Builds RockGoat Version 3RZ (1 Viewer)

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The Detroit IS locked normally. It is supposed to UNLOCK with a differential in speed.

I have run Detroit's but I have Aussie lockers now. Basically the same operation. I have them front and rear. They click and sometimes they bang. Just how it is.

My shoulders are tired after a long day of wheeling. The rear pushes. I deal with it because it's what I have.

So I can say that you will definitely feel the extra steering effort required.

Edit; I didn't mean to come across negative. You will definitely have good traction. You just won't be able to unlock it for easy steering effort.

Also, I have heard all the horror stories about their operation in the snow. I have only wheeled with them in the snow a few times and I was worried on the off camber sections. I had no trouble and I had friends with ARB's and electric lockers that did but, only because they turned them off and had wheels spinning. This was off road so I can't speak to on highway in the snow. Either way, you have to adjust to the conditions with the components you have.

I'm enjoying your build. I never really followed a 3RZ build or driven one so I'm anxious to see your progress.
 
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About your bearing cup being loose, I'm guessing you need to either replace the ball, the housing or some machine work for a proper repair. I have seen products like bearing mount and others work in certain applications. They usually have a loose fit but not a clunky loose fit so I don't know if something like that would work with the load that bearing sees.

Edit again: It was common practice at the shop I worked at to peen the bearing cup bores with a center punch to tighten the fit. Add some Bearing mount and its not coming out easy. It was mainly on large antique Cat equipment when new or good used parts were not available. It was also authorized by the customer.
 
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I’ve had Detroits in two trucks. They were sketchy as hell in the rain and undriveable in the snow.
I just put an eLocker in the rear and an Aussie in the front of my ‘84. Last weekend was the first time on the trail and, while a selectable upfront would’ve been ideal, it was still pretty damn great.
 
I ran this detroit in the rear around the street all fall and winter and ran it at KOH this year. As a locker, I like it a lot. I never really get “clicking or banging” from the locking mechanism unless I hammer the throttle in a tight corner on pavement.

What does bother me is the damn 1/3 of a rotation the drive shaft has to make before ANY power is transmitted to the axle shafts. Basically, for every shift, if I don’t really ride the clutch to smooth out when it bites then it bangs everytime the driveshaft loads and unloads.

I think deep down I know that it annoys me too much and I should just get a high pinion ARB for the front and throw the front ARB in the rear. I really don’t want to pay for that right now, so still considering swapping the two diffs to put the Detroit up front. I’d honestly rather throw my welded rear back in than drive the detroit rear on the street… heh.

The spare housing knuckle ball issue is a bummer.
 
It sounds like it's not working properly the way you describe it. It should be normally locked all the time. It should only unlock when there is a difference in rotation speed as in a turn.

I typically coast around a turn on the street or at least ease off the throttle. When you use hard throttle around a turn on the street it's fighting itself. The throttle is keeping it engaged and the difference in wheel speed around the turn is trying to unlock one side. Eventually you get the bang.

If you hate it that much sell it and get something you really want for your build.
 
aztoyman said:
If you hate it that much sell it and get something you really want for your build.
Click to expand...
The lash between coast and drive really does bother me. I am kind of just bitching enough so I can justify buying a high pinion ARB for the front and swapping my front ARB to the rear. But $2k while in the middle of a swap is tough to swallow.

Anyways, got the 22re pulled this morning.
56691C71-B098-48BB-BDB0-00B853217CEF.jpeg


Here’s the state of the engine bay. Wash and removing clutter such as PS reservoir is next. I have some Eastwood Rust Encapsulator Plus paint on the way to my house. I’ll paint what I can of the frame while I have access.
E6719368-484C-4190-9989-9E8E107E8C9A.jpeg
 
Expensive week.

Dropped the 3RZ flywheel off at the machine shop for resurfacing.

Bought:
- Aisin 3RZ clutch kit
- Aisin clutch slave cylinder
- Clutch fork boot
- Marlin W-56B short throw shifter
- found some pink top injectors locally that I sent to RC Fuel Injection for rework
- EZ Up so I’m not working in the Sahara of my side yard

Started cleaning the engine bay
7BD2D7D9-F976-45DE-A68E-86C7453CE16A.jpeg


Found more nasty work by someone before me on the shock hoops. This is on the list to rework the welds.

0852FFD2-1BEA-4E42-A7E4-EA0B23552A66.jpeg


Also found the common yota frame crack - vertical crack looks due to a cold weld by someone prior to me. Same crack was present on the driver side. I rewelded that one when doing the steering box relocation. The top crack looks like through factory frame section.

Either way, both will get cleaned up and glued up before I paint what I can of chassis.
029B2407-0F9D-4912-BAAE-451987022AFF.jpeg
 
California problems:
My donor truck had the cat stolen off it before I got it. If anyone has a 95-99 single cat they want to get rid of, shoot me a PM.

Ordered LCE 50 state legal headers and ToyOnlySwaps engine mounts.

Hoping to have the engine back from the shop this week.
 
RichardSkinner said:
California problems:
My donor truck had the cat stolen off it before I got it. If anyone has a 95-99 single cat they want to get rid of, shoot me a PM.

Ordered LCE 50 state legal headers and ToyOnlySwaps engine mounts.

Hoping to have the engine back from the shop this week.
Click to expand...
I'm not sure that the LCE header will fit in that space. Toyota changed the cast manifold to a mini header in 2000 or 2001 so you have that option if it doesn't work out.
Exhaust Manifold, 17141-75080
Exhaust Heat Shield, 17167-75100
 
Big day - I pick up engine from the shop later this afternoon and a bunch of goodies arrived.

I have to give a shout out to RC Injection. Excellent service. One of my injectors ohmed out of spec. They had another they just gave me to rebuild free of charge. 🤘 numbers in the build sheet are interesting. Definitely glad I had them reworked.
599AAA15-6903-46C2-A59C-39B0027F5AE6.jpeg

2ABE3F08-74E3-4C96-AA59-5FCCCEDEDCA8.jpeg


A new clutch is a beautiful thing.
E80E2D40-11C6-4970-BC82-8BFB138F8201.jpeg


And ToyOnlySwaps motor mounts came in and were sprayed in my peasant booth.
0B6F3088-126A-4079-97D5-4A70301FDAE1.jpeg
 
I was going to go OEM Toyota mounts, but considering more rigid versions like ruffstuffs version of the bomb proof mounts
www.ruffstuffspecialties.com

Toyota 22R/22RE Motor Mounts

Check out the deal on Toyota 22R/22RE Motor Mounts at RuffStuff Specialties
www.ruffstuffspecialties.com www.ruffstuffspecialties.com

Thoughts/experience? I’m doing balance shaft delete. I don’t mind vibes as long as it isn’t detrimental. But I’m more so concerned with the propensity to rip OEM mounts with more horsepower and being that I have dual cases and 4.7 gears.
 
RichardSkinner said:
I was going to go OEM Toyota mounts, but considering more rigid versions like ruffstuffs version of the bomb proof mounts
www.ruffstuffspecialties.com

Toyota 22R/22RE Motor Mounts

Check out the deal on Toyota 22R/22RE Motor Mounts at RuffStuff Specialties
www.ruffstuffspecialties.com www.ruffstuffspecialties.com

Thoughts/experience? I’m doing balance shaft delete. I don’t mind vibes as long as it isn’t detrimental. But I’m more so concerned with the propensity to rip OEM mounts with more horsepower and being that I have dual cases and 4.7 gears.
Click to expand...
I had these on my 22re for 1 day. couldn't stand it. i would say these are more for a dedicated crawler although I still wouldn't run them on one. you will feel everything
 
liveoak said:
I had these on my 22re for 1 day. couldn't stand it. i would say these are more for a dedicated crawler although I still wouldn't run them on one. you will feel everything
Click to expand...
Thanks for the feed back. I had made a FB post to try to get more feedback and what you just said was echoed by multiple people. IIRC, you left balance shafts in tact also, so I’d be really getting punished.

From the FB post, a guy had recommended these TH350 mounts. He claimed they were harder than OEM mounts, but still give some dampening. I’m giving it a shot. They’re supposed to bolt right up without any drilling. If I don’t like them I may eventually try to Marlin mod or whatever where you drill through OEM mounts.

Energy Suspension 3.1108R Transmission Mount for GM https://a.co/d/h3yIFeL
 
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