RTH- Lower Control Arm torque specs (1 Viewer)

[Ratchey]

Does anyone have the torque specs handy for a 2009 LX570?
I found the ones for a Tundra and LC but there are differences.

lower control arm options

Loaded question and YMMV, I just posted a comment on the recent "no budget build" about the "Tundra IFS swap", check that one out and let me know if you have other specific questions. I'm sure there are other pros/cons that have been previously posted. All of the legwork was done by others...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[grinchy]

Does anyone have the torque specs handy for a 2009 LX570?
I found the ones for a Tundra and LC but there are differences.

lower control arm options

Loaded question and YMMV, I just posted a comment on the recent "no budget build" about the "Tundra IFS swap", check that one out and let me know if you have other specific questions. I'm sure there are other pros/cons that have been previously posted. All of the legwork was done by others...

forum.ih8mud.com

here you go

 

[Ratchey]

here you go

Thank you very much.
Is it only the shock and stabilizer linkage that I need to tighten while the wheels are on the ground?
Is it OK of the fronts are on ramps?
Does it matter if it is in H, N or L?

 

[bloc]

Front on ramps counts as being on the ground. LCA bolts, UCA pivot bolt, lower strut bolt, lower sway bar link bolts, upper link bolt on the KDSS arm side.

 

[Ratchey]

Front on ramps counts as being on the ground. LCA bolts, UCA pivot bolt, lower strut bolt, lower sway bar link bolts, upper link bolt on the KDSS arm side.

Thank you very much

 

[bloc]

Thank you very much

One thing I didn’t mention. Roll it back and forth before putting on ramps for final torque. Binding in the arms as the track width widens during suspension compression will keep it from settling into proper ride height. Backing up ten feet then pulling forward onto the ramps will sort this out.

Edit: this depends on how far the toe is out. If there is too much toe in it’ll jack upward as you pull forward. This can be a little tricky to dial in. Just make sure the alignment shop torques to spec when they do their thing. Many are not used to bolts having to be that tight.

 

[Ratchey]

One thing I didn’t mention. Roll it back and forth before putting on ramps for final torque. Binding in the arms as the track width widens during suspension compression will keep it from settling into proper ride height. Backing up ten feet then pulling forward onto the ramps will sort this out.

Edit: this depends on how far the toe is out. If there is too much toe in it’ll jack upward as you pull forward. This can be a little tricky to dial in. Just make sure the alignment shop torques to spec when they do their thing. Many are not used to bolts having to be that tight.

Thanks for the heads up.

I saw you mention the torque in the other thread at over 200 but on the chart above that Grinchy posted it's only 111. So a bit confused there.

 

[bloc]

Thanks for the heads up.

I saw you mention the torque in the other thread at over 200 but on the chart above that Grinchy posted it's only 111. So a bit confused there.

Per the FSM my 2013 cruiser needs the LCA pivot bolts to 207ft-lbf.

It shows the same value for a 2009 LX when I dig into the actual diagrams. @grinchy where did that chart come from?

Edit: looks like grinchy’s chart is for the rear arms.

 

[bloc]

The following are for a 2009 LX

 

[grinchy]

Hmm. That page is for the rear. Sorry about that @Ratchey .

It's from the first section of the FSM (General).

I should have kept the keyword search going until I hit the similar page for front torques page. Totally didn't catch that and glad @bloc did.

Here's the same page but for fronts.

Hopefully I didn't cause you too much heartache and rework @Ratchey

 

[Ratchey]

Awesome. Thanks guys.
No, it won't be a big deal to pop one tire back off and re-torque a couple of bolts.
Having an issue with the drivers side. Couldn't seperate the ball joint from the bracket and managed to completly jam the castle nut on to the point I had to cut the ball joint stem off. Went through 4 metal sawzall blades before finally breaking out the angle grinder and cutting wheel.
So I'm dead in the water without that nut. Not having high hopes the little toyota dealer here has them.
May have to scavenge one off of the ball joints I got from cruiser outfitters that I wasn't able to use. (can't remember if they even came with nuts)

 

[Ratchey]

Alignment was way off once I finished. Even after the alignment some specs are still out of range. I forgot to set it to Normal height so don't know if he aligned it in N or L.
May have it checked again after driving it a bit.