ROTW: Fiona (2 Viewers)

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Well a big thanks goes out to Joel for seriously helping a brother out with a birfield, it shoed up today sometime a little before 2pm.

thing looks great, can tell it was attached to an axle but the innards dont look like they have ever been run. So thank you very much again man!!
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picked up some spring perches today from the dodge dealer they are for a dana / spicer 60 axle with leafs, the part number is P4120074. I got the part number from THIS thread. Now i had some trouble getting these as the guy behind the counter at the dodge place by my house didnt know what a "MTG KIT" was and couldnt pull a picture up to verify it was what i was wanting... he told me he was gonna order them, so when i got there yesterday evening to pick them up they wernt there.... he told me since he didnt know what they were he didnt want to order them... anyhow manager looked at the screen for 1 second and told him it was a mounting kit.... anyhow before this i was behind the counter looking with him at some different stuff as he was trying to find the picture... and i saw the list and cost of these, in the thread i linked he paid like 10 bux a box and there are 2 perches in a box, well my dealer was trying to charge me 15 something a box, it was plain as day on his screen that each box cost them $7.46 and that list price was $10.00 even yet he was trying to charge me over list! WTF? for those of you that have never sold parts before cost if what they get it for and list is what the manufacture suggest and retail (what you pay) is usually a little under list or at list price, and here he was telling me to pay over list... so i was a littl pissed by that. anyhow fast forward to when they wernt there the manager told me he would met me have em at their cost of $7.46. good im happyish again it at least covered my wasted fuel.

I will be using these for the SOA on this truck.

anyhow here is a picture of the mounts he boxes and my receipt.
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last pic of the perch box.

also in the other thread it was brought up about bent u bolts unless using the ruff stuff kit of perches... well i sarted thinking and thought of a similar idea that many of you have already thought of anyhow he decided to do it and should have some pics at some point in time
HERE is the post to that.
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Well a big thanks goes out to Joel for seriously helping a brother out with a birfield, it shoed up today sometime a little before 2pm.

thing looks great, can tell it was attached to an axle but the innards dont look like they have ever been run. So thank you very much again man!!

Your welcome bro... your lucky I just found it last month
 
I worked on this peice of s*** today...
She has me a little pissed off...
guess its payback for not having used her for so long, i love her but i forgot how much of a bitch she can be.

pics later, shower and food come first.
 
ok well today i brought home my 60 so i could replace the busted birf i broke at roundup last march.

tore it down and decided now was a good time to see if my hy steer would clear and get it installed. so that is where the pics start.

this the trail gear kit, i got it on sale a while back. i thought i had ordered the angled pitman arm but apparently not. ill get it on and see it it will work or not. if it does cool if it doesnt ill either get another or do some notching.
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1.) got all the crap out of the housing
2.) messed up my marlin seal... had to put a stocker back in there for now.
3.) pic of the birf ball and busted piece of the birf
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1.) another of the damage.
2.) i wasnt paying attention when putting the birf back on the axle and snapped the c clip in half. so i decided to do the mar tack or marlin tack on the axle shaft. (welded)
3.) mar tack ground even with the splines

for the marlin tack i did a quick search on here and found the info on another site HERE (i had to highlight the background to see it for some reason...) anyhow...

the reason for the mar tack is to keep the axle shaft from sliding out of the birf and going into the differential, you dont have to wory about it going to far into the birf cause it had that larger clip to keep that from happening. not to mention you dont have to bang apart the birf and axle shaft anymore or worry about havin to get that stupid clip in there anymore. all the information i came across said to leave 1-1/2" - 1-3/8" of splines for the diff. then after the tack is made grind it even with the splines and your done. the idea was to fill the gap. no need to get it hot or anything all your trying to do is get it on there enough to keep it from coming off. it wont see much stress so you wont need alot of heat, plus heating the axle shaft could have a less than desirable effect.

i read about this a long time ago and found it a great idea so after i broke my clip (and it reminded me about it as i knew i needed to do something) i figured it a great time to get it done.

EDIT:
I wanted to add a little info from another thread i had started about the mar tack to this, hopefully it will help someone wanting more info on it down the road.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/347574-outter-c-clip-birf-inside-hub.html <---- thats the thread.
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1.) another of the welds ground smooth
2.) showing length of splines before tack, I made 3 tacks and this is the highest of them all. came in right in between the recomended spline lengths so im happy, the other 2 tacks are right at the longer 1-1/2" spline length
3.) nother one of the tacks.
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1.) clearer shot
2.) got the birf i got from Joel all packed and onto the shaft.
3.) and old seal out.

thats all the pics i took, i got the knuckle back on but i had a knuckle bearing failure / me apparently not pay attention and tore it up and smashed it. so now i need a couple of bearings. i have a link to the thread HERE on some of that information. so if anyone knows where to get a knuckle bearing locally please let me know, if you have a part number thats even better, as this big girl is tore apart in my driveway right now.
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rain today and freezing temps tonight but to be 52 tomorrow. hopefully it dries up enough to be tollerable and im not to hung over to get some work done.

Im going to take advantage of this little bit of extra time i have with the truck at the house to do a couple of extra things...

stay tuned yall.
 
Sorry bro no spare bearings ... Nice to see you gettin it done
 
Sorry bro no spare bearings ... Nice to see you gettin it done

thanks Joel, a buddy of mine told me today he has one i can have just need to go and get it.

also gonna pick up his 54mm socket cause it makes life much easier, and he also has a thread repairing tool thing (i dont know the name, looks like a file and is for different thread pitches) my u bolts have taken a couple of hits from some rocks nicking the threads and i plan on re using them...
 
thanks Joel, a buddy of mine told me today he has one i can have just need to go and get it.

also gonna pick up his 54mm socket cause it makes life much easier, and he also has a thread repairing tool thing (i dont know the name, looks like a file and is for different thread pitches) my u bolts have taken a couple of hits from some rocks nicking the threads and i plan on re using them...

You hit your u-bolts on some rocks and only nicked the threads? Sounds like you're not wheeling hard enough:D

Oh yeah, about the pitman arm. Pick up an 80 series arm and run that. Cheapest option and highest possible clearance without cutting the frame up.
 
bla bla bla:flipoff2:

upon closer inspection looks like i only hit em a couple of times but it dround them down at an angle:lol: but somehow didnt bent them much at all! needless to say the thread fixer upper wasnt quite enough for em so i just took my cut off wheel and ground down the messed up lower portions and used the thread fixer on the upper portions.
 
bla bla bla:flipoff2:

upon closer inspection looks like i only hit em a couple of times but it dround them down at an angle:lol: but somehow didnt bent them much at all! needless to say the thread fixer upper wasnt quite enough for em so i just took my cut off wheel and ground down the messed up lower portions and used the thread fixer on the upper portions.

Nice man. Now why are you taking the time to clean up the u-bolts? You aren't planning on re-using old bolts are you?

BTW, have any info on your Dodge online? I'm interested in getting into that truck so I can swap the drivetrain into my 60.
 
OOk well todays update... what was originally just a birfield replacement seems to have taken a slight turn...

1.) how i left it the other day after i smashed the bearing (i found out why by the way)
2.) same
3.) pinion angle at full droop with how suspension is / was.


:EDIT:
i should mention that the next posts for todays update were not really thought out or pre meditated, more of a "ya know what screw it im doin it" kinda thing.
i may not be doing it the way some would suggest or any of that crap but im doing it my way and if it doesnt work i can always fix it later.
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Nice man. Now why are you taking the time to clean up the u-bolts? You aren't planning on re-using old bolts are you?

BTW, have any info on your Dodge online? I'm interested in getting into that truck so I can swap the drive train into my 60.

yea ill be re using them, well not the fronts cause they are square but yea. i know it is rather frowned upon but its what im having to do for now.

as far as info on my dodge what are you looking for? anything in specific? are you wanting a mechanical p pump truck or a electronic injection pump like my 01 has?
 
yea ill be re using them, well not the fronts cause they are square but yea. i know it is rather frowned upon but its what im having to do for now.

as far as info on my dodge what are you looking for? anything in specific? are you wanting a mechanical p pump truck or a electronic injection pump like my 01 has?

I've always been fond of the 6BT motors so I think I want one. Before diving into one of those trucks, I want to learn as much as possible. From my research I think I want a 1995-1997 6BT+NV4500 as they produce the most power and use the inline injection pump. The 24 valve ISB motors are smoother, right? How complicated are the ISB motor's electronics?

Suggestions on reading material?
 
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