- Thread starter
- #21
I'll use this going forward, thanks!
Rotors warped again (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter SHIfTHEAD
- Start date
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Just to add my $0.02, all brake system components should stay oem IMO. Stainless steel braided lines are a gimmick. Replace with oem lines.
I run 35s on the street and can kick in abs on dry backtop.
I never cut rotors. I replace them. I routinely rebuild calipers on all 4 corners.
It's more important to stop than to go.
I run 35s on the street and can kick in abs on dry backtop.
I never cut rotors. I replace them. I routinely rebuild calipers on all 4 corners.
It's more important to stop than to go.
One other thing to check, with the hubs/bearings removed from the spindle
check the spindle closely for wear, specifically the OD of the spindle.
What often happens with loose wheel bearings is the outer bearing will rock and spin (the inner race which shouldn't move) on the spindle. That rocking can form a step or circumferential "dent" where the outer bearing rides, usually shows up first on the underside of the spindle tube between 3 and 9 O'clock.
To test that you can take an outer bearing (new is best as the old bearing inner race ID could also be worn) and push it by itself onto the spindle tube, then see if it rocks between 6 and 12 o'clock or 3 and 9. There should be no movement in the X or Y axis ie: a spindle (OD) and bearing (ID) with no wear should fit snugly with zero movement side-to-side, top-to-bottom.
IME if there is wear as described above then no amount of preload will hold for very long. The fix is new spindles and new bearings. OR, in a pinch you can "stake" or "Knurl" the low area of the spindle to essentially increase the OD of the spindle.
Staking in this context means putting a bunch of little dings into the low side of the spindle surface which forms mini-craters and the rim of many mini-craters raises the OD.
This is a lost art (old timer mechanics) and I'm not a mechanic (or an artist), but I've staked spindles myself and it worked to increase the OD of the spindle slightly so the outer bearings fit snugly. Was meant to be a temp fix but those spindles are still running 13 years and ~100,000 miles later.
FWIW
check the spindle closely for wear, specifically the OD of the spindle.
What often happens with loose wheel bearings is the outer bearing will rock and spin (the inner race which shouldn't move) on the spindle. That rocking can form a step or circumferential "dent" where the outer bearing rides, usually shows up first on the underside of the spindle tube between 3 and 9 O'clock.
To test that you can take an outer bearing (new is best as the old bearing inner race ID could also be worn) and push it by itself onto the spindle tube, then see if it rocks between 6 and 12 o'clock or 3 and 9. There should be no movement in the X or Y axis ie: a spindle (OD) and bearing (ID) with no wear should fit snugly with zero movement side-to-side, top-to-bottom.
IME if there is wear as described above then no amount of preload will hold for very long. The fix is new spindles and new bearings. OR, in a pinch you can "stake" or "Knurl" the low area of the spindle to essentially increase the OD of the spindle.
Staking in this context means putting a bunch of little dings into the low side of the spindle surface which forms mini-craters and the rim of many mini-craters raises the OD.
This is a lost art (old timer mechanics) and I'm not a mechanic (or an artist), but I've staked spindles myself and it worked to increase the OD of the spindle slightly so the outer bearings fit snugly. Was meant to be a temp fix but those spindles are still running 13 years and ~100,000 miles later.
FWIW
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- Thread starter
- #24
I'm closing the loop on this one with my final solution. In the end I found that the problem was likely two-fold. Initially the bad vibrations were warped rotors from stuck calipers. The second time I had bad vibes might have been rotors, but I now suspect it was a loose wheel bearing. So I was tired with chasing this gremlin and decided to fix this damn thing. I put the truck up on 4 jack stands pulled the wheels and started it and put into Drive. Found that the rear rotors were dragging pretty bad and one was very warped. The calipers were shot so I bought OEM front and rear rotors, new rear calipers, new SS brake lines and went to work.
The hardest part of the whole job was having to replace two hardlines because the factory torqued them so hard it flared the brake line nut so it wouldn't go into the new lines. Oh and getting brake fluid all over the place. In the end the problem is solved. So it was bad front rotors caused by bad front calipers, then bad rear rotors caused by bad calipers. In between I replaced two sets of probably good rotors because the nuts backed off the wheel bearings.
Now it's totally smooth, no pulsing. All I had to do it replace everything.
The hardest part of the whole job was having to replace two hardlines because the factory torqued them so hard it flared the brake line nut so it wouldn't go into the new lines. Oh and getting brake fluid all over the place. In the end the problem is solved. So it was bad front rotors caused by bad front calipers, then bad rear rotors caused by bad calipers. In between I replaced two sets of probably good rotors because the nuts backed off the wheel bearings.
Now it's totally smooth, no pulsing. All I had to do it replace everything.
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lexustruck
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #27
Time will tell, but I am damn sure going to check them before anymore new rotors go on that truck!
You need to bleed this LSPV like a mad man., we ran a 32 oz bottle thru my LSVP before the bubbles and crud finally stopped (And this was after getting a brake flush by a local autoshop)
- Thread starter
- #29
Yeah, I found that as well. I ran almost that much through, nearly 2 quarts myself. Having the pressure bottle bleeder system with he Toyota adapter makes bleeding brakes a breeze. But you're right, so much garbage came out well after the bubbles were gone.
alia176
SILVER Star
I run NAPA rotors and I use the method below to deglaze them between pad swapping. Unless you're racing on the weekends, there's a small chance that your rotors are not warped, they're simply built up from brake pad material transference in an uneven fashion.
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