Rock slider recommendations. (1 Viewer)
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Just purchased a set from Metal-Tech. They seem to have done their job. I’m not sure I would trust them to jack up my rig from but time will tell. I’ve only had them for a month and took them out once.
They had a Memorial Day sale with free shipping recently.
They had a Memorial Day sale with free shipping recently.
Road Apple
SILVER Star
White Knuckle Off Road sliders are very good. Solid, well made, kick out at the end of the sliders, and catalytic converter protection. Ordered a set recently; WKOR gave me a MUD discount. Great customer service.
white-knuckleoffroad.com
Toyota 80 Series Land Cruiser / Lexus LX450 Rock Sliders - White Knuckle Off Road Products
Includes the following features: 69" overall length maximizes coverage of the rocker from flare to flare while allowing for oversize tires or 65-1/2" overall length maximizes coverage of the rocker from flare to flare while allowing for oversize tires and front mud flap 3/16" thick x 2" x 3"...
white-knuckleoffroad.com
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Road Apple
SILVER Star
Here’s a review and install of the WKOR sliders.
www.trailchasers.net
White Knuckle OFf Road Slider Install Review
By Jose Alvarado I recently bought some rock sliders for my 1994 Land Cruiser from White Knuckle Off Road - an off-road slider company located in Apple Valley, CA. They have been in business since 2008 and have quickly made a name for themselves in the off-road industry for being a high...
www.trailchasers.net
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Thanks. I'll look into them.Here’s a review and install of the WKOR sliders.
White Knuckle OFf Road Slider Install Review
By Jose Alvarado I recently bought some rock sliders for my 1994 Land Cruiser from White Knuckle Off Road - an off-road slider company located in Apple Valley, CA. They have been in business since 2008 and have quickly made a name for themselves in the off-road industry for being a high...
I got the OPOR sliders from Metal tech, and I wish I had bought the White Knuckle Off-road sliders.
My buddy has the WKOR sliders and he got his without the kickout (flared portion to the rear). I think it looks cleaner without the kickout, and I like that his are flat rather than mine being angled up. It's mostly aesthetic, as I've beaten on my OPOR sliders and they have held up great.
I'd just suggest looking at as many options as you can in person before you decide. Seeing them in person is better than online photos, IMHO.
Good luck, there are several quality options out there.
My buddy has the WKOR sliders and he got his without the kickout (flared portion to the rear). I think it looks cleaner without the kickout, and I like that his are flat rather than mine being angled up. It's mostly aesthetic, as I've beaten on my OPOR sliders and they have held up great.
I'd just suggest looking at as many options as you can in person before you decide. Seeing them in person is better than online photos, IMHO.
Good luck, there are several quality options out there.
I just placed an order for White Knuckle sliders the other day. Not cheap by any means, but I suppose if you get the cheapest config without power coating you can probably be able to make it work.
That's about $725 + tax + shipping and you can get 5% off if you use the "mudmember18" coupon. I would finish with a couple cans of bedliner
Not doing a sales pitch lol just my own thought process. They have good customer service too; much better than some other custom fab companies I've dealt with since buying my 80.
I was never able to get sliders on my high school rig so you are already off to a great start!
That's about $725 + tax + shipping and you can get 5% off if you use the "mudmember18" coupon. I would finish with a couple cans of bedliner
Not doing a sales pitch lol just my own thought process. They have good customer service too; much better than some other custom fab companies I've dealt with since buying my 80.
I was never able to get sliders on my high school rig so you are already off to a great start!
I got the WK ones bare on Black Friday and painted them myself. So far (only two real "hits" on trail) they have held up great. The overall fitment isn't perfect--I don't really like the U-bolts around the frame as the clamping mechanism and mine have a slight angle to them--but they seeem stouter [flex less under jacking] than either the sliders I made myself 20 years ago for a then-new Xterra or the ones I bought for my Tacoma from a popular Taco vendor. Also, I doubt it matters for you but the WK ones I got offset for my 1" BL which keeps them tucked up really nicely, I've been quite impressed at what I've been able to come down off of on trail without contact (except for the cat skids, which definitely hit a lot.)
1973Guppie
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I have absolutely clobbered my metaltech sliders and they just keep going.
ACTUAL metaltech or the OPOR ones?
Get the actual MT. Mine took all the lickings.
That’s what I have on mine and they’ve been rockstars. The OPOR, I think, is all they sell now but they Brand them as MT sliders.
Before people can make reasonable recommendations, the question of why you are putting them on comes to mind. Are you running trails and want body armor to help prevent body damage? Do you like the look and that is the main concern? I ask because the two items are not necessarily related. I also suggest if you get them for wheeling and will be bashing the heck out of them, do not powder coat them but instead just paint them. For looks, powder coating is awesome.
I have OPOR ones from MetalTech on my rigs. They have really taken a beating and hold up well. Beefy.
I have OPOR ones from MetalTech on my rigs. They have really taken a beating and hold up well. Beefy.
I highly recommend building your own, its a fun intensive project! Take a welding class at your school or local college and ask to do this as a side project! Cost is much cheaper as well. I built 2 sets, one for a 97 one for a 94. I believe it was right around $440 for 1 set (paint not included). It could of been cheaper but I gave the guy bending the kickout pipes extra (he knocked them out in 2 hours same day!). Then I had to buy 20 ft sticks so ended up with 40 ft of metal when I only around needed 24 ft to do both.
breakdown:
$450 for all the metal 2 - 2x3x3/16, 2 - 1-3/4 DOM w/.120 wall, 1 - 2x2x3/16, 1 1/4"x3", 1 3/8"x3", 1 1/8"x3" (extra just in case)
$200 to bend the 4 kickouts (outsourced to a local company)
$160 welding consumables (about 10 lbs of wire, 1 tank of size 4 mix, few cuttoffs, grinding wheels)
$70 for the 3/8" u-bolts (mcmaster sourced, grade 2 which is why they are doubled up)
Labor cost freeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee lol, i didn't have anything better to do anyways.
The advantage of building your own is they can be customized. I used WKOR sliders as reference for design. I wanted the slider to stick out further and have a larger kickout than the WKOR sliders had. The front is a 4" radius bend and the kickout is a 6" radius bend. I also customized the angle and placement of them. Then the total length is longer than most purchasable ones as well. I believe the total length is 71-3/4". This still leaves about 1" of unprotected rocker between the slider on each side before the wheel well. By far the hardest part is getting the compound cuts right for the frame to slider support. I recommend using 1.5x1.5 wood pieces to trial fit your cuts before cutting the metal 2x2s.
I can jack the vehicle up with on them and they don't flex at all. Even with the jack on the end away from the frame supports. I kind of wished I went with 1/8" instead of 3/16" because man they are beefy!
Instead of U-bolts you could create a U out of metal and use a bolt at the top. I am okay with the u-bolts though. Even though the u bolts are 3/8" compared to some other slider manufacturers larger diameter ones, the proof load of each bolt and tensile strength is very good. 4250 lbs proof load and 5750 min lb tensile strength. They are also super easy to source. I had a difficult time trying to source reasonably priced ones Mcmaster car rates them at 1075 lb capacity. This is because the application is for hanging stuff architecturally so there is likely a built in safety factor!
breakdown:
$450 for all the metal 2 - 2x3x3/16, 2 - 1-3/4 DOM w/.120 wall, 1 - 2x2x3/16, 1 1/4"x3", 1 3/8"x3", 1 1/8"x3" (extra just in case)
$200 to bend the 4 kickouts (outsourced to a local company)
$160 welding consumables (about 10 lbs of wire, 1 tank of size 4 mix, few cuttoffs, grinding wheels)
$70 for the 3/8" u-bolts (mcmaster sourced, grade 2 which is why they are doubled up)
Labor cost freeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee lol, i didn't have anything better to do anyways.
The advantage of building your own is they can be customized. I used WKOR sliders as reference for design. I wanted the slider to stick out further and have a larger kickout than the WKOR sliders had. The front is a 4" radius bend and the kickout is a 6" radius bend. I also customized the angle and placement of them. Then the total length is longer than most purchasable ones as well. I believe the total length is 71-3/4". This still leaves about 1" of unprotected rocker between the slider on each side before the wheel well. By far the hardest part is getting the compound cuts right for the frame to slider support. I recommend using 1.5x1.5 wood pieces to trial fit your cuts before cutting the metal 2x2s.
I can jack the vehicle up with on them and they don't flex at all. Even with the jack on the end away from the frame supports. I kind of wished I went with 1/8" instead of 3/16" because man they are beefy!
Instead of U-bolts you could create a U out of metal and use a bolt at the top. I am okay with the u-bolts though. Even though the u bolts are 3/8" compared to some other slider manufacturers larger diameter ones, the proof load of each bolt and tensile strength is very good. 4250 lbs proof load and 5750 min lb tensile strength. They are also super easy to source. I had a difficult time trying to source reasonably priced ones Mcmaster car rates them at 1075 lb capacity. This is because the application is for hanging stuff architecturally so there is likely a built in safety factor!
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I don’t want to high-Jack the thread are the 4 holes that most sliders bolt to near the cats all the same size and thread?
I only put in two of the supplied screws on the bottom holes, not the top ones.
Am I a goof and didn’t see alternatively sized ones supplied, maybe...
I only put in two of the supplied screws on the bottom holes, not the top ones.
Am I a goof and didn’t see alternatively sized ones supplied, maybe...
On my ‘97 yes all four were the same. M6ish I think?
They are all the same size (can confirm 94 is same as 97). Probably 20 years of crud in them though. They likely need cleaned out, that was the case for me. I think they were M8x1.25.
I’ll get some longer versions and see if that’s the ticket. Thanks guys!
They are M8 x 1.25. I had a run a tap through mine to make them usable.
I went with WKOR with the 10 degree offset. Then modified them with motocross style boot grips on top.
Love them.
I went with WKOR with the 10 degree offset. Then modified them with motocross style boot grips on top.
Love them.
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Much cheaper option:
DIY DOM Rock sliders 69"
This is an in between option and gets you started without welding the whole thing up yourself, but fabrication will be needed to position these appropriately and clear everything.
DIY DOM Rock sliders 69"
DIY DOM Rock sliders 69" | eBay
DOM Rock Slider Kit from XO FAB. This is a universal kit that works on many applications. CNC bent in the USA from 1 3/4" x. 120 DOM tubing. Sliders are bent & notched. You must fit and weld prior to install.
www.ebay.com
This is an in between option and gets you started without welding the whole thing up yourself, but fabrication will be needed to position these appropriately and clear everything.
