Rock Warrior Lug question

[indycole]

Just to toss in another torque wrench recommendation... Precision Instruments (Precision Instruments: The Finest Torque Wrenches). That said, I echo the CDI recommendation as I have first hand experience with Snap-On, CDI, and Precision Instruments (all are great, IMO, with CDI/Precision taking the cake in terms of value). I've had two Tekton torque wrenches and have snapped bolts with them. They're usually fine brand new but go out of adjustment after moderate use in my experience.

 

[DPA200]

Get the 30-250 CDI

Then at a later time if you get into more engine work, get a digital snap on 5-100 ft lbf

While it’s mostly true that only the head is different from Snapon to CDI, that’s what matters. But I use digital snapons and analog CDIs. You should see my 50-750 3/4” drive hub monster. Every time I use it, I instantly grow a Viking beard, and talk like Clint Eastwood.

Funny you mentioned the Husky, a month ago I checked a friends new Husky torque wrench from my best wrench, and the Husky over torqued by around 35 ft lbf.

I responded to your PM on BudBuilt slider torque and for skids, use the factory spec.

I just ordered the 30-250 Ft Lbs CDI Adjustable Torque Wrench - 2503MFRMH. Found it at on www.protorquetools.com for $50 less than amazon was selling and no tax. Thanks all for the advice

1/2" Dr 30-250 Ft Lbs / 47-332 Nm CDI Adjustable Torque Wrench - 2503MFRMH

 

[linuxgod]

You should see my 50-750 3/4” drive hub monster. Every time I use it, I instantly grow a Viking beard, and talk like Clint Eastwood.

I could've used that a few weeks ago when I assembled my trailer hitch. The 1 7/8" nut on the 1 1/4" ball called for 450 lb/ft. I ended up applying some locktite red, torquing to 250 (which is the max on my wrench), then swapping the socket to a breaker bar and leaning into it to tighten further. Even with an extra ~3' of leverage I couldn't actually move the nut any further though. Not sure if I got to 450# (or over it) but the lock washer is crushed.

 

[mcgaskins]

I could've used that a few weeks ago when I assembled my trailer hitch. The 1 7/8" nut on the 1 1/4" ball called for 450 lb/ft. I ended up applying some locktite red, torquing to 250 (which is the max on my wrench), then swapping the socket to a breaker bar and leaning into it to tighten further. Even with an extra ~3' of leverage I couldn't actually move the nut any further though. Not sure if I got to 450# (or over it) but the lock washer is crushed.

The Porsche GT3 calls for 440 ft lbs on the center lock wheel, and I wondered how many people could actually manage that without a special power tool.

 

[Markuson]

The Porsche GT3 calls for 440 ft lbs on the center lock wheel, and I wondered how many people could actually manage that without a special power tool.

Holy crap!

 

[linuxgod]

The Porsche GT3 calls for 440 ft lbs on the center lock wheel, and I wondered how many people could actually manage that without a special power tool.

You can easily torque past 440#. Leverage is your friend. You just need a really strong and really long breaker bar. I stopped on my trailer ball when I thought I was going to break the breaker bar, which was after I bent the 42" piece of cast iron pipe.

Loctite red 271 requires a stupid amount of torque to break free. I don't have a Porsche GT3 but I'm pretty confident my trailer ball ain't coming off.

 

[DPA200]

Thanks for all the great tips, i finally got around to installing my new Mcgard black lugs (correct splined with conical washer). that was my 1st time using my new CDI Torque wrench and boy was that a pleasure to use. Feels like such high quality compared to the Lowes version i returned. So not the cheapest upgrade with the lugs actually costing a little bit more than the TRD version, and having to buy a torque wrench....but i feel much better having everything at the correct torque with washers that won't damage my wheels.

 

[tominboise]

Looks awesome. Can't wait to get mine mounted up and installed.

 

[Haggis]

I'm getting ready to finally install my RW's on the 200. I currently have a set of spidertrax spacers I got from Slee on the stock wheels. Would you guys recommend I forgo the spacers with the RW's?

 

[RET2]

I'm getting ready to finally install my RW's on the 200. I currently have a set of spidertrax spacers I got from Slee on the stock wheels. Would you guys recommend I forgo the spacers with the RW's?

I run them with my RW with zero issues. They say if it's not broken why fix it? That being said another Mudder just had a wheel separation with spacers so retorque drive 25 miles and recheck torque.

 

[DPA200]

I'm getting ready to finally install my RW's on the 200. I currently have a set of spidertrax spacers I got from Slee on the stock wheels. Would you guys recommend I forgo the spacers with the RW's?

I run 34's (285/75R17) Nitto Recon Grapplers on RW's with no spacers, and no issues. Yeah I'd advise against them if you don't need the spacers.

 

[Rpreme]

I run 34's (285/75R17) Nitto Recon Grapplers on RW's with no spacers, and no issues. Yeah I'd advise against them if you don't need the spacers.

Do you have a lift with this set up? I've been trying to figure out if I can run a 285/75/17 tire with RW's and stock suspension with the 1/2" leveling spacer up front and no wheel spacers.

 

[bloc]

Do you have a lift with this set up? I've been trying to figure out if I can run a 285/75/17 tire with RW's and stock suspension with the 1/2" leveling spacer up front and no wheel spacers.

It depends a bit on the specific tire model but you’ll rub the rear and probably front of the fender liner, which is fixable. But you’ll have strong contact with the KDSS arm.

285/70r17 is the largest you can go without having to start doing other supporting mods.