Rock Warrior Lug question (2 Viewers)

[DPA200]

I have 17" rock warrior's on my 200. Currently, I have some generic lug nuts that came with the wheels. I had numerous people tell me it is important to use the proper lug nuts with the conical washer seat to not damage the wheels. So i finally got a set of the Mcgard ones as i wanted black to match my powdercoated wheels. Expensive little lug nuts i must say. These are what i got from amazon :

McGard 65315BK Chrome/Black Cone Seat Spline Drive Lug Nut Set.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007QB5A56/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

So, maybe a dumb question, but is it very important to tighten these to the correct torque? I think i saw somewhere in the rock warrior documentation that 97 ft-lbf was what was spec'd. I don't actually own a torque wrench so just wanted to see how important this is, and general advice on install. Do i need to jack the truck up, hand tighten 1st, then lower the truck and finish tightening? Any advice appreciated. Thanks

 

[kevinfoutch]

Better safe than sorry - Precision Instruments PREC3FR250F Silver 1/2" Drive Split Beam Torque Wrench with Flex Head https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002XMSFIM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Q8K-AbQW6Y5XY

(Don't cheap out on this tool)

I hand tighten while the wheel is in the air. Lower and while on the ground under vehicle's weight I would tighten to spec.

Edit: tighten with torque wrench in an alternating star pattern. Google Image Result for http://www.urdreamgarage.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/Lug-nut-order.jpg

 

[mcgaskins]

There’s only one thing connecting your truck to the road and that’s the wheels/tires, so I’d say it’s pretty important to torque to spec. Like Kevin said, make sure you tighten in a star pattern and start the lugs by hand to avoid cross threading. Also check your torque again after 100 miles of driving, and check them before any big trips and after off road excursions. You can get a good Husky torque wrench at Home Depot for about $80.

 

[Chocolate]

If you're looking to spend a little less, I am happy with my $35 Tekton Torque wrench from Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C5ZL0RU

 

[Chocolate]

These adapters are a must have also

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NQ4PBG

 

[Chocolate]

T30 sockets for your impact wrench if working on the bead ring.
Husky T30 Torx 3/8 in. Drive Bit Socket-H3DHBST30 - The Home Depot
$2 at Home Despot

 

[kevinfoutch]

If you're looking to spend a little less, I am happy with my $35 Tekton Torque wrench from Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C5ZL0RU

I had this wrench but it was terribly mis-calibrated. It ended up letting me snap off an M10 bolt head when I was installing my ARB skids. Thankfully nothing serious but that's when I decided to invest in a reliable torque wrench.

Hopefully my experience is in the minority, but I am overly cautious especially on critical items like lug nuts.

 

[tominboise]

I hand tighten while the wheel is in the air. Lower and while on the ground under vehicle's weight I would tighten to spec.

I hand tighten while the wheel is in the air. Then I will use a 4X4 block to chock the wheel (while it is in the air) and torque the nuts. If I don't have a block, I drop the wheel only until the tire is touching the ground enough to react the torque. In other words, I like to have the lug nuts torqued up before I put the weight of the vehicle on it. OCD maybe, but that's the way I do it.

You need a torque wrench. But if you are somewhere and have a flat, most people don't carry a torque wrench. So it's important to use a consistent amount of torque on each of the lug nuts. Be advised that if you have put antiseize or grease on your threads, that the final torque value used should be reduced, by up to 20%.

 

[DPA200]

Ok well I’ve never regretted a quality tool purchase, and it sounds like I’ll need this for other future upgrades as well. Any other suggestions / links for a specific high quality torque wrench?

 

[DPA200]

Better safe than sorry - Precision Instruments PREC3FR250F Silver 1/2" Drive Split Beam Torque Wrench with Flex Head https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002XMSFIM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Q8K-AbQW6Y5XY

(Don't cheap out on this tool)

I hand tighten while the wheel is in the air. Lower and while on the ground under vehicle's weight I would tighten to spec.

Edit: tighten with torque wrench in an alternating star pattern. Google Image Result for http://www.urdreamgarage.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/Lug-nut-order.jpg

Any other wrench suggestions? The amazon link says 1-2 months for shipping. I saw these 2 at home depot last night not sure exactly what features I'm looking for:

Husky 50-250 ft. lbs. 1/2 in. Drive Torque Wrench-H2DTWA - The Home Depot

Husky 1/2 in. Click Torque Wrench-H2DTW - The Home Depot

Other question, am i correct that the spec'd torque for Rock Warrior's is indeed 97 ft-lbf ? This is the documentation i saw it on:

https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/ins...er TRD Alloy Wheel PTR45-34070-34120 IssF.pdf

 

[KLF]

50-250 is too high for this. Generally torque wrenches are calibrated so they are the most accurate at mid--range. A 25-150 is a good range. I have an old Craftsman one that I keep in one of my drawers that I keep calibrated.

Yes 97 ft-lbs is correct, it's also in the owner's manual and throughout the service manual. Never heard of adding 20% for anti-sieze, never done that before.

 

[lxid]

I bought a CDI wrench recently and it seems really solid.

https://www.amazon.com/CDI-1002MFRM...395974&sr=8-3&keywords=cdi+torque+wrench&th=1

 

[bloc]

Yes 97 ft-lbs is correct, it's also in the owner's manual and throughout the service manual. Never heard of adding 20% for anti-sieze, never done that before.

REDUCE by 20%. This is because it lubricates the threads, making the nut easier to turn, increasing the clamping force for a given tightening torque.

Personally anti-seize will never get anywhere near the lugs on any of my vehicles. I’d kinda rather them stay on the vehicle, and if the stud or nut is galling or otherwise going bad it is getting replaced.

Also 97 for stock washer-type lugs on stock wheels doesn’t necessarily translate to the same setting for RWs. I remember seeing a detailed spec sheet for them but don’t have it handy.

Good call on the torque wrench range though.

 

[BVCOTaco]

I bought a CDI wrench recently and it seems really solid.

https://www.amazon.com/CDI-1002MFRMH-8-Inch-Handle-100-Ft-lbs/dp/B002LA1EDO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1526395974&sr=8-3&keywords=cdi+torque+wrench&th=1

I will second this torque wrench as well. I went through 2 crappy Craftsman wrenches and finally bought a quality one. It came from Amazon with calibration certificates. It has been great now for a couple of years. My last Craftsman one lasted less than a year. Now I use it as a breaker bar!

 

[Taco2Cruiser]

I will second this torque wrench as well. I went through 2 crappy Craftsman wrenches and finally bought a quality one. It came from Amazon with calibration certificates. It has been great now for a couple of years. My last Craftsman one lasted less than a year. Now I use it as a breaker bar!

I’ll third this torque wrench. CDI makes a very accurate wrench for the price.

I will also add that I have 3 high end Snap-on torque wrenches that are around $1500 each. Never had fastener that I torqued with these higher end wrenches comes loose... ever.

But I do dabble in precision.

 

[linuxgod]

If you're looking to spend a little less, I am happy with my $35 Tekton Torque wrench from Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C5ZL0RU

I'll second that. However if you ever plan on breaking bigger bolts like the axle hub nut I'd go with a 20-250# one. I needed a wrench that went to 250# so now I have both, though I only carry the 20-250 when traveling.

Edit: I know torque wrenches are more accurate in the middle of the range, but it's typically a few percentage off. Given most shops end up air wrenching lugs down I seriously doubt there's a real world difference between 97# and 100#

 

[KLF]

REDUCE by 20%. This is because it lubricates the threads, making the nut easier to turn, increasing the clamping force for a given tightening torque.

Geez I mis-read that one.

Still not doin' it. Nope. Been using anti-sieze on wheel studs for... wow almost 40 years now. Until this truck, I take everything cars and trucks to 90 ft-lbs.

I have one of these nifty torque meters:

https://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-9...&qid=1526402323&sr=8-10&keywords=torque+meter

Had it checked a couple years ago and the shop was surprised at how dead-on accurate it was with their fancy calibrator. I use it to check the shop wrenches occasionally.

 

[Taco2Cruiser]

To add to @bloc comment. I learned this when building massive hot rod motors when I was a kid. Now it’s definetly it as simple a always X% reduction, but below is a good thread to start learning about.

Anti-seize and over torquing bolts

 

[DPA200]

I’ll third this torque wrench. CDI makes a very accurate wrench for the price.

I will also add that I have 3 high end Snap-on torque wrenches that are around $1500 each. Never had fastener that I torqued with these higher end wrenches comes loose... ever.

But I do dabble in precision.

I’ll third this torque wrench. CDI makes a very accurate wrench for the price.

I will also add that I have 3 high end Snap-on torque wrenches that are around $1500 each. Never had fastener that I torqued with these higher end wrenches comes loose... ever.

But I do dabble in precision.

So i stopped at Lowes this morning and made a quick decision and bought this:

Shop Kobalt 1/2-in Drive 50-ft lb to 250-ft lb Click Torque Wrench at Lowes.com

The reviews on Lowes page are very good and numerous people say its better than Craftsman. It was around $90, no certificate comes with it. Now since then that voice in my head is saying especially with tools that its a better idea to buy higher quality once than several cheap ones that dont last.

Reading the amazon reviews on the CDI ones and they really make me think its worth the extra $$ to get that for the long run. From what i hear they are owned by snap-on and the wrench is identical besides the head. So, back to Lowes to return this Kobalt i think. As far as the CDI goes which version would you recommend if I'm only planning on having 1:

30-250 ft.lbs - $200
20-150 ft.lbs - $170
both 1/2" drive

• the wheel lugs are rated at 97 ft-lbf
• i have BudBuilt sliders waiting to be installed - not sure torque for any of those bolts
• my next planned upgrade is BudBuilt skid plates - also not sure torque for those

thoughts?

 

[Taco2Cruiser]

Get the 30-250 CDI

Then at a later time if you get into more engine work, get a digital snap on 5-100 ft lbf

While it’s mostly true that only the head is different from Snapon to CDI, that’s what matters. But I use digital snapons and analog CDIs. You should see my 50-750 3/4” drive hub monster. Every time I use it, I instantly grow a Viking beard, and talk like Clint Eastwood.

Funny you mentioned the Husky, a month ago I checked a friends new Husky torque wrench from my best wrench, and the Husky over torqued by around 35 ft lbf.

I responded to your PM on BudBuilt slider torque and for skids, use the factory spec.