Rosie the Riveter Build. (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter LittleJohn
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No lack of heart and determination..I admire that....good luck John...
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- #124
Weekend Update.
So the motor and trans are in. Mounts are fabricated/modified and in place. Turns out the driveshafts are a direct crossover. Gsb15 and I were talking and we think that that is because I mounted the motor to fit the shifter tower instead of fabing a new floor section. The running theory is that Toyota originally made the fj40 with the 2f and a 4spd. Then they made bj40 with the 3B and a 4spd. Then they buttoned a 5spd to the 3B but left it mounted in the same place. That would explain why when you do just a 4-5spd swap you need to account for a different shift tower placement, but I didn't. I just lost some space in my engine bay that I just got because I lopped off two cylinders... sooooo entire drive line is installed. Sweet
Also the fuel tank is back on. I had to make new straps for it so I made them out of stainless so they won't rust again. We sandblasted and painted the tank so it is good as new.
Detail paint on the motor.
In she goes
Extending the trans mount to fit the 40 frame.
Modifying one of the engine mounts.
The pre weld fit.
So the motor and trans are in. Mounts are fabricated/modified and in place. Turns out the driveshafts are a direct crossover. Gsb15 and I were talking and we think that that is because I mounted the motor to fit the shifter tower instead of fabing a new floor section. The running theory is that Toyota originally made the fj40 with the 2f and a 4spd. Then they made bj40 with the 3B and a 4spd. Then they buttoned a 5spd to the 3B but left it mounted in the same place. That would explain why when you do just a 4-5spd swap you need to account for a different shift tower placement, but I didn't. I just lost some space in my engine bay that I just got because I lopped off two cylinders... sooooo entire drive line is installed. Sweet
Also the fuel tank is back on. I had to make new straps for it so I made them out of stainless so they won't rust again. We sandblasted and painted the tank so it is good as new.
Detail paint on the motor.
In she goes
Extending the trans mount to fit the 40 frame.
Modifying one of the engine mounts.
The pre weld fit.
I bought one but your dad has one at the hanger.Where did you
Find a soldering iron?
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- #125
Monday night update.
Got fluids in everything. Tried to get it running but no go .
So i now have a question to pose to the masses. I've got a 3B that I can't figure out why it won't start. I know the timing is good because I did it correct the first time. Then I doubted myself and tore timing cover off and did it again, and if you don't mess the timing marks up on the gears the only place you can screw up is when you attach the gear to the injector pump and I know that is done correctly. So my question is can any of you think of why it may not start. I have fuel at the injectors. It isn't a lot and doesn't seem to be under high pressure but I'm use to Cat and Perkins so I'm not sure if that's normal on a 3B. I'm getting new glow plugs tomorrow. Good think to because I tested mine tonight and they are dead. I was using a blowtorch to make sure the system was getting hot air. I was using a new good battery that I charged half way through when it started to get low. The only think o can think of is for some reason I'm not getting enough fuel. Also I haven't done tee advance or retard timing because we'll it won't start so there is that. Should the 3B start positioned anywhere in the grooves for advance or retard?
Trans cross member extension.
Little Victory decorating.
Drive shafts and stainless fuel tank straps in.
Aaaaaaaaaand oil.
Got fluids in everything. Tried to get it running but no go .
So i now have a question to pose to the masses. I've got a 3B that I can't figure out why it won't start. I know the timing is good because I did it correct the first time. Then I doubted myself and tore timing cover off and did it again, and if you don't mess the timing marks up on the gears the only place you can screw up is when you attach the gear to the injector pump and I know that is done correctly. So my question is can any of you think of why it may not start. I have fuel at the injectors. It isn't a lot and doesn't seem to be under high pressure but I'm use to Cat and Perkins so I'm not sure if that's normal on a 3B. I'm getting new glow plugs tomorrow. Good think to because I tested mine tonight and they are dead. I was using a blowtorch to make sure the system was getting hot air. I was using a new good battery that I charged half way through when it started to get low. The only think o can think of is for some reason I'm not getting enough fuel. Also I haven't done tee advance or retard timing because we'll it won't start so there is that. Should the 3B start positioned anywhere in the grooves for advance or retard?
Trans cross member extension.
Little Victory decorating.
Drive shafts and stainless fuel tank straps in.
Aaaaaaaaaand oil.
If a 3b won't start, it's usually air.
I see you have the original primer pump on there, the bosch one is worth the 30 bucks. Factory ones tend to leak.
I've had to crack the bleeders on the injection pump itself in the past. Fuel gets thru it to the injectors so you think its bled, but whether it was an airlock inside it or what, it wouldn't run for me.
Can't help with timing internals, I left all that alone on the ones ive had.
I see you have the original primer pump on there, the bosch one is worth the 30 bucks. Factory ones tend to leak.
I've had to crack the bleeders on the injection pump itself in the past. Fuel gets thru it to the injectors so you think its bled, but whether it was an airlock inside it or what, it wouldn't run for me.
Can't help with timing internals, I left all that alone on the ones ive had.
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stevebradford
In the shop
I had a lot of trouble starting mine off just one battery it would crank but just dident have the speed to start cold. Also if you removed the edic motor the swing arm on the pump typically gives it extra fuel while cranking. That arm also shuts the fuel off in the forward position so it needs to be centered. In my experience the timing marks on the pump don't make a noticeable difference and was told to leave it alone centered on the mark. Sounds like you have fuel up top but in case you haven't when ever those injector lines come off. tighten them to the pump and leave them loose on the injectors and crank till they spill diesel out all of them then tighten them down.
I've only had a 3B not start on me for 2 reasons. The first time I was driving back home from the Kootneys and over revved it coming down one of the big hills, and after I pulled and got the injection pump rebuilt it worked for the next 15 years and still does. 2nd time I accidently left a paper rag in the fuel tank inlet when I was fixing a rust hole in the fuel tank. Anyway that took a while to develop, a long time to diagnose, and then a long time for all the little paper pieces to work out of the system, even after a million flushes through a pump and filter I rigged up. Not sure if this last one would be an issues, but if there is some clogging in the system and you say it doesn't look like it isn't getting enough fuel, might be worth a check of all the filters and lines to make sure they are clear. The sediment filter could be clogged up too if it sat for a really long time?
This little trick got me home a few times when my fuel system was plugged with a bunch of shredded paper pieces
Nice...
It's funny, my last 3b, I figgered I'd give it a flush with some seafoam. While it was idling, I pulled off the fuel line, stuck it in can of sea foam, then reconnected when it was empty.
figgered I'd get air in it for sure, but my primer pump leaked like a sieve and I didn't want to get diesel all over me if I didn't have to.
Engine didn't hesitate for a second.
jeez. Now I'm getting all nostalgic. I need another 3b.
this is the little bosch pump I was referring to.
It's funny, my last 3b, I figgered I'd give it a flush with some seafoam. While it was idling, I pulled off the fuel line, stuck it in can of sea foam, then reconnected when it was empty.
figgered I'd get air in it for sure, but my primer pump leaked like a sieve and I didn't want to get diesel all over me if I didn't have to.
Engine didn't hesitate for a second.
jeez. Now I'm getting all nostalgic. I need another 3b.
this is the little bosch pump I was referring to.
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Prime the injection pump, then prime the injectors.
Also check at No1 TDC that the valves are closed. If that checks out its an air problem.
Also, Nice work on the 040 casting (5 bearing cam 3B)
Also check at No1 TDC that the valves are closed. If that checks out its an air problem.
Also, Nice work on the 040 casting (5 bearing cam 3B)
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Just got off an accidental 12hr shift. Truck and trailer broke down downtown. I spent 3 hours chasing electrical systems after someone drove away from their trailer without disconnecting the wiring first. Got it all wired back up , to how the last guys did the truck not to the diagrams of course. Then couldn't figure out why the trailer breaks wouldn't work. I ended up driving it back to the shop, because the owner didn't feel comfortable driving it through downtown in rush hour without breaks. Get to the shop and discover that the breaks do work, they just haven't been adjusted since 2014 and they are so far out they aren't doing anything. hmmmm there's your problem. So I don't think I'm going to get anything done tonight. This is working on it...right? research.
That is how we are trying to run it right now but I have the tank on the floor so I'm going to try with it higher than the motor. Positive pressure and all. I'll take any little help I can get.
The primer pump that it came with was stock and it did leak like a sieve. Actually imagine that trying to prime with a sieve, it was that bad. The one I have now is the same style but an aftermarket upgrade. It looks the same but is made of metal and apparently they work WAY better and last MUCH longer. Not that I plan on doing a lit of priming once this gets running but you know what I mean.
I'll re-prime the injector lines, top and bottom, and you cant adjust the ratio of crank to valve timing they are keywayed. That eliminates the whole TDC thing and the timing marks on the injector pump are all lined up so I don't think it could be that. I'm so sure on this one because I HATE doing the same thing twice because of ignorance so I made sure the timing was correct this time (round two)
I was talking to a guy at work today and he mentioned that it may be as simple as it being the glow plugs. Apparently we had a shop truck that was a circus show balancing act between glow plugs and cranking to get to start before the battery died. I don;t think it is that bad. It did start on the floor with no love at all when I first got it so...
also I didn't know that was what 040 stood for. That makes me very happy to hear. Thanks for the info.
I've got dual batteries for it so I'll try that tomorrow.
This little trick got me home a few times when my fuel system was plugged with a bunch of shredded paper pieces
View attachment 1429900
View attachment 1429901
That is how we are trying to run it right now but I have the tank on the floor so I'm going to try with it higher than the motor. Positive pressure and all. I'll take any little help I can get.
Nice...
It's funny, my last 3b, I figgered I'd give it a flush with some seafoam. While it was idling, I pulled off the fuel line, stuck it in can of sea foam, then reconnected when it was empty.
figgered I'd get air in it for sure, but my primer pump leaked like a sieve and I didn't want to get diesel all over me if I didn't have to.
Engine didn't hesitate for a second.
jeez. Now I'm getting all nostalgic. I need another 3b.
this is the little bosch pump I was referring to.
The primer pump that it came with was stock and it did leak like a sieve. Actually imagine that trying to prime with a sieve, it was that bad. The one I have now is the same style but an aftermarket upgrade. It looks the same but is made of metal and apparently they work WAY better and last MUCH longer. Not that I plan on doing a lit of priming once this gets running but you know what I mean.
I'll re-prime the injector lines, top and bottom, and you cant adjust the ratio of crank to valve timing they are keywayed. That eliminates the whole TDC thing and the timing marks on the injector pump are all lined up so I don't think it could be that. I'm so sure on this one because I HATE doing the same thing twice because of ignorance so I made sure the timing was correct this time (round two)
I was talking to a guy at work today and he mentioned that it may be as simple as it being the glow plugs. Apparently we had a shop truck that was a circus show balancing act between glow plugs and cranking to get to start before the battery died. I don;t think it is that bad. It did start on the floor with no love at all when I first got it so...
also I didn't know that was what 040 stood for. That makes me very happy to hear. Thanks for the info.
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Is the Edic disconnected? it will default to the run position when disconnected
stevebradford
In the shop
Yes it will. but it won't get the extra fuel for the start making a cold start more difficult.
They will start without going into over injection mode..
Once of the old tricks to starting a 3B without glow plugs workig, poor hot water over the head or even heater blowing on the engine to get it warm then it should start.
Once of the old tricks to starting a 3B without glow plugs workig, poor hot water over the head or even heater blowing on the engine to get it warm then it should start.
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ok so I got it running and I will try and post some pictures of it when I get the time but right now am going like a madman trying to get this thing running and back on the road by Monday (Sun, Mon, are my day of this week) and just don't have the time. I just got home at 1:21 am.
I've hit a roadblock. Even thought it runs I need the throttle linkage for a 3-b in order to be able to make it work, you know properly. does anyone have one they would be willing to donate/sell/trade for something interesting.
I've hit a roadblock. Even thought it runs I need the throttle linkage for a 3-b in order to be able to make it work, you know properly. does anyone have one they would be willing to donate/sell/trade for something interesting.
Try a tractor store... They had all sorts of nice throttle cables at the one by my place in ontario before...
stevebradford
In the shop
I bet tractor stores have loads of great stuff do we have a tractor store around?
stevebradford
In the shop
I haven't used it my self but I have read on mud where guys used bike brake cables... stock setup is better I'm sure
i probably have something stashed away, from 40 and 60 series but I'm away at work for another couple weeks. Sorry dude!
i've used those in a pinch and they work well. I've got a pile of those also if you need a few.
