RTH: Front CV Axle installation

[REZARF]

So I have installed 4 Cruiser CV axles into the front over the years for maintenance and reboots... even broke an axle once. 1999 100 series.

I swapped out my Lower Ball Joints the other day and the drivers side went in no problem, but my passenger side is giving me so much grief.

I have everything disconnected as it should be, caliper, TRE, UCA and the LBJ is loose... I cannot seem to get the new PS axle shaft through the hub but it pops into the diff just fine.

I have measured and looked it over, it is exactly the same as the one that was already in there. I can get the outer shaft all the way in except for the last 1/2"pr so then it locks into place with ZERO movement. The shaft was painted so I am going to strip that off, could be gumming up and causing a fitment issue?

I have tried:

• Starting over inserting the axle 3-4 times. Hub first then diff... and diff first then hub but that doesn't work.
• Inserting a bolt into the end of the shaft to pull on... gained a 1/4" max, still came up a 1/2" short.
• Used a ratchet strap to bring the lower and upper control arms together to get better alignment.
• When I spin the axle to get the hub flange lined up the brake rotor spins... so I assume I am engaged?

I am going to run a wire wheel over the spines on the outer shaft and clean the drive flange again, but short of pulling the hub drive flange and bearings any other ideas of how to get this thing on and more importantly can anyone think of a reason it shouldn't just pop in?

Thanks in advance Mud!

 

[bwell]

I just replaced my drivers side, two weeks ago, I had previously been able to leave the hub flange on with the old axle and I could install it fine. New axle I had to pull the flange off to get it seated all the way and then the diff side.

I was able to just pull the flange and you shouldn't have to pull the whole hub and rotor assembly off for any reason.

 

[FxFormat]

I ran into this problem, if your new axle is stiff, it won't turn enough to give you that straight on angle you need with all the stuff in the way, at this point, i'd remove the entire knuckle, so that you have a straight shot at it. Line it up perfectly straight and give a good shove, it should pop in.

 

[2001LC]

If I'm understanding correctly. You can't get the axle through the spindle of the steering knuckle. You mention "paint". Re-builders of front drive shafts (AKA CV's) paint the entire assembly, which is a bad practice. They do this for looks and it also makes axle teeth fit snugly into hub flange, until driven. The paint reduces clearance of the splines/teeth of axle into the splines/teeth of hub flange. The paint also will come off while driving getting into the needle bearing and axle bushing on back side.
Remove the paint, as your thinking, is one option.

Additionally: The outer axle teeth and snap ring groove are more and more worn out in these aging re-built "CV's" Often the dust seal or shield is missing or damaged.

Best practice install new OEM front drive shafts w/new inner snap ring, diff side seal, hub flange, cone washers and outer snap ring to spec of less than .20mm gap. Then pop on a good grease cap. Make sure wheel bearing are properly serviced and very tight. Service every 30K miles. This will yield the best results!

Second best a used front drive shaft that passes inspection of all points.

 

[2001LC]

Another issue I've run across is tip of axle or end of hub flange has taken or been given a hit. This deforms the parts so they don't fit together.

Someone pound axle through the hub flange on this one with steel hammer. I had to knock axle through with a brass drift. It would not have gone back on without force or operated as designed, I replaced the hub flange.

 

[REZARF]

Another issue I've run across is tip of axle or end of hub flange has taken or been given a hit. This deforms the parts so they don't fit together.

Someone pound axle through the hub flange on this one with steel hammer. I had to knock axle through with a brass drift. It would not have gone back on without force or operated as designed, I replaced the hub flange.
View attachment 1990827

Yes on the 4th try I checked for burrs, deformation and anything out of the ordinary... even double checked the spline count.

I’ll strip the paint pull the hub flange and give it a go again.

 

[ikellymo]

Oh I'm having the same issue I think. Can't get my axles to pop back into the diff. I have used snap rings, but I'm getting new ones and trying that. A service tech at the dealer just told me that sometimes the snap rings get stretched and don't work. FSM notes them as a disposable part.

Are there any tricks though?

 

[abuck99]

Oh I'm having the same issue I think. Can't get my axles to pop back into the diff. I have used snap rings, but I'm getting new ones and trying that. A service tech at the dealer just told me that sometimes the snap rings get stretched and don't work. FSM notes them as a disposable part.

Are there any tricks though?

New snap/locking rings each time you remove and install the CV.

Orient the open side down 6 o’clock position. Put a dab of grease on the ring to help hold it in position. Make a reference mark (chalk or paint pen) somewhere at the 12 o’clock position on the axle or tulip so you recall where the open side is. Gently install the axle stub, wiggle the splines back and forth until they mesh and the stub starts to slide into the diff. Then with one hand on the center part of the axle and the other hand on the outer cv give a good shove into the diff. It should lock in with one or two trys. If not, check ring opening orientation and repeat.

 

[Dparo]

I need to redo mine. Toyota used reman CV’s (I was surprised) when the seller and I negotiated the purchase. Those are leaking 18 months later.

 

[ikellymo]

New snap/locking rings each time you remove and install the CV.

Orient the open side down 6 o’clock position. Put a dab of grease on the ring to help hold it in position. Make a reference mark (chalk or paint pen) somewhere at the 12 o’clock position on the axle or tulip so you recall where the open side is. Gently install the axle stub, wiggle the splines back and forth until they mesh and the stub starts to slide into the diff. Then with one hand on the center part of the axle and the other hand on the outer cv give a good shove into the diff. It should lock in with one or two trys. If not, check ring opening orientation and repeat.

Oooooh this sounds so easy. I've pulled my front diff, had the gears swapped and added a locker, and now I'm putting things back together. I'm following these instructions but can't for the life of me get the axle to go in once I get the splines meshed. I've been at it for atleast 4 hours over the course of several days . I bought new snap rings. No amount of force seams to do it and that makes me think I'm missing something. Are they any tricks? Proper tools? Does the recieving diff shaft need to be aligned properly?

 

[mmm635]

Oooooh this sounds so easy. I've pulled my front diff, had the gears swapped and added a locker, and now I'm putting things back together. I'm following these instructions but can't for the life of me get the axle to go in once I get the splines meshed. I've been at it for atleast 4 hours over the course of several days . I bought new snap rings. No amount of force seams to do it and that makes me think I'm missing something. Are they any tricks? Proper tools? Does the recieving diff shaft need to be aligned properly?

Are absolutely sure the cv shaft is parallel to the axle tube? If it is slightly off, the shaft will not go in. Try supporting the cv axle with something in order to keep it parallel, slide the axle in until it locks, and then use a 2x4 on the inner lip to pop the cv axle in once aligned properly. This also helps to insure the seal is seated properly in the groove.

 

[ikellymo]

Thanks! How far should it "easily" slide in? ... or what's the remaining distance that you use the 2x4 for?

 

[Adam OJ]

I haven't done this yet, but I will be giving it a go when my new shafts arrive on Monday...

I saw this video, he makes it look so easy(at 19:06 mark if the link doesn't start there):

 

[ikellymo]

Ha! Thanks. I found that video too. It's not what I'm experiencing. I'm at a loss here. Typically mechanically inclined... I'm an engineer and own a bit of a machine shop. I think there's a brick that I forgot to remove. Or maybe the axle grew a few mm while it was out .

I get the splines engaged, then ... nothing.

 

[Adam OJ]

bummer. I'm watching this thread eagerly so that I too can learn from your "experience". Good luck man, I hope you get it back in there soon.

 

[ikellymo]

Cool. I'll definitely post how I managed to do it once I do.

 

[ikellymo]

Finally got it. I figured that there is a lot of pressure on the snap ring and that there might be too many burrs or edges in the way to allow the ring to compress into place. Once you try to insert it, the ring already has marks on it from the splines attempting to compress it.

Perhaps this is crazy, but I cleaned up the edges of the ring groove with two files, a small square one for the inside and a triangle file for the spline edges.

I also re-shaped the snap ring a bit on the sides that protrude out and get compressed by the splines to give them more of an angle for the splines to push against.

Now the real trick that worked is to put a block of wood against the lower control arm and use a pry bar to actually pry the axle into place. It required so much pressure on my truck that I'm not sure how the impulse from a hammer would ever move it. Maybe I don't have a big enough hammer. But even my 23oz hammer and a 2x2 didn't budge it.

The prying technique was easier on the drivers side than the passenger because the passenger seems to need the ring compressed multiple times to get the axle fully inserted.

Multiple compression points on passenger side.

Since I used a pry bar to remove the axles, I guess the FSM was spot-on when it says "install just as you removed"

 

[abuck99]

Edit: You already got it while I was writing.

Yeah It can be a challenge, but Ive found not getting it seated reverts to lock ring position if splines meshed up properly. If you need to use something to tap it in- a brass drift is the tool- not a 2x4; a good chance of tearing a boot that way.

Assuming the knuckle is completely removed, the method I described uses the inertia and weight of the axle to lock it in. Takes a little finesse. You have to have a really light touch as you mesh the splines in order to keep locking ring from moving. Then when the axle meets resistance pull it back a little and use inertia to pop it into place. Once you get it you’ll understand.

 

[2001LC]

Sometimes, it's so easy. Especially with knuckle off! This one was silly easy:



Yesterday; I R&R a DS Differential side- tube oil seal. Had new OEM inner axle and 2.4MM hub flange snap rings in and gap set too .04mm and wheel on in 90 minutes. That was fast for and old guy. Front Drive Shaft (FDS) didn't want to pop in. So place a jack under lower control arm to raise the front drive shaft, improving it's alignment to the diff.. Still no go. Got under the rig. Twisted the opposing wheel, and DS FDS spun as well! Just wouldn't go in and seat. Grabbed the brass dowel and 5lb sledge that I'd used to pop FDS out the diff. One smack on the dowel, job DONE!

Well almost done! Had to finishing changing the gear lube I'd drain at start of job. By adding 1.8qt M1 75W-90 and torquing both the drain and fill plugs to 37ft-lbf, with new OEM seals.

 

[abuck99]

Good video Paul- perfect execution of what I was describing to do above. A video is so much easier to get the technique across