RTH: drag link rod end thread size

[LAMBCRUSHER]

…

 

[scrapdaddy]

Good job, it's fun playing with the old Craftsmen.

 

[bobm]

WTF , Hi Ho. You guts a Lathe

 

[bobm]

And a Squirrel . Did you hear about NUTS in New York??

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

I did. The squirrel community is going nuts over it. Kinda squirrelly about the whole thing.

 

[bobm]

Yes it is. SMFkers in dat state 🐿. Take a Squewrl from him and they have an uncontrolable problem go figure

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

NEW QUESTION!!!

OK - both TOYODIY and SOR list the individual tie rod ends and relay rod ends as the same parts for both fj40 and fj55, HOWEVER, many cruiser friendly parts suppliers that stock TRE kits sell a DIFFERENT 4 end kit for fj40s than for fj55s (including SOR - who lists the 4 individual rod ends as the same for both models)

What's the deal with that? Is there actually a physical difference between any of the rod ends?

If there is no difference, since I don't need the left hand relay rod end, I think I'll get the other 3 individual rod ends from Rock Auto who sells Beck/Arnley rebranded 555 brand rod ends.

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

Got the relay rod finished.

Cut the splined section off an fj60 intermediate shaft, and trued and welded it to a cut down fj60 steering shaft receiver yoke.

Installed both into the rig, and took it on a driveway test ride. Steering wheel is straight while I’m going straight, and it doesn’t feel more difficult to steer than manual even tho I don’t have a pump yet.

Next is shock towers, shocks, and the pump.

Then disassemble, rebuild the steering box, finish weld, and paint everything.

Once it’s all done, I’ll update my other power steering thread for future search purposes.

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

…

 

[PabloCruise]

I'm pretty sure we have all discussed this previously. Alas, my memory is a bit spotty.

I'm trying to get the pig back into daily shape, and I want to upgrade to cross-over steering without breaking the piggy bank.

I'm hoping to make a conversion drag link using a stock rod end on the tie rod side, and an fj80 end on the pitman side.

I know the fj80 ends are 23 x 1.5mm, but I can't seem to nail down the thread size and direction of the fj55 rod end. I think it might be 17 x 1.5mm left hand thread, but I was hoping to get solid intel from the sty prior to seeking out taps, or a shop that could do the job.

If anyone knows a source of weld-in bungs for the stock rod ends, that could be another viable option, as I can source the 23 x 1.5mm weld-in bungs for the pitman side

I hope everyone is doing well!!!

Thank you in advance

I am just now getting some time to catch up in here.
In my PS thread for my 40 I found p/n's for the relay and tie rods.
Worst case you could always join the 40/55 (and prob 70) rod to the 80 piece, eh?

 

[PabloCruise]

When I made my 60 tie rods, the weld in bungs and tube came from Marlin Crawlers through Georg at Valley Hybrids.

Gold!!!

 

[PabloCruise]

Good question - this is something I’m going to need shortly as well. 80 Series TRE’s seem to be the ones (used to be the ones) everyone goes with, which by my understanding requires the steering arms to be reamed out. The 60 series steering arms (running a 60 front axle) have plenty of beef and can easily be reamed out and still hold up. Stock 55 steering arms are tiny by comparison and don’t think I’d trust reaming them out.

Checked out Marlin’s website. Don’t see weld-in bungs or DOM tubing. On the Marlin site it says they drill and tap the DOM tubing.

Steering Link & Tie Rod Parts

www.marlincrawler.com

Steering Archives - CruiserBrothers

cruiserbrothers.com

60 front axle - stock width?
Or narrowed?
If stock width, then you can run 60 relay and tie rods, correct?
Or I guess a better question is will a 60 rod take the 80 TRE at the pitman end?

 

[PabloCruise]

Back at it…
Tooled a 17mm left hand thread to 1” ID tube adapter, and bought a 23mm right hand thread to 1” ID tube adapet

Tooled frame spacers - cut 3/4” OD X 1/2” ID DOM tube to outside to outside frame width. Beveled outside end, and stepped the inside end 3/16” to 5/8 OD with a bevel. Length from outside end to shoulder on inside is 1.995” +/- .005”; OAL 2.155” +/- .005”.

Removed existing links and steering gear.

Drilled and beveled outside face of the frame to 3/4” and 5/8” on the inside face.

Cut and drilled a fish plate for the outside face of the frame.

Mock mounted the FZJ80 steering gear. Discovered the stop to stop turns is about 4.5-4.6, and that the used box I have seems to be off one tooth on the pitman arm.

Disassembled old links, and discovered the passenger side relay rod end is a right hand thread, while the drivers side is left hand thread. Part references indicate these are not the same part- obviously, and from what I can tell, the passenger side is supposed to be the left hand thread. @cruiseroutfit ??? Possibly, I installed them wrong way around when I replaced them 20 years ago… seems like the LHT end sits deeper in the TRE than the RHT end. Unsure what to do at this point.

I can make a 17mm RHT adapter, if the LHT end is incorrect for that position, but I’m hoping the collective can help me with the answer to this riddle before I go much further.

View attachment 3762290

We should be able to finger this out by checking a stock rod end for the pitman arm, yes?

 

[PabloCruise]

Oh yeah- and my squirrel…

SQUIRREL!!!

 

[PabloCruise]

NEW QUESTION!!!

OK - both TOYODIY and SOR list the individual tie rod ends and relay rod ends as the same parts for both fj40 and fj55, HOWEVER, many cruiser friendly parts suppliers that stock TRE kits sell a DIFFERENT 4 end kit for fj40s than for fj55s (including SOR - who lists the 4 individual rod ends as the same for both models)

What's the deal with that? Is there actually a physical difference between any of the rod ends?

If there is no difference, since I don't need the left hand relay rod end, I think I'll get the other 3 individual rod ends from Rock Auto who sells Beck/Arnley rebranded 555 brand rod ends.

I did not think there was a difference.

 

[PabloCruise]

Got the relay rod finished.

Cut the splined section off an fj60 intermediate shaft, and trued and welded it to a cut down fj60 steering shaft receiver yoke.

Installed both into the rig, and took it on a driveway test ride. Steering wheel is straight while I’m going straight, and it doesn’t feel more difficult to steer than manual even tho I don’t have a pump yet.

Next is shock towers, shocks, and the pump.

Then disassemble, rebuild the steering box, finish weld, and paint everything.

Once it’s all done, I’ll update my other power steering thread for future search purposes.

View attachment 3768888

View attachment 3768889

View attachment 3768890

View attachment 3768891

View attachment 3768892

Nice!
Are the threads still nice and true after welding?
I was wondering if the heat distorts them?

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

Nice!
Are the threads still nice and true after welding?
I was wondering if the heat distorts them?

I did not muck with the threads. And it turns out that I used the fj62 intermediate to steering gear shaft section, with the small universal at the gear box end, and a spline at the end where it joined to the intermediate shaft. The splined end tapered from the socket portion of the shaft to the splined end. I had to shorten the assembly, so I cut the smaller diameter section (including the alpines) off, leaving about 1 1/2” from the taper. I then cut down the socket end of an fj60 steering gear yoke, leaving about 1/2”, then drilled it out and taper reamed it to accept the taperEd stub of the fj62 shaft assembly. I used a degree gauge to tack it in close to true (took a couple of adjustments), then installed it and checked for wonk. I was surprised that it seemed bang on, so then I forever welded it. No proximity to threads. No warping. (I attribute the success to 52% luck).

 

[PabloCruise]

Thanks!
That is a great description.
I meant to ask this question where you welded the inserts. did the heat from that process mess w/ the threads in the insert?

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

Thanks!
That is a great description.
I meant to ask this question where you welded the inserts. did the heat from that process mess w/ the threads in the insert?

View attachment 3769537

I *think* it felt like the fit was ever so slightly tighter after cooling. I was still able to thread the rod ends in by hand. Both ends are fit with jamb nuts to lock the end to rod clocking.

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

@PabloCruise, LMK if you want any inserts made. I have the 17mm x1.5 LH tap, but can easily get RH or 21mm taps. 23mm weld in inserts are widely available for relative chump change. I just need to know the thread and actual ID of the tubing being used. The tube I used is 1.38”OD X .975-.980” ID, and the insert I made was easy to install by hand, but took channel locks to pull out.