jfz80
Cruisin’
Sexy 
Rice's 1FZ-FE rebuild Thread (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Rice
- Start date
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I wasn't able to see a crack at the #4 freeze plug... But when I look for cracks on metallic structure, at work, there is bright green dye penetrant that has soaked in so it's obvious. I don't doubt it's there, but for education sake, is it on the lower side of the plug? Also, was there a chance that your original engine (Engine #0?) could have been rebuilt? I only ask because it seems like the issues you mentioned could be fixed by boring the cylinders... I'm just trying to absorb the knowledge since I have 300K on my 1FZ. 
- Thread starter
- #23
I wasn't able to see a crack at the #4 freeze plug... But when I look for cracks on metallic structure, at work, there is bright green dye penetrant that has soaked in so it's obvious. I don't doubt it's there, but for education sake, is it on the lower side of the plug? Also, was there a chance that your original engine (Engine #0?) could have been rebuilt? I only ask because it seems like the issues you mentioned could be fixed by boring the cylinders... I'm just trying to absorb the knowledge since I have 300K on my 1FZ.
Ahh, you count like an engineer.
You are correct regarding crack on engine 1. I saw a coolant trail below the freeze plug and dismissed it as a bad plug that would be replaced. It was only after the machine shop magnafluxed the block the crack was revealed. Then my internal debate of weld it vs junk it played out ... not interested in a welded block.
Yes ... the engine in the 80 now is completely rebuildable. A large part of me wanted this because I know this motor, but did not want the large down time. It will make a great motor for someone and should not have any surprises.
It is important for whoever gets the old engine to know ... if the knock is a wrist pin then someone can hone the cylinder, toss in a new piston with rings and it's ready. However if the issue is piston slap you're into it for a lot more money since it will have to be bored and get new pistons.
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NCFJ
Supporting Vendor
Blocks are so beautiful in raw form 
Rice, that second coffe table that you pick up in Ashville, I will take it from your hands. You dont have to be collecting things that no one wants. Please dont weld anything to it I have other plans for it.
Epic.
You should consider compound turbos. If Ben said not to worry, might as well go for 50+ psi
You should consider compound turbos. If Ben said not to worry, might as well go for 50+ psi
- Thread starter
- #29
Epic.
You should consider compound turbos. If Ben said not to worry, might as well go for 50+ psi
50 PSI comes to about 700 HP. That would put me just a couple horses over moonshine.
Fun to dream and I do have engine management plans for down the road but will be holding to less than 10 for a while.
The coolest thing in the pictures so far is the one of Ben at lunch. The fact that not only does he have his name on his shirt, but its an old school white mechanic's shirt. The best engine builders always wore white shirts, not the dingy bluish/grey ones that hide a lot of grease. you can tell from that alone that he takes pride in his workmanship....not just his work.
Great build Rice, keep the info coming.
Great build Rice, keep the info coming.
- Thread starter
- #32
So, will Ben be taking on more Japanese iron, since its sooo much easier to work on than the murican stuff???
This is a question I was sure to ask before leaving. Ben would not be opposed to another 1FZ, however, there would likely be some conditions. He still does engines for several race teams so it can't be during the busy season and you would need to figure a way to bring him an already cleaned block to keep him from having to ship another one off.
Of course you can also land some pretty nice GM steel if you want to go that route. A tall deck Dart block with a 4.165 bore and 4.125 stroke comes to 450 cubic inches but is a small block. Imagine a calm smooth idle sleeper motor with 500 ft lb of torque at 2000 rpm. All for not much more than a 1FZ.
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- Thread starter
- #33
Next task ....
Chase all the threads on the block and then start cleaning.
I love the look of aluminum but sure wish there was an elegant chemical way to get it clean. just takes time, elbow grease, and beer.
Also time for timing gear, chain tensioner, and chain damper. This is not just Ben's first time doing a 1FZ, it is also mine. It's all been Chevy, Ford, and a couple Pontiacs and Oldsmobiles until now. I have to say getting the valve timing right on this motor is a breeze compared to a Chevy.
You'll notice head studs which I will be using because of the planned boost but they are not permanent yet
While you're at it be sure not to forget the oil squirters ... You're looking at the bottom of the piston in this pic.
Random bottom end shot ....
Chase all the threads on the block and then start cleaning.
I love the look of aluminum but sure wish there was an elegant chemical way to get it clean. just takes time, elbow grease, and beer.
Also time for timing gear, chain tensioner, and chain damper. This is not just Ben's first time doing a 1FZ, it is also mine. It's all been Chevy, Ford, and a couple Pontiacs and Oldsmobiles until now. I have to say getting the valve timing right on this motor is a breeze compared to a Chevy.
You'll notice head studs which I will be using because of the planned boost but they are not permanent yet
While you're at it be sure not to forget the oil squirters ... You're looking at the bottom of the piston in this pic.
Random bottom end shot ....
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lumbee1
Native American
I would love to come see this buildup in person!
David70FJ40
Older Than Most
Are the studs a stock item or did you change from head bolts? If you changed, is there a specific reason for that change?
- Thread starter
- #38
Not stock. These are ARP studs which, in this case, are made for a Toyota Supra. Studs offer an increased and more even clamping force than bolts which is important for taking good care of the head gasket, especially in boosted applications.
The main issue is an increase in torque efficiency and you get to assemble the engine and go through the torque sequence with all threads already fully engaged .... not so with bolts.
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David70FJ40
Older Than Most
Makes a lot of sense. Thanks. Would that be beneficial on my F engine if a rebuild in the future is required?
- Thread starter
- #40
Not really. The only time I would recommend studs for a stock build would be if you had an aluminum block and wanted to prevent thread galling. Otherwise it's just another $100 added to the bill. DO, however, be sure to use ARP ultra-torque assembly lube on the head bolts (or on any high torque assembly)
