RTH: drag link rod end thread size

[LAMBCRUSHER]

EDIT:

For posterity; the passenger side relay rod end is a 17mm left hand thread.

According to Toyo DIY and Specter, the fj40 and fj 55 share the same toe rod ends and relay rod ends. Oddly enough, the 4 end “kits” that Specter and other Land Cruiser suppliers sell list the kits as different part numbers for fj40 and fj55. Cruiser Outfitters also sells a separate kit for fj40 and fj55, but their resources page list two different part numbers for the passenger side relay rod ends.

Rock Auto has 555 brand Japanese tie rod ends rebranded as Beck Arnley for a very fair price. They do not differentiate between fj40 or other models for any given year.

The stock tie rod end fj fj40 and fj55 are 21mm x 1.5 left hand thread on the passenger side; right hand thread on the drivers side (left hand drive vehicles)

The stock relay rod ends for fj40 and fj55 are 17mm x 1.5 left hand thread passenger; right hand thread drivers (left hand drive vehicles)

Toyo DIY list the OEM p/n for each end as follows (all the same p/n for fj40 or fj55):
L/H TRE 45046-69035
R/H TRE 45046-69055
L/H RRE 45046-69025
R/H RRE 45045-69015

….

ORIGINAL QUERY:
I'm pretty sure we have all discussed this previously. Alas, my memory is a bit spotty.

I'm trying to get the pig back into daily shape, and I want to upgrade to cross-over steering without breaking the piggy bank.

I'm hoping to make a conversion drag link using a stock rod end on the tie rod side, and an fj80 end on the pitman side.

I know the fj80 ends are 23 x 1.5mm, but I can't seem to nail down the thread size and direction of the fj55 rod end. I think it might be 17 x 1.5mm left hand thread, but I was hoping to get solid intel from the sty prior to seeking out taps, or a shop that could do the job.

If anyone knows a source of weld-in bungs for the stock rod ends, that could be another viable option, as I can source the 23 x 1.5mm weld-in bungs for the pitman side

I hope everyone is doing well!!!

Thank you in advance

 

[scrapdaddy]

When I made my 60 tie rods, the weld in bungs and tube came from Marlin Crawlers through Georg at Valley Hybrids.

 

[RUSH55]

Good question - this is something I’m going to need shortly as well. 80 Series TRE’s seem to be the ones (used to be the ones) everyone goes with, which by my understanding requires the steering arms to be reamed out. The 60 series steering arms (running a 60 front axle) have plenty of beef and can easily be reamed out and still hold up. Stock 55 steering arms are tiny by comparison and don’t think I’d trust reaming them out.

Checked out Marlin’s website. Don’t see weld-in bungs or DOM tubing. On the Marlin site it says they drill and tap the DOM tubing.

Steering Link & Tie Rod Parts

www.marlincrawler.com

Steering Archives - CruiserBrothers

cruiserbrothers.com

 

[RUSH55]

On the other hand, I’m also leaning towards just keeping the 60 series hardware. I ran 55 TRE’s on the stock 55 axle with the Saginaw Scout steering box and never had an issue. Wheeled a lot of places a 55 wasn’t really intended to go - not planning on doing much of that in the future. Keyword - “planning”.

 

[RUSH55]

@LAMBCRUSHER
To return to your original question (without me going off on a tangent), I can’t find anywhere the size and thread pitch of FJ55 TRE’s!
None of the usual sources have that info…

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

@LAMBCRUSHER
To return to your original question (without me going off on a tangent), I can’t find anywhere the size and thread pitch of FJ55 TRE’s!
None of the usual sources have that info…

I'm under the impression they are 17x1.5mm lh/rh on the relay rod, and 21x1.5mm on the actual TREs.

currently looking to make custom 17x1.5mm LH weld in inserts using 1" x .25" wall 4130 DOM, and weld into 1.25" x .120" wall 4130 DOM rod. Given lack of confirmation of what fits what, I'll likely also make a weld in insert for a 21x1.5mm RH so I can use an FJ6X drag link end at the pitman side... it all seems clear as mud tho, at this point

Paging @cruiseroutfit pretty please...

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

My lathe doesn't have a large enough bore to just drill and tap a 1.25" wall tube; hence the weld in insert theory...

 

[cruiseroutfit]

I'm under the impression they are 17x1.5mm lh/rh on the relay rod, and 21x1.5mm on the actual TREs.

currently looking to make custom 17x1.5mm LH weld in inserts using 1" x .25" wall 4130 DOM, and weld into 1.25" x .120" wall 4130 DOM rod. Given lack of confirmation of what fits what, I'll likely also make a weld in insert for a 21x1.5mm RH so I can use an FJ6X drag link end at the pitman side... it all seems clear as mud tho, at this point

Paging @cruiseroutfit pretty please...

Sorry, been traveling. Get this sorted?

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

Sorry, been traveling. Get this sorted?

NO WORRIES!!! THANK YOU!

I think I have it sorted...sorta...

got a piece of 1" x .25 wall DOM, 6" long. Drilled it thru to 15.5mm ID, and ran a 17 x 1.5mm left hand tap 3" into it. Plan is to cut it at 3", then insert it into a length of 1.25" x .120 wall DOM and weld it in on the passenger side. Planning to install the stock fj55 passenger side relay rod end into my insert and lock it in place with a custom 17 x 1.5mm left hand lock nut. Then, I will install a right hand thread fj80 TRE into the drivers side using a store bought weld in insert and lock nut to mate to the fj80 pitman arm. I test fit the fj80 TRE and it seems to fit the pitman just fine - correct me if I've missed something, please!!!

You think I'm barking up the wrong tree with this approach? Any thoughts you can offer are greatly appreciated!

This is just a temporary solution until I completely redo the entire front axle and update the knuckles and steering arms. Not planning on any hardcore wheeling; just tooling around town and the occasional fire road.

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

Back at it…
Tooled a 17mm left hand thread to 1” ID tube adapter, and bought a 23mm right hand thread to 1” ID tube adapet

Tooled frame spacers - cut 3/4” OD X 1/2” ID DOM tube to outside to outside frame width. Beveled outside end, and stepped the inside end 3/16” to 5/8 OD with a bevel. Length from outside end to shoulder on inside is 1.995” +/- .005”; OAL 2.155” +/- .005”.

Removed existing links and steering gear.

Drilled and beveled outside face of the frame to 3/4” and 5/8” on the inside face.

Cut and drilled a fish plate for the outside face of the frame.

Mock mounted the FZJ80 steering gear. Discovered the stop to stop turns is about 4.5-4.6, and that the used box I have seems to be off one tooth on the pitman arm.

Disassembled old links, and discovered the passenger side relay rod end is a right hand thread, while the drivers side is left hand thread. Part references indicate these are not the same part- obviously, and from what I can tell, the passenger side is supposed to be the left hand thread. @cruiseroutfit ??? Possibly, I installed them wrong way around when I replaced them 20 years ago… seems like the LHT end sits deeper in the TRE than the RHT end. Unsure what to do at this point.

I can make a 17mm RHT adapter, if the LHT end is incorrect for that position, but I’m hoping the collective can help me with the answer to this riddle before I go much further.

 

[Half Wacked aka Split Pea]

Need pics is FZJ 80 box the same as FJ 60,

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

Need pics is FZJ 80 box the same as FJ 60,

The pattern is the same as late 60/62 - the early 60, up to ?84?, had a symmetrical bolt pattern. The late 60 - fzj80 shared an asymmetrical bolt pattern. The 80 series box is slightly beefier than the 60/62. I think has a larger sector shaft. The splines on the inputs and outputs are the same. I think.

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

Some pics.
The TRE adapters. Trail gears 23mm RH, and my 17mm LH, along side my 1” schedule 80 chromoly pipe, drilled to 1” one one end for the trail gear adapter. I turned my 17mm LH adapter down to .975”ish to fit inside the pipe. Schedule 80 1” is 1.33” OD, and .960-.975” ID.

I still need to pull the pitman arm to recenter it, and tool a locknut for the 17mm rod end before I make the Final Cut and weld on the drag link, but it’s about 33” long at this time.

Next is to modify the fj60 intermediate steering shaft to adapt to the fj55 column. I think I need to shorten it by a couples inches, and weld it to the steering column end yoke. To do this, I’ll cut the yoke shaft off at .75”, slip it into a .745” ID TUBE, and doing the same to the fj60 intermediate shaft, then welding them together.

It seems I’m only going to get about 2.5 steering wheel turns to go from stop to stop on the actual steering knuckles. As long as the assist works, that shouldn’t be a problem…

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

Oh yeah- and my squirrel…

 

[bobm]

I no see Squirawl!! Whar is it

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

I no see Squirawl!! Whar is it

 

[scrapdaddy]

He looks like what we call a red fox squirrel here in the Midwest. A tad bigger than the grays, but aren't as good eating. (sorry)

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

He looks like what we call a red fox squirrel here in the Midwest. A tad bigger than the grays, but aren't as good eating. (sorry)

Not much to him, I’m afraid. He’s an eastern gray fox squirrel. I suppose in a pinch…

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

Decided I didn’t like my first 17mm adapter, so I made another one, along with a matching locknut (flats still need to be cut…)