Timing belt job just done. Blown engine or savable? This is interesting guys! (1 Viewer)

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2001LC

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Nov 4, 2007
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Location
Colorado
Happy 2020 all.

Well, I spent last day of 2019, inspecting a 2005 LC w/~200K, that was towed to me. That had a Timing Belt installed a few days before coming to me

Let me know your thoughts:
Blown engine from interference or is there hope?​
  • Also what do you think happened?
Skip story and go to items 1-15 if you'd just like to just get to the data.

Here's the story. I received an email from Cairo, He was responding to a CL ad I posted for 2UZ engines and parts. Subsequently speaking with Cairo I learned, he had purchased a clean 2005 LC w/~200K miles about 30 days ago, that was running great. He's a shade-tree mechanic that didn't feel comfortable doing a timing belt job himself. So he paid some Mechanic to do the job for him, he supplied parts and materials.

Cairo, picked up his 05LC after the T-belt job done. As he drove off, he noticed a knock. After about a mile he turn back to the shop that did the job. Shop implied it had a knock when brought to them. Then admitted they did not really pay attention to how it ran pre T-belt job, just pulled into shop. Cairo drove off and it started running very rough, worst in fact! He turned back again to shop. Mechanic (at some point) said he'll need a new engine. Cairo must have been so upset at this point. 30 days of ownership and needs new engine, that ran great. Which, at some point, Mechanic (if I understand correct) is going to take care of for him. So that's why I was called, he was just looking for and engine. I've two 2UZ-fe VVTi enines in CL. I'm thinking and said, after hear why he want and for what year; Engine is not likely blown. That we in ih8mud have seen so many belt breaks in mud in non VVT under-load, that did not hurt the engine (interfere). New belt and go. But that's is a belt letting go and cams will stop in most neutral position as valve springs push lobes. Right?.

Anyway we talked and he seem like a nice guy. So he asked and agreed to help him out. He said it ran, but I suggested he have it towed. So it was dropped off at my house, day after a big and very cold snow storm. So next day, last day of 2019, he came by to help me look at it.

Well, I've a restore project I'm working on and a very unusual brake issue I'm diagnose for local mud member here now, I need to get to. With my other two 100, I've 5 rigs here now, cruiser heaven...LOL.

Anyway Cairo got here 10AM. I cleared my shop and driveway to get his rig in. It started but, very rough with puff of white smoke and died. We could not get running again. So without a winch available. I rigged up a block & tackle (100 year old horse hair rope, no kidding) some chains, cables and anything I could. To reach 50' down my driveway to the street from back of my garage. I had placed one 1/2" anchor in my concert garage floor for just such and occasion, a week earlier. Anchor never tested and 100 year old block & tackle. "Could it hold" IDK... LOL.

We pulled the Land Cruiser up my driveway (up hill) and into the shop. Man what a workout....LOL We both had to get on the rope and chock the wheels every few feet just in case the setup broke.


The data:
  1. Timing belt job done few days earlier by someone on other side of Denver.
  2. Knock afterwards, then very rough running on two short separate drives.
  3. Started one more time a few days later, very rough with puff of with smoke.
  4. Will not start again, almost firing with foot to floor, but just not firing up.
  5. Puller codes: Confirmed P0300, P0301, P0307 (300 miss-fire codes). Pending P0300-1-2-3-5 & 8, P0171 & P0175 Lean code, B2799 Immobilizer, C1223 ABS, C1256 Accumulator. So all but cyl #4 report confirmed or pending miss-fire, IDK why #4 didn't.
  6. Pulled all 8 spark plugs. All very wet and some washed carbon washed and all glazed. Interesting side note: All hard to remove and have what may be a lot of anti-seize on them. Only one felt just a little loose at start, all difficult to turn all the way out. Toyota history shows Stevenson Toyota West installed them 70K miles ago. Vacuum lines, air filter oil, coils all "look" good.
  7. Gas smell was overwhelm in the shop, after plugs pulled.
  8. Compression test (with fuel pump power disconnected, T-body open, engine cold) was: 170 PSI BK 1, 10 PSI BK 2. Wow, a whole bank flat at only 10 PSI! (Note I did go back and check compression on Cylinder #1 got 150PSI 2 hour later and cylinder #2 still ~10PSI. Likely fuel evaporating form cylinder reduce extra volume and/or cranking at slower RPM. I've done one cold compression test on a blown engine before. Some of you here in mud may recall it was in the Unicorn, which overheated and warped the heads. It best cylinder was 152 PSI worst was ~40PSI next to each other. But not a whole bank flat-lining like this one.
  9. Timing belt cover BK 2 pulled.
  10. Cam BK 2 set dead on timing mark crank ~3 degrees ATDC. How could that be! If I move cam BK 2/belt 1 tooth I don't think it will line up crank to zero.
  11. Leak Down Tester (LDT) hook into cylinder #2 showed 10% leak down cold. How could that be! It should be 90 or 100% leak down with only 10PSI compression. With 90 PSI on LDTester. I could no longer freely turn the crank. Disconnected from tester with all spark plug out, I could easily turn.
  12. On inside floor of the intake manifold, it has what looks like particles of fresh black wet carbon. like blowing out of cylinder camber.
  13. Top of pistons also have this loose carbon looking black wet gunk and it's coming off. Has a can of 44K in the gas that is soaking in even in bk 2 intake ports.
  14. Spark plug tube # 2 has puddle in bottom, which may be fuel a little fuel mix with 44K and gunk..
  15. Look at tops of some pistons in cylinders with only 10PSI with my cheap drain snake cam. Did not see hits, but wet gunky/clean IDK. Inconclusive. One day I'll get real camera. I'd love one with focus and articulating. HINT, I do have a birthday coming up this year!....LOL ;)

This is looking at a piston top, through spark plug tube. The carbon is rough and wet. It may be that the raw fuel with 44K mixed in and the short run times and setting has really allowed the 44K to loosen the carbon. Nice on one hand. But if i get run, I've concerns of what getting into CAT at one time.
IMG_3939.JPG

Throttle body wet and gunky behind butterfly. Looks like some gunk blowing "out" the front. Like is was clean just recently and this is flesh coming out, rather than in.
IMG_3969.JPG

Floor of intake manifold had what looked like fresh specs/splashes of wet carbon.
IMG_3971.JPG

Spark plugs all 8 wet and glazed. Some to clean only #1 had some old carbon cake/build-up remaining on ground electrode.
002.JPG

Puddle in #2 spark plug tube after plug pulled. Subsequent evaporated over night.
026.JPG
 
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Following with interest. Sounds like the belt is out of sync and he’s got buildup issues to boot. Baseline everything and test it all again. Hope it’s not a ruined engine, 2UZs only ever die from negligence.
 
How was the motor running before he dropped it off with this mechanic? I see he says it was running great - no codes etc?
 
He said; ran great. No issue and he's a car guy and not a young man. So been around engine 30 or 40 year.
 
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Pictures of timing marks.

Her's crank (harmonic balance) dead on mark at zero on plastic timing cover.
012.JPG

Hers is cam just a hair before mark, with above crank mark at zero.?
013.JPG

Here I was turning crank until cam came up to top dead center. Now crank 3 degrees pass zero (below
016.JPG

015.JPG


Seems moving one tooth on cam is not going to get these marks line up prefect. One tooth on crank may. But one tooth does not explain no more than ~10 PSI compression in BK 2 and 150 PSI BK 1.

Thoughts?

I've one, but don't want to plant ideas in anyone head! So I'll wait to hear from the community here.
 
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Did they do cam seals while it was apart? It's a long shot, but I seem to remember a story where a cam sprocket got installed incorrectly so the cam itself was way off even when the marks lined up.

But if that were the case, I imagine it would've run like complete crap from the very start, instead of gradually getting worse.
 
ALL cylinders on bank 2 show almost identical compression numbers? I interpret that as a good sign. Actual physical damage is never so precise.

I.e, when my parents' engine got bank 1 cooked by oil loss, bank 2 had perfect compression but bank 1 was all over the place. 90, 145, 130, etc. It definitely sounds like the cam itself is way off, and the valves are closing extremely late in the stroke.
 
Did they do cam seals while it was apart? It's a long shot, but I seem to remember a story where a cam sprocket got installed incorrectly so the cam itself was way off even when the marks lined up.

But if that were the case, I imagine it would've run like complete crap from the very start, instead of gradually getting worse.

I'd think if the alignment was close, the valves would bend more and more with every revolution until they were badly bent. Would explain the current compression results and how he could start it and drive off the lot.

Id look for wrench marks on that bank two cam sprocket...
 
I'd think if the alignment was close, the valves would bend more and more with every revolution until they were badly bent. Would explains the compression results and the worsening run condition.

Hmmm that's a good point...
 
Did they do cam seals while it was apart? It's a long shot, but I seem to remember a story where a cam sprocket got installed incorrectly so the cam itself was way off even when the marks lined up.

But if that were the case, I imagine it would've run like complete crap from the very start, instead of gradually getting worse.
This one is a bit weird. Hypothetical: the shop had a cam sprocket spin on them and made a mistake when realigning/retightening it.
I was told, all seals were done. Also I can see on the backing plate behind sprocket, sprocket, nut all have tooling marks freshly gouged in.


ALL cylinders on bank 2 show almost identical compression numbers? I interpret that as a good sign. Actual physical damage is never so precise.

I.e, when my parents' engine got bank 1 cooked by oil loss, bank 2 had perfect compression but bank 1 was all over the place. 90, 145, 130, etc. It definitely sounds like the cam itself is way off, and the valves are closing extremely late in the stroke.
I agree when. Heads gasket blown and or heads warped from being cooked, compression varies throughout the head as seen in the unicorn which I linked-in earlier. So other than signs of minor coolant leak and temp gauge reportedly only reading at 0 to 1/3 (could be lazy gauge) during month of ownership, no signs of overheating! But running low and hot previously is not ruled out. Fact is reservoir empty the 30 days of ownership and cool just above radiator fins.

All clues seem to just point at botched timing belt job. :hmm:


I'd think if the alignment was close, the valves would bend more and more with every revolution until they were badly bent. Would explain the current compression results and how he could start it and drive off the lot.

Id look for wrench marks on that bank two cam sprocket...

Tooling marks from cam removal. Also knock pin looks okay and in place.
029.JPG

See the pink coolant :watching: 🕵 Just observation, not suggesting.
 
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Good news. As expected all in the green on leak down test cold wet (gas) engine

Leak Down Test.
BK1 not done
BK2 results:
2-10%
4-10%
6-35%
8-20%
Air escaping only heard at crank case.

Still getting heavy gasoline fums, but no where near as bad as 18 hours earlier.
 
So the valves are seated properly at TDC then, it sounds like.
 
Seems So. 35 % LD in #6 is disheartening. But within good band as is 10% & 20%. Also that I can turn the crank without obstruction.

I'll be digging in first chance.

001.JPG


Timing belt FSM VVT remove c.jpg




003 (2).JPG

I got the instinct impression he only saw one mark on crank.
Stock photo of how it should be.
013.JPG
 
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Is that the picture of the crank on this vehicle or on another that you've done?

The above image is set correctly.
Yes! Not this job. Sorry I did not clearly identify that as stock photo from old job I did.

The mechanic that did the job in question, mentioned only one mark on crank/belt. I posted up illustration and photo to show we've more than one mark in relation to crankshaft timing.
 
Yes! Not this job. Sorry I did not clearly identify that as stock photo from old job I did.

The mechanic that did the job in question, mentioned only one mark on crank/belt. I posted up illustration and photo to show we've more than one mark in relation to crankshaft timing.

Are you going to be resetting the timing for this customer? Interested in seeing what you find.
 
^^ From the two cam sprocket pictures it should be VVTi.
 
^^ From the two cam sprocket pictures it should be VVTi.
Good call. Agreed.

Since the car in question here is an 05 (and therefore, non-VVTI), I think we can rule out bent valves.

The situation seems to point towards that low compression bank being out of time, but the cam gears show otherwise. Anxious to see what you find, Paul!
 

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