RTH: won't start post starter rebuild... (1 Viewer)

[staggrlee]

I was trying to envision the circuit in my head and it wasn't making sense, but now I got it... Maybe I'll hook it to a nipple if I can't figure it out and I get pissed off

No I'm not sure on the advice myself right now. Where is the starter ground itself? Can you access it where it grounds to the engine block/chassis? I've never been in there myself.

 

[petrotk40]

Why would hooking up jumper cables to the fusible link be any different than just clamping it to the cable clamps? How I had them hooked up, it took bad battery connection out of the equation, or so I thought?

 

[OregonLC]

No I'm not sure on the advice myself right now. Where is the starter ground itself? Can you access it where it grounds to the engine block/chassis? I've never been in there myself.

Correct. The starter ground path is through the block to chassis ground.

Why would hooking up jumper cables to the fusible link be any different than just clamping it to the cable clamps? How I had them hooked up, it took bad battery connection out of the equation, or so I thought?

Could the fusible link be getting soft? I think the easiest would be to pull the manifold and take a jumper cable directly from the positive pole to the starter side of the solenoid. If it moves you've got a wiring problem. If not you've got a starter/solenoid problem. Either way you now have a path to chase, as much of a PITA it will be to remove the mani again.

 

[jgray]

petrotk40 - I feel for you man... Getting to that starter is a lot of work... I'd be pissed too...

 

[petrotk40]

Either way you now have a path to chase, as much of a PITA it will be to remove the mani again.

ya, I agree. Looks like that's my plan of action. I'll update when I get everything apart again and tested

 

[petrotk40]

welp... I managed to strip the bolt in the front driver side of the manifold. so now I'm inside drinking a nice glass of scotch. I'll try again later. I'm going to try the "shove a screwdriver under it and push up while turning the ratchet" approach... dammit to hell. I'm an effing engineer for goodness sake, why do I suck at this stuff.

 

[2000UZJ]

welp... I managed to strip the bolt in the front driver side of the manifold. so now I'm inside drinking a nice glass of scotch. I'll try again later. I'm going to try the "shove a screwdriver under it and push up while turning the ratchet" approach... dammit to hell. I'm an effing engineer for goodness sake, why do I suck at this stuff.

apparently the Toyota engineers sucked as well. Look at where they put the starter.

 

[staggrlee]

apparently the Toyota engineers sucked as well. Look at where they put the starter.

I forget how I found the thread here but somebody installed a fail-safe jumper lead to the starter while they were in there. I'll definitely do the same once I find myself needing to replace the contacts/starter.

If the solenoid or something in the wiring path fails you can still start it by jumping the starter while somebody handles the key side of the start equation. A wiring stub to a terminal post up on the firewall seems to me to be cheap insurance.

 

[OregonLC]

I forget how I found the thread here but somebody installed a fail-safe jumper lead to the starter while they were in there. I'll definitely do the same once I find myself needing to replace the contacts/starter.

If the solenoid or something in the wiring path fails you can still start it by jumping the starter while somebody handles the key side of the start equation. A wiring stub to a terminal post up on the firewall seems to me to be cheap insurance.

ed zachary. run a hot lead out from the manifold so that you can jumper it to the batter if the solenoid goes tango uniform. just make sure to terminate the lead properly or you'll be welding under the hood.

also, I guess to confirm the theory, bypassing the solenoid will still throw the gear out, right? It's not just going to spin retracted is it? If so the bypass is kinda pointless...

 

[petrotk40]

also, I guess to confirm the theory, bypassing the solenoid will still throw the gear out, right? It's not just going to spin retracted is it? If so the bypass is kinda pointless...

That is my thinking on this as well, I'm not sure how it would work. If the solenoid is toast, you are SOL right?


PSA: THE TORQUE FOR INTAKE MANIFOLD BOLTS/NUTS IS ONLY 13LB-FT
Thanks spressomon

 

[spressomon]

That is my thinking on this as well, I'm not sure how it would work. If the solenoid is toast, you are SOL right?

Also: Be sure to gently "pull" down the manifold apart of the bolt/nut tightening process. I typically start with the middle area bolts/nuts and work in an "X" pattern moving outward torquing a little more with each total pass until the final torque value is achieved for the manifold. What you DON'T want to do is slap the manifold in place and then torque the first bolt/nut to spec without gradually pulling the manifold into place. Just how I do it...and my 2 cents.

 

[petrotk40]

It lives!! Something must have been shorted when I bolted the starter in. I ended up just getting a starter from oreilly for $70. In hindsight, this is probably the best way to go.