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- #581
Been wanting one of these for years.
Builds Roma's 78 fj40 gets a refurb (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter roma042987
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- Thread starter
- #582
Didn't think of it till today but, last May I ditched the factory 15"s and BFG all terrains and installed these city racer 16"s and mud terrain 255-85s my friend Tucker gave me.
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- #583
In late 2012 I replaced the original master cylinder with a Cruiser Corp o.e. style replacement. I didn't have any complaints about it until 2018 when it started leaking fluid from the reservoir base seals. I initially thought the caps had leaked but upon closer inspection it was apparent the reservoir bodies were dry and the fluid was coming from the bases. I was at SAS #2 in Colorado at the time and I guess the rough terrain did it's number on it. It pissed fluid all over the rear circuit prop valve and my steering shaft quickly causing them to rust. I made a note to replace it asap, but oddly enough with normal driving conditions (pavement) it didn't seam to leak again.
In preparation for swapping this engine out and to gain a little more real estate for the 15bf venturi I wanted to replace the original booster with a smaller counterpart. I picked up a new City Racer booster and a disc/drum 80 series non abs master.
In preparation for swapping this engine out and to gain a little more real estate for the 15bf venturi I wanted to replace the original booster with a smaller counterpart. I picked up a new City Racer booster and a disc/drum 80 series non abs master.
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- #584
I picked up a new flaring tool for the job and a roll of nickel/copper tubing. I've always used steel tubing before with good results but figured I'd give this stuff a shot since it doesn't rust.
While attending the first 70 series meet and greet in Cullman Alabama quiet a few years ago, I nearly flipped the 40 over backwards while fooling around on an embankment. I wish I had the event on video because I'm sure it was quiet a sight. I think @OGBeno May have witnessed the spectacle. Anyway, when the the nose came down the jar caused my brake line to snap near the firewall. (it had apparently chaffed on something at some point and was already compromised). I had to do a field repair to get back home. You can see the union I had installed for the brake lines in this photo. Since I was needing to modify the lines for the new master cylinder, I figured this would be a good time to make new ones for the firewall to replace the patch job.
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nicop lines work great except on axle housings where if snagged can bend and kink easier than steel. Especially when going through brush.
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- #586
In short order I bent up these lines. The NiCop tubing doesn't really require a bender, it's much more malleable than the steel stuff. Not sure I like that quality of it just yet.
Mock up while trying to decide how to mount the new prop valve.
I had this Wilwood prop valve I'd purchased a few years back that I never used and figured I'd try it first instead of the reproduction valve that Roger aka City Racer now offers. I made up this bracket out of a piece of aluminum angle I had laying around.
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- Thread starter
- #587
I finally replaced the original circa 1978 booster vacuum hose.
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- #588
Comparison of the extra space.
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- #589
I also installed these wire rock guards for the headlights I found in my desk today. Apparently I bought them a few years ago and forgot all about them. They give a more original look to the flatter profile of the new semi sealed Toyota headlamps.
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- Thread starter
- #590
Yep I can definitely see that happening! I'm on the fence about the NiCop, I think ultimately stainless would be pretty slick assuming it's harder to bend like the regular steel tubing.
Struggling with this decision on my build. I really like the 80 series tubing. Just don’t know what it is or where to buy it.
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- #592
I haven't dealt much with 80 series trucks aside from robbing the rear lockers out of them
I did own a 91 80 series at one point but never really did anything with it. Do they have some sort of stainless brake tubing?
It looks like steel and coated.I haven't dealt much with 80 series trucks aside from robbing the rear lockers out of them
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- #594
I got the brakes bled last night and since it was raining out, I figured it would be a good opportunity to adjust the rear prop valve. A bit disappointed to find out with the valve adjusted to full restriction the rear wheels still lock up first. I'm pretty confident it was like this prior to the master cylinder replacement and the prop valve on it previously didn't alleviate the issue either. Now I'm wondering if I should try Roger's reproduction factory style valve and if that doesn't have the desired affect run it in conjunction with the Wilwood unit.
Roma, perhaps you did this anyway. If not, if you are using an 80 series non ABS master cylinder you may wanna confirm which port on the master goes to the front vs back. I think it is reversed where rear port goes to front and front port goes to rear. It’s been a while since I did one. Hope this is helpful.
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- #596
Interesting CD would this perhaps something I would need an FSM for an 80 to confirm. I "assumed" the front port goes to the front circuit.
Trudge through this
forum.ih8mud.com
Front vs Rear ports on master cylinder?
I deleted ABS and LSPV on my truck several years ago. I'm working on a brake system overhaul and I came across something that's making me doubt my brake line routing. Which port on the MC goes where after ABS delete? I had always assumed the rear/side port near the firewall went to the front...
forum.ih8mud.com
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- #598
In an effort to fix the front to rear brake bias I realized I had the prop valve routed incorrectly in terms of the in/out ports. I fixed that and it seems better but have yet to try it on wet pavement or gravel.
I threw on this spare tire cover that @Gun Runner 5 graciously sent me.
I threw on this spare tire cover that @Gun Runner 5 graciously sent me.
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- #599
Last night I burned the midnight oil building this seat belt attachment for the kids seats. I meant to do this three years ago when I installed the seat but never got around to it. I wanted something noninvasive that I could remove and not have to drill any holes in the floor for.
The L shaped pieces are 2" wide 3/8 flat bar (like the forward portion of the seat attachments) welded to 1/4 by 5" plate to reinforce the E-track.
With the seat folded forward I can use it as an achor point as well.
The L shaped pieces are 2" wide 3/8 flat bar (like the forward portion of the seat attachments) welded to 1/4 by 5" plate to reinforce the E-track.
With the seat folded forward I can use it as an achor point as well.
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Needs some hot Alabama sun to relax the wrinkles.
