Build Roma's 78 fj40 gets a refurb

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When I originally installed the 3b in this 40 almost 11 years ago I didn't have much luck finding a radiator with the correct left side upper and lower outlets. That particular radiator would have only come in late model bj42s which had p/s. So, at that time I pieced together a two- or three-piece lower radiator hose that snaked over to the right side of the radiator (like in a 2f fj40), it's worked, but I was never very fond of it. Since that time, aluminum radiators with the proper orientation have flooded the market, I think I installed one at some point in the 40 (don't recall the outlet orientation I got) and it has always weaped coolant. I'm not a fan of the aluminum radiators since I've had a few of them in my cruisers over the years and they have all leaked, either new out of the box or shortly after installation. Bottom line is, when I install this engine, I'm either A. going to have a custom stainless water pipe made to cross the lower coolant pipe or B. bite the bullet and order a $700 brass/copper rad from AU.

I have another MegaCruiser oil pan ordered for this 15bf as well as a new venturi to replace the broken one, they haven't shipped yet, so fingers crossed the order isn't cancelled. I also need to figure out which alternator I can bolt onto this thing as well. The one it came with is 24 volt and my 40 is 12 volt. I've read that HZ alternators work on these engines and read elsewhere that 1FZ and HZ alternators are interchangeable. The one caveat is that all HZ and 1FZ alternators I've seen have double belt pulleys. Most 15bf's also have double row pulleys yet, this one is single. I'm going to try to round up a 1FZ alternator to test fit before I pull the trigger on ordering a new one for final installation.
The last thing I have to consider on this engine prior to install is a turbo. I know that eventually I'll turbo it so, I'd like to at least do the prep in terms of an oil feed drain. I'd really like to drill and tap the block on the factory boss where the 15bft drain goes however, I really need to reassess once the oil pan comes off to see if it will be feasible to drill without introducing any metal shavings into the engine. The other route would be an oil pan drain, if I get this 15bft pan then I will likely not want to modify it for a drain. If I can't get the pan, the one currently on the engine will go under the knife for repair and modification.
 
Does Cruiser Brothers aka Valley Hybrids carry the Terrain Tamer version of copper and brass radiator you are looking for? It would save some of the shipping costs from AUS.
 
Does Cruiser Brothers aka Valley Hybrids carry the Terrain Tamer version of copper and brass radiator you are looking for? It would save some of the shipping costs from AUS.
unfortunately, not.
 
Well I'm glad I did a trial fit before buying a new 1FZ alternator. While the housing fits like my research had concluded, the double row pulley can not be swapped out for a single row one due to having a larger shaft diameter.


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My order for a new venturi was cancelled yesterday due to the part being discontinued. The 15bft oil pan order was placed on a delayed status due to no stock, I suspect it will be cancelled as well. On a positive note, I did find an alternator that fits the single row setup 15bf. I wasn't happy with the auto parts store brand so a reman Denso unit is on order.
 
i use this place for factory parts and good prices
Thank you Jim I'll place an order and see what happens.
 
No dice on the radiator above. The link although shows a bj42, redirects to 16400-49356 which is actually a 2f radiator. The 3b one is no longer available.


I picked up the flywheel from resurfacing today.

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Also got the trans isolators. I usually only buy OEM parts when they are available but skimped out on these. I'll actually only use one of them and still not sure which (depending on which cross member I use) also these don't really see any torque so aftermarket will do. They were also only $30 bucks or so a piece while toyota ones are triple digits.

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I have this 3 piece cross member that was in the BJ40 and uses the early isolator but I really want the 4 plus one which will use the later mount.

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New 12 volt 70 amp alternator arrived and fits well. It's not a ton of amps but I believe the 3b and 2f one was only 40 amps so upgrade either way. It's a 3rz alternator, all I had to do was swap the pulley. Nice piece of mind that it is such a cheap and common unit compared to the vacuum pump models the early 3B's had.

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You can see in the photo the body is slightly different in that the center mass is slightly right of the mounting points while on the new one it is a bit left or more so on center.
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The only issue or possible issue is if the belt is too short you don't get the full sweep of adjustment before the housing touches the alternator mount on the block.

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Again not really an issue considering the amount of available adjustment on the upper mount.
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Part number for reference
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With the flywheel here I need to get a clutch ordered but not really sure what to get.
The original Dyna clutch fits the aluminum 3b bell housing however, I don't have the throwout bearing to make sure it fits the land cruiser clutch fork. The other option is to get a 3bii or 13bt clutch kit but, I suspect it may be a bit smaller than what my flywheel will accept. I guess the sure bet would probably be to pull this clutch on this 3bii and see how it fits my Dyna flywheel.

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The only issue or possible issue is if the belt is too short you don't get the full sweep of adjustment before the housing touches the alternator mount on the block.
You actually have the same position of the pully as with the original one, you are missing some space on the outher side when your belt is longer.
 
I did a bit of work on the thermo housing over the last few days and got it buttoned up this evening.
Since the 40 radiator is higher than this housing there is no need for a radiator cap on it. The 3b in my 40 currently has this same setup and I just tee'd the hoses of the two together. Since radiator caps can fail it just leaves and second point of potential failure so I decided to delete this one.

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1/2 NPT tap is a perfect fit for the i.d.
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I had to put the flap disk to it to get the steel nipple out.
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Once i installed one stainless fitting my OCD kicked in and I had to replace the new factory plug I'd installed on the lower housing earlier. I also orderd m12x1.5 plugs to cap the other two temp sensor holes that will not be utilized as well and installed a new toyota temp sensor for the gauge in the dash.

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This venturi was damaged when the Dyna this engine came out crashed. I tried ordering a replacement but they are discontinued from Toyota, Hino, and Diahatsu. I tried ordering one from the middle East, Japan, and Singapore bit eventually all orderd got cancelled and I gave up. I took this one apart to asses the damage.

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Aside from the housing damage I found the throttle plate shaft to be bent.

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I got it in the vapor hone and cleaned up for some repairs.

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The broken off boss generally holds a barb that vents the PCV system. If this engine gets turbocharged the barb needs to be plugged off anyway.

I did find this used venturi in Thailand but the seller wants $300 USD and another $180 to ship it. I presume the assumption is that all Americans are dumb and have too much money so I had a hard time justifying that purchase.
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