it gets worse

the milkshake will show up more so when engine is cold on dipstick and also under filler cap, looks like a whiteish goo

 

[BILT4ME]

the top pic looks like condensation but either way if it were my car I would not be driving it & would fix before it gets worse

the milkshake will show up more so when engine is cold on dipstick and also under filler cap, looks like a whiteish goo

Negative on the whitish goo under the oil cap. That's a bull**** indicator.

 

[SaturnAscends]

Keep in mind you won't always see the chocolate milkshake, even when the gasket is totally blown. The only symptoms on the vid below were a rough idle, and a "steamcleaned" piston with visible coolant seepage into the cylinder with a stethoscope.

 

[Broski]

Sorry for your troubles!!

It sounds like you had your mind made up before you posted.

If you have been running water and you park it you can end up with rust in the cylinders.

$ 3500.00 is going to be on the low side in today’s market and on the west coast.

Could probably sell it for what you paid for it even with the blow HG in today’s market.
And buy a more practical DD.
Especially if you are a one car household.

 

[gummycarbs]

I just want to point out that the sodium silicate head gasket "leak fix" products work by beginning to harden at 212-221 °F (from Wikipedia). They won't clog radiators or heater cores unless there's other stuff in them.

My understanding is that you need to flush your cooling system with plain water, then add the sealant, run it until it seals, then flush the cooling system again and put coolant back in. It's also probably a good idea to change the oil in case of contamination.