transfer case failed, now won't start (1 Viewer)

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Nov 13, 2023
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Hawaii
Hi everyone!

I have a 99' land cruiser, and live at the bottom of one of the steepest roads in america. The other day, I was driving up the hill when the transfer case failed (sudden grinding sound, can't put in gear in either high or low). I managed to back it down the hill to a safe flat place, where it sat for a few days. When I went back a few days later, the engine won't start. The car turns on and cranks, but can't get it running. Is this related to the transfer case failure or something completely different? Any ideas what's going on?

Thank you so much!

Emily
 
More likely than transfer case issue:


Likely cause of “cranks, but won’t start”:

 
How much fuel was in the tank when you backed it down from steep hill? If it was low on fuel then maybe the fuel pump need to be primed or something. Detach the fuel filter and crank the car briefly and check if there is any fuel coming in the fuel line.
Transfer case has no relation with no start issue.
 
Collective wisdom is transfer case failures are exceedingly rare on these. Are you sure it's the transfer case? Could drain it and looks for chunks. As the other poster pointed out, more likely drive flange/c clip.
 
More likely than transfer case issue:


Likely cause of “cranks, but won’t start”:


^^^^^

Agree with the above. While it is 'possible' the Tcase could have failed it is unlikely. It's all gear driven and a very robust design.

IF one of your CV axles (or flanges) have stripped out, it will make a terrible sound and all the power will bias to the front and to that side. A good way to check for that (and also regain forward mobility) is to lock your center diff which forces the Tcase to provide power evenly to the front and rear differentials.

IF you physically can not get the Tcase shifter to go into either high or low range, that suggests two things:

1. It popped out of gear somehow (and is now in neutral, which will leave you without power to either differential). Is not broken but needs to be put back into gear.
2. You have rusty/corroded linkage that isn't letting you shift back into gear (Hi or Low) or the vehicle needs to moved slightly for the gears to align enough to engage.

NON START: (Cranks but won't fire).

Most often a fuel related issue but can be the immobilizer as well.
 
Thank you so much for this information!! I kinda assumed it was the transfer case because that's what the neighbor who was with me at the time said it was, but will check these things out. Super grateful!!
 
Stating what is likely the obvious, but if the transfer case is in neutral, you need to put the transmission in neutral to shift it into high or low. It will grind in any other position.
 
Or, it could be worn CV splines on front flange
 
Thank you so much for this information!! I kinda assumed it was the transfer case because that's what the neighbor who was with me at the time said it was, but will check these things out. Super grateful!!

^^^^^

Emily, It's possible but not likely.

First order of business is to get the vehicle started. Since you have a 'Cranks' (engine turned by starter) but not 'Start' (engine fires and runs) situation you'll need to determine if the issue is fuel related (engine not getting fuel) or spark related.

IF you have plenty of fuel in the tank....then you'll need to see if the fuel is making it past the fuel filter and to the fuel injectors. We can walk you through it (or another person who is capable) if you choose to fix it yourself.

When/if it is established the fuel circuit is not the issue then we need to see why the engine is not getting spark (I.E. immobilizer or other issue). Again we can make suggestions there.

Once the vehicle is started....you will want to be sure the Tcase is in gear (high or low range, but not neutral). Then shift the transmission into gear. IF you have no forward movement and a grinding sound...then lock the center diff and see if you have forward movement then.

IF so...then most likely the splines on the CV axle are stripped or the drive flange (most likely of the two) but could be both. Another thing to check is to remove the dust cap on the flange and see if the Circlip has popped off the axle, which will allow the axle to move inward towards the differential and not provide contact with the splines.

Stripped flange looks and sounds like this:

 

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